Nestled on the Italian Riviera, Portofino captures the heart with its picture-perfect harbor, colorful buildings, and exclusive atmosphere. I first visited this tiny coastal village in Liguria last summer and was immediately enchanted by its timeless glamour. This gem of the Mediterranean coastline offers visitors a perfect blend of luxury shopping, incredible regional cuisine (famous for its pesto!), and breathtaking natural beauty that has attracted celebrities and discerning travelers for decades.
Walking through Portofino’s narrow alleyways, you’ll discover high-end boutiques like Louis Vuitton and Dior alongside charming local shops. The village may be small, but it delivers an authentic Italian experience that feels both exclusive and welcoming. The stunning views from nearly every angle make it impossible not to fall in love with this special corner of Italy.
My favorite moments in Portofino involved simply sitting at a harborside café, watching elegant yachts bob in the crystal-clear water while enjoying the region’s spectacular seafood. Despite its reputation as a luxury destination, I found Portofino offers experiences for every type of traveler – from hiking the surrounding hillsides to exploring hidden beaches only accessible by boat.
Discovering Portofino’s Charm
Portofino captivates visitors with its perfect blend of natural beauty and sophisticated atmosphere. This jewel of the Italian Riviera offers a unique experience where glamour meets authentic coastal village life.
Historical Overview
Walking through Portofino feels like stepping into a living postcard. This former fishing village dates back to Roman times when it was known as Portus Delphini (Port of the Dolphin). I was fascinated to learn that by the 19th century, Portofino had transformed from a simple fishing community into a haven for European aristocracy.
British families were the first to discover this hidden paradise in the 1800s. They built elegant villas on the surrounding hillsides, forever changing the village’s character.
During the 1950s and 60s, Portofino became the ultimate playground for celebrities and the international jet set. Names like Elizabeth Taylor, Richard Burton, and Humphrey Bogart helped cement its reputation as Italy’s most glamorous coastal destination.
Exploring the Colorful Marina
The heart of Portofino is undoubtedly its picture-perfect marina. I spent hours mesmerized by the scene – a horseshoe-shaped harbor lined with pastel-colored buildings that seemed to rise directly from the azure waters.
Luxury yachts bob gently in the harbor, creating a striking contrast with the traditional fishing boats that honor the village’s humble origins. The marina buzzes with activity yet somehow maintains a serene atmosphere.
Best Viewing Spots:
- Castello Brown terrace – Panoramic harbor views
- Church of San Giorgio – Perfect for sunset marina photos
- Waterfront cafés – For people-watching with an Aperol Spritz
Watching local fishermen mend their nets alongside million-dollar yachts offers a fascinating glimpse into how Portofino balances its fishing heritage with its glamorous present.
The Passeggiata Experience
No visit to Portofino is complete without participating in the passeggiata, the traditional Italian evening stroll. This cherished ritual typically begins around 6 pm as the day cools and the light turns golden.
I joined locals and visitors alike wandering along the harbor front, pausing to admire shop windows displaying Italian craftsmanship. The passeggiata isn’t just about walking – it’s a social event where you see and are seen.
The route naturally takes you around the colorful Piazzetta, Portofino’s main square. Here, elegant cafés with outdoor seating offer perfect vantage points for people-watching.
My favorite passeggiata moment? Stopping for gelato while watching the sunset paints the harbor buildings in even warmer hues than their already vibrant colors.
Iconic Landmarks and Sights
Portofino’s breathtaking landscape is dotted with historical treasures that tell the story of this fishing village’s rich past. From hilltop castles to sacred spaces, these landmarks offer both cultural significance and spectacular views.
Castello Brown’s Majesty
Perched high above Portofino’s harbor, Castello Brown offers the most stunning panoramic views of the village and the sparkling Mediterranean Sea. I recommend making the 15-minute uphill walk early morning to beat both the heat and crowds.
The 16th-century fortress has a fascinating history, having served as a military defense before becoming a private residence. Inside, you’ll find period furniture and a small museum showcasing Portofino’s history. The botanical gardens surrounding the castle are equally impressive, with fragrant Mediterranean plants and hidden corners perfect for photos.
