Nestled in Northern Italy’s alpine region, Lake Maggiore captured my heart the moment I first glimpsed its shimmering blue waters framed by majestic mountains. Last summer, I spent a magical day island-hopping across this elegant lake, discovering hidden gems that many travelers overlook when rushing between more famous Italian destinations. The ferry day pass offered incredible value, allowing me to explore all three Borromean Islands at my own pace while enjoying breathtaking views of colorful shoreline villages and lush gardens.
My journey began in the charming town of Stresa, where I boarded a boat to Isola Bella, home to a stunning baroque palace and terraced gardens that seem to float on the water. The island’s Mediterranean atmosphere, with exotic plants and white peacocks roaming freely, felt worlds away from the alpine setting surrounding the lake.
Many visitors stick to just one island, but I found that hopping between all three gave me a much richer understanding of Lake Maggiore’s unique character.
What makes Lake Maggiore truly special is how it blends Italian and Swiss cultures in one breathtaking setting. As I sailed between islands, I noticed how the architecture, food, and even the atmosphere shifted subtly from one spot to the next. This northern Italian gem offers a perfect alternative to the more crowded lakes in the region, with equally stunning scenery but a more relaxed, authentic feel that I haven’t found anywhere else in Italy’s lake district.
Planning Your Trip to Lake Maggiore
Lake Maggiore offers visitors a perfect blend of natural beauty, elegant villas, and charming towns. Getting your timing right and knowing how to reach this stunning destination will help you make the most of your island-hopping adventure.
Best Time to Visit
I’ve found May through September to be ideal for visiting Lake Maggiore. Summer months (June-August) bring warm temperatures perfect for boat trips and swimming, though this is also peak tourist season. During my last visit in July, temperatures hovered around 80°F (27°C), ideal for exploring the Borromean Islands.
Spring (April-May) and fall (September-October) offer milder weather with fewer crowds. The gardens on Isola Bella and Isola Madre are particularly stunning in spring when the azaleas and rhododendrons bloom.
Winter visits from November to March are quieter, with some attractions and boat services operating on reduced schedules. However, the peaceful atmosphere and snow-capped Alpine views have their own special charm.
How to Get There
I reached Lake Maggiore most easily by flying into Milan, which has two international airports (Malpensa and Linate). From Milan, I took a direct train to Stresa, the main gateway to the lake, in just over an hour.
Other options include:
- By car: Rent a vehicle in Milan for flexibility to explore both the Italian and Swiss sides of the lake
- By train: Regular services connect Milan, Como, and other major cities to lakeside towns like Stresa and Baveno
- From Switzerland: If you’re coming from Ticino, regular buses and trains connect Swiss towns to the lake
Stresa makes an excellent base, with frequent ferry connections to the Borromean Islands and other lakeside destinations. I found the hop-on-hop-off boat service particularly convenient for island-hopping without sticking to rigid schedules.
Exploring the Borromean Islands
The jewels of Lake Maggiore are undoubtedly the Borromean Islands, a trio of islands owned by the aristocratic Borromeo family for centuries. These magnificent islands each offer something unique – from baroque palaces and formal gardens to rustic fishing villages.
Isola Bella’s Palatial Charm
Stepping onto Isola Bella felt like entering a dream. The magnificent Palazzo Borromeo dominates the tiny island, a baroque masterpiece that took nearly 400 years to complete. I was awestruck by the state rooms with their ornate furnishings and priceless artworks.
The palace’s lower floor houses a remarkable grotto, decorated with black and white pebbles and shells. It provided a cool retreat during summer heat for the Borromeo family.
What truly captivated me were the terraced gardens rising in tiers behind the palace. These meticulously manicured gardens feature:
- White peacocks roaming freely
- Ten terraced levels decorated with statues
- The Teatro Massimo, a spectacular garden theater
The views across Lake Maggiore from the upper terraces were simply breathtaking.
The Botanical Eden of Isola Madre
Isola Madre offered a completely different experience from its sister island. While Isola Bella is formal and theatrical, Madre feels like a natural paradise. The entire island serves as a botanical garden with plants from around the world.
The English-style gardens bloom with rare flowers and exotic plants. I wandered through groves of citrus trees, bamboo forests, and palm collections. The star attraction is the 200-year-old Kashmir cypress tree that survived a devastating tornado in 2006.
The island’s palazzo contains fascinating puppet theaters and dollhouses from the 17th-19th centuries. The most magical residents, though, are the colorful pheasants and peacocks that wander freely through the gardens.
My morning exploring these lush grounds felt like stepping into a living painting.
Fishermen’s Tales on Isola dei Pescatori
Unlike its grand neighbors, Isola dei Pescatori (Fishermen’s Island) remains delightfully authentic. This is the only permanently inhabited island among the Borromeans, home to about 50 residents.
I strolled narrow cobblestone lanes lined with humble fishing cottages, many now converted to charming restaurants and shops. The island’s perimeter measures just 350 meters, making it perfect for a leisurely walk.
For lunch, I enjoyed freshly caught lake fish at a waterfront trattoria. The island’s specialty is perch served with risotto – simple but incredibly delicious.
The island’s tiny church of San Vittore dates back to the 11th century. Its bell tower stands as the highest point on the island, visible from across the lake.
After the grandeur of the other islands, I found the modest beauty of Pescatori refreshingly real and deeply connected to the true spirit of Lake Maggiore.
Tranquility and Treasures in Stresa
Stresa sits like a crown jewel on Lake Maggiore’s western shore, offering both sophisticated charm and peaceful lakeside beauty. The town balances elegant Belle Époque architecture with authentic Italian warmth that immediately made me feel at home.