What I love most about Castello Brown is watching the luxury yachts and traditional fishing boats in the harbor below. The contrast between Portofino’s humble origins and its glamorous present is perfectly captured from this vantage point.
San Fruttuoso Abbey
Hidden in a secluded cove between Portofino and Camogli lies the magnificent San Fruttuoso Abbey. This 10th-century Benedictine monastery can only be reached by boat or a challenging hiking trail.
The journey to San Fruttuoso is half the adventure! I took a small water taxi from Portofino’s harbor, passing dramatic cliffs and emerald waters. The abbey appears suddenly around a bend—a breathtaking stone structure seemingly rising from the sea.
The complex includes the abbey church, a small museum, and an ancient tower. What makes San Fruttuoso truly special is its beachfront location. After exploring the historical site, I relaxed on the small pebble beach and enjoyed lunch at one of the seaside restaurants.
The underwater Christ of the Abyss statue lies offshore, making this a popular spot for divers too.
The Church of San Martino
In the heart of Portofino village stands the charming Church of San Martino. This yellow church with its distinctive bell tower has been the spiritual center of the fishing community for centuries.
I wandered inside on a hot afternoon and found a peaceful refuge from the bustling piazzetta. The church’s simple exterior contrasts with its ornate interior, featuring beautiful marble altars and religious artifacts.
What struck me most was the collection of ex-votos—small paintings donated by sailors and fishermen in gratitude for being saved from storms at sea. These touching tributes connect visitors to Portofino’s seafaring heritage.
The church celebrates the feast of St. Martin each November when locals process through the streets carrying a statue of their patron saint. It’s a beautiful glimpse into authentic village traditions that continue despite Portofino’s transformation into a luxury destination.
Savor the Flavors of Portofino
Portofino’s cuisine is a delicious blend of fresh seafood, aromatic herbs, and local traditions that capture the essence of Ligurian gastronomy. The village’s restaurants offer everything from casual seafront dining to elegant culinary experiences.
Where to Eat in Portofino
I’ve discovered that Portofino’s dining scene perfectly balances tradition with upscale experiences. Puny Restaurant stands out as a local institution where I’ve enjoyed authentic pesto pasta while spotting celebrities at nearby tables. The restaurant’s terrace offers stunning harbor views that enhance every meal.
For a more relaxed atmosphere, I recommend Da I Gemelli, where the fresh catch of the day is always the star. Their seafood linguine changed my understanding of pasta perfection!
La Terrazza at the Belmond Hotel Splendido offers the most elegant dining experience. While certainly a splurge, their lobster ravioli alone justifies the price tag.
For a quick lunch, try El Portico, where you can grab delicious focaccia and watch the world go by in the piazzetta.
Local Culinary Delights
Pesto is Portofino’s crown jewel – nothing compares to this vibrant basil sauce made fresh with local ingredients. I’ve tried making it at home, but it never matches what you’ll taste here!
Trofie pasta, a twisted short pasta, pairs perfectly with pesto and appears on nearly every menu. Another must-try is pansoti, a ravioli-like pasta stuffed with herbs and ricotta, typically served with walnut sauce.
Fresh seafood dominates local menus. The anchovies here aren’t like what you’ve had at home – they’re delicate and flavorful, especially when marinated in lemon.
Don’t miss trying focaccia di Recco, a thin bread filled with creamy cheese. It makes for a perfect light lunch with a glass of crisp local Vermentino wine.
Dining with a View
The harborfront offers magical dining experiences where I’ve spent hours watching luxury yachts while enjoying fresh seafood. Ristorante Delfino provides front-row seats to the harbor’s colorful buildings reflected in the water.
For sunset dining, I suggest booking at Chuflay Restaurant at Belmond Splendido Mare. Their terrace offers breathtaking views as the sky turns pink over the Mediterranean. On weekend evenings, they often feature live music that perfectly complements the magical setting.
O’Magazin combines excellent pizza with views of anchored yachts. Their outdoor seating area lets you absorb Portofino’s charm while enjoying wood-fired pizzas topped with local ingredients.
For a special occasion, nothing beats La Terrazza’s panoramic vistas stretching across the entire bay. I’ve found these dinner views are worth every euro spent.
Leisure and Pleasure in Portofino
Portofino offers some of the most luxurious and relaxing experiences on the Italian Riviera. I found myself completely enchanted by the exclusive hotels and pristine beaches that make this village a favorite among celebrities and luxury travelers.
Luxurious Hotel Splendido
The legendary Hotel Splendido sits perched on a hillside overlooking Portofino’s harbor. Once a 16th-century monastery, it’s now one of the most prestigious hotels on the Ligurian coast.
I spent an afternoon enjoying the terraced gardens and infinity pool with panoramic views of the Mediterranean. The experience was simply magical.
The hotel’s La Terrazza restaurant serves incredible local seafood dishes that I still dream about months later. Their signature pasta with sea bass and Ligurian olives is a must-try.
Even if you’re not staying here (rooms start around €800 per night), I recommend visiting for an aperitivo at their bar. The cocktails are expertly crafted, and the sunset views are unmatched anywhere else in Portofino.
Splendido Mare and its Allure
For those who prefer to stay in the heart of the action, Splendido Mare (the “little sister” of Hotel Splendido) sits right on the piazzetta overlooking the harbor.
I loved watching the mega-yachts from my breakfast table at their DaV Mare restaurant. The people-watching here is second to none!
The boutique hotel has just 14 rooms, giving it an intimate feeling despite its prime location. The nautical-themed decor perfectly captures Portofino’s maritime heritage.
What makes Splendido Mare special is how the staff treats every guest like royalty. They arranged a private boat tour for me that showed hidden coves along the coastline that I would never have discovered otherwise.
Paraggi Beach Relaxation
Just a 15-minute walk from Portofino’s center lies Paraggi Beach, a small bay with emerald waters and soft sand. This is rare for the rocky Italian Riviera!
I spent a full day relaxing at this exclusive beach. The crystal-clear water is perfect for swimming and snorkeling.
You can rent loungers and umbrellas at the beach club, though they’re quite pricey (about €50 per day). It’s worth splurging for the prime seaside real estate.
For lunch, I enjoyed fresh seafood at the beachfront restaurant. Their fritto misto (mixed fried seafood) paired perfectly with a cold glass of local Vermentino wine.
If you’re feeling adventurous, water sports rentals are available. I tried paddleboarding and got amazing photos of Portofino’s coastline from the water.
Navigating the Area
Getting around Portofino and exploring the surrounding Italian Riviera requires some planning. The village’s traffic restrictions make public transportation and boat services your best options for hassle-free travel.
Getting to Portofino by Bus or Boat
I found the bus to be the most economical way to reach Portofino from nearby towns. Regular services run from Santa Margherita Ligure, taking about 20 minutes along a scenic coastal road. The bus stop is conveniently located at Portofino’s entrance, just a short walk from the main piazzetta.
For a more memorable arrival, I highly recommend the boat services. Ferries operate from Rapallo, Santa Margherita Ligure, and even Genoa during the summer months. There’s something magical about approaching Portofino’s colorful harbor from the water.
Remember that the last buses and boats typically leave Portofino early in the evening, especially in the off-season. I once had to splurge on a taxi back to my hotel because I lost track of time!
Journeying to Nearby Destinations
From Portofino, I’ve explored much of Liguria using it as my base.
Santa Margherita Ligure is just a 20-minute bus ride away and offers a more authentic feel with fewer tourists.
Rapallo, slightly further, has a beautiful seaside promenade and castle that’s worth visiting.
For longer excursions, boats connect Portofino to the stunning Cinque Terre villages during the summer months.
If you’re driving, park in Santa Margherita Ligure and take public transportation.
The narrow road to Portofino has limited parking that fills quickly and comes with steep prices.
For hiking enthusiasts, the trails connecting Portofino to surrounding towns offer breathtaking views.
The path to San Fruttuoso Abbey is particularly stunning, winding through the Portofino Regional Park.