Historic Hotels and Lakeside Relaxation
Walking along Stresa’s picturesque promenade, I was struck by the magnificent historic hotels that line the waterfront. Hotel La Palma stands out with its classic Italian grandeur and panoramic lake views that have attracted visitors for generations. The hotel’s terrace offers one of the best spots to sip an Aperol Spritz while watching ferries cross the shimmering water.
The public gardens provide perfect spots for quiet contemplation. I spent a delightful afternoon reading beneath century-old trees, occasionally glancing up to admire the Alps rising beyond the lake.
For those seeking active relaxation, Stresa offers easy access to hiking trails with breathtaking views. The cable car to Mount Mottarone provides a quick escape to cooler mountain air during summer months.
Culinary Delights and Local Cuisine
Stresa’s culinary scene beautifully represents northern Italian cuisine with some unique local twists. Lakeside restaurants serve freshwater fish caught daily, with perch being a particular specialty often served with risotto or simply grilled with lemon.
I discovered a charming family-run trattoria tucked away on a side street where the homemade pasta with walnut sauce changed my understanding of Italian cuisine. The owner proudly explained that many ingredients came from their garden outside town.
Don’t miss trying the local cheeses from the Alpine valleys surrounding Lake Maggiore. The morning market offers opportunities to sample varieties you won’t find elsewhere. For dessert, the region’s sweet specialties include margheritine di Stresa – delicate butter cookies that pair perfectly with a strong espresso as you watch boats bobbing on the lake.
Adventures Beyond the Water
While the islands of Lake Maggiore steal much of the spotlight, the mainland shores offer equally enchanting experiences for travelers seeking to explore beyond the water. The lakeside towns each have their own distinct character, from medieval fortresses to charming market squares.
Medieval Wonders and Cannero’s Castles
Just north of Stresa, I discovered the fascinating Castelli di Cannero, fortress ruins perched on tiny islands near the town of Cannero. These 13th-century structures catch the morning light beautifully, creating an almost mystical scene across the water.
I took a small boat from Cannero’s waterfront to get closer to these stone sentinels. Though you can’t enter the ruins, circling them by boat offers spectacular photo opportunities.
The mainland town of Cannero itself is worth exploring, with its peaceful promenade and lovely gardens. I spent a peaceful morning wandering its quiet streets before enjoying an espresso at a lakefront café.
Cannobio’s Enchanting Alleys
Cannobio, one of Lake Maggiore’s northernmost Italian towns before reaching Switzerland, quickly became one of my favorite discoveries. Its colorful waterfront buildings and historic center transport you back in time.
I spent hours wandering through narrow medieval alleys that open unexpectedly into sunlit piazzas. The Sanctuary of Pietà, with its striking Renaissance architecture, offers a quiet moment of reflection away from the bustling lakefront.
Sunday is perfect for visiting Cannobio when its weekly market fills the streets with local vendors selling everything from fresh produce to handcrafted goods. The scent of fresh bread and local cheese creates an irresistible atmosphere!
Gastronomy and Shopping
The lakeside towns around Maggiore offer culinary experiences that rival those found in Milan. I indulged in creamy risotto made with local lake fish at a family-run trattoria in Cannobio, paired perfectly with crisp white wine from nearby vineyards.
For sweet treats, the local bakeries offer delicious pastries like pan dolce and amaretti cookies. Don’t miss trying the artisanal gelato – I recommend the pistachio or lemon flavors for a refreshing lakeside snack.
Shopping opportunities abound in these lakeside towns. I found beautiful silk scarves reminiscent of those in Bellagio, handblown glass inspired by Murano Island techniques, and locally crafted ceramics. The artisan workshops offer unique souvenirs that capture Lake Maggiore’s essence far better than any mass-produced trinket.
Historical Insights and Local Culture
Lake Maggiore’s shores are steeped in fascinating history and vibrant local traditions that have shaped this region for centuries. From ancient Roman influences to powerful noble families like the Borromeos, the lake’s cultural landscape offers a window into northern Italy‘s rich past.
Arona’s Rich Heritage
I spent a fascinating morning exploring Arona, a lakeside town with roots dating back to prehistoric times. The massive statue of San Carlo Borromeo, locally known as “Sancarlone,” towers over the landscape at 35 meters tall. Built in the 17th century, it once held the title of tallest statue in the world!
Walking through Arona’s narrow streets, I discovered remnants of the ancient Borromeo Palace, which was largely destroyed during Napoleon’s campaigns. The remaining foundations tell the story of this powerful family that dominated Lake Maggiore for centuries.
The town square buzzes with local life. I chatted with a shopkeeper who explained how Arona’s strategic position made it important throughout history, serving as a gateway between Italy and the Alps.
Ecclesiastical Architecture and Art
The religious buildings around Lake Maggiore showcase incredible artistic achievements. The Santa Maria Nascente basilica in Arona, for example, has stunning frescoes. These frescoes depict biblical scenes and saints important to the region.
Unlike the opulent church interiors of Venice’s St. Mark’s Square, Lake Maggiore’s ecclesiastical art has a more subdued, contemplative beauty. The blending of Romanesque and Baroque elements creates a unique aesthetic that differs from what you’d find in Tuscany or Rome.
In smaller lakeside villages, I discovered charming chapels with unexpected artistic treasures. One tiny church contained a 15th-century wooden Madonna statue. A local told me that this statue was carried in procession during important festivals.
Milan’s religious traditions are also evident throughout, with many churches displaying architectural elements inspired by the Milanese style.
