When I first arrived in La Spezia, I expected just another Italian port city. What I discovered instead was a charming destination in its own right. La Spezia truly surprised me with its lovely atmosphere, beautiful Gulf of Poets views, and perfect position as a base for exploring the stunning Ligurian coastline.
The city sits on what locals call the Gulf of Poets, named for the English writers like Byron and Shelley who fell in love with this coastline centuries ago. I quickly understood their inspiration as I wandered through La Spezia’s streets and along its waterfront promenade. The port buzzes with energy, yet lacks the overwhelming tourist crowds you’ll find in Cinque Terre’s five villages.
Using La Spezia as my home base turned out to be the best travel decision I made. Each morning, I simply hopped on a quick train to explore Cinque Terre’s colorful villages. Then, I returned to La Spezia in the evening for delicious seafood dinners at local prices. This strategic location also put other amazing destinations like Florence, Pisa, and the Tuscan countryside within easy reach for day trips.
Discovering La Spezia: The Unexpected Charm
La Spezia surprised me with its authentic Italian character beyond just being a gateway to Cinque Terre. This port city offers a blend of maritime history, cultural treasures, and culinary delights that deserve more than just a passing visit.
Local Museums and Hidden Gems
The Amedeo Lia Museum was my first unexpected discovery in La Spezia. Housed in a former monastery, it contains an impressive collection of paintings, sculptures and decorative arts spanning from the 13th to 18th centuries. I was amazed by the quality of works in such a lesser-known museum.
Just a short walk away, I found the Technical Naval Museum, which tells the fascinating story of La Spezia’s maritime heritage. With model ships, naval artifacts, and interactive exhibits, it offers insight into why this natural harbor became such an important military base over the centuries.
Beyond museums, I enjoyed wandering through the narrow streets of the old town. The colorful buildings and local shops felt authentic and untouched by mass tourism. The Public Gardens offered a peaceful retreat with Mediterranean plants and stunning sea views.
La Spezia’s Marina and Gastronomy
The marina captivated me with its mix of fishing boats and luxury yachts against the backdrop of the Ligurian coast. Walking along Passeggiata Morin, I watched locals fishing while enjoying the fresh sea breeze.
La Spezia’s food scene reflects its coastal location and Ligurian traditions. I savored incredible seafood dishes featuring the day’s catch, from anchovies to mussels prepared in simple but flavorful ways. The local specialty, muscoli ripieni (stuffed mussels), became an instant favorite.
The Friday market near Piazza Cavour buzzed with energy as I browsed stalls selling local cheeses, olives, and Ligurian wines. Street food vendors offered farinata, a chickpea pancake that makes for a perfect snack while exploring the city.
Day Trips to Porto Venere and Lerici
Porto Venere, just a short boat ride from La Spezia, stole my heart with its colorful waterfront houses and the ancient Church of St. Peter perched dramatically on a rocky promontory. This UNESCO World Heritage site feels less crowded than the Cinque Terre villages but is equally stunning.
I spent a wonderful afternoon exploring Porto Venere’s narrow medieval streets and swimming in crystal-clear waters. The views across the Gulf of Poets toward the islands of Palmaria, Tino, and Tinetto are simply breathtaking.
Lerici, another coastal gem, offered a different perspective of the Ligurian coastline. Its impressive castle overlooks a picturesque bay with a lovely beach. I enjoyed a leisurely lunch at a waterfront restaurant, watching boats come and go while sampling the local pesto – arguably the best in Liguria.
Navigating from La Spezia to Cinque Terre
Getting from La Spezia to the stunning villages of Cinque Terre is surprisingly easy and affordable. The train system connects these destinations with frequent service that makes day trips or longer stays equally convenient.
La Spezia Centrale: The Gateway Station
La Spezia Centrale station became my best friend during my visit. Located in the heart of the city, it’s the main hub for all trains heading to Cinque Terre. I found the station clean, well-organized, and easy to navigate even as a first-time visitor.
The station has several ticket machines with English language options. Helpful staff at the information desk can answer questions if you’re confused about anything.
From La Spezia, trains run to all five Cinque Terre villages: Riomaggiore (the closest at just 7 minutes), Manarola, Corniglia, Vernazza, and Monterosso. The trains also continue north to Levanto if you want to explore beyond the five villages.
Train Schedule Tips and Tickets
Trains between La Spezia and Cinque Terre run frequently. During peak hours, they usually run every 15-30 minutes. The first trains start around 5:00 AM and the last ones return around midnight, but always check the current schedule.
I purchased a Cinque Terre Train Card for €18.20, which included:
- Unlimited train travel between La Spezia and Levanto
- Access to hiking trails
- Wi-Fi at stations
- Restroom use at stations
Single tickets cost about €4 each way, so the card saves money if you plan to visit multiple villages. Remember to validate your ticket before boarding in the small green machines on the platform.
During summer and holidays, trains can get crowded. I recommend traveling mid-morning or late afternoon to avoid the biggest tourist rushes.
Exploring Cinque Terre’s Five Villages
Cinque Terre captivated me with its five colorful villages hugging the rugged Italian coastline. Each town has its own distinct personality while sharing the UNESCO World Heritage status that makes this area so special.
Village-Hopping Itinerary
I started my journey in Riomaggiore, the southernmost village, with its charming main street and rocky harbor. The colorful buildings stacked along the hillside create a postcard-perfect scene.
Manarola was my next stop. This tiny hamlet might be my favorite with its picturesque harbor and vineyards climbing the surrounding hills. The sunset views here are absolutely breathtaking.
Corniglia sits perched high on a cliff, requiring a climb of 382 steps from the train station. The effort is worth it! This is the quietest of the five villages and offers stunning panoramic views.
Vernazza struck me as the most photogenic village with its natural harbor and medieval castle ruins. I loved wandering its narrow streets and stopping for fresh seafood.
Monterosso, the northernmost village, boasts the best beaches. It’s larger than the others and split into old town and new town sections. The flat terrain makes it easier to explore.
Hiking Trails and Coastal Views
The famous Blue Trail connects all five villages along 12 kilometers of breathtaking coastline. Parts of the trail require a fee and permit as they’re carefully preserved.
I found the hike between Monterosso and Vernazza most challenging but rewarding. The path climbs through olive groves and vineyards with sweeping Mediterranean views that made me stop every few minutes for photos.
For easier walking, the higher path called the High Trail offers gentler slopes but equally impressive vistas. This route takes you through forests and small settlements most tourists never see.
Remember to wear proper shoes! Even the easiest trails have uneven terrain and steps. I packed plenty of water and snacks as services are limited once you’re on the paths.
Some trail sections occasionally close due to landslides or maintenance. I checked the current status at visitor centers before setting out each morning.
Extending Your Journey Beyond Cinque Terre
La Spezia isn’t just a gateway to the colorful villages of Cinque Terre—it’s perfectly positioned for exploring more of Italy and even venturing into neighboring countries. The rail connections and port make it an ideal starting point for extended adventures.
Trips to Major Italian Cities and Tuscany
From La Spezia, I found reaching major Italian cities surprisingly convenient. Florence is just a 2-hour train ride away, making day trips to see Michelangelo’s David and the stunning Duomo totally doable. I particularly loved wandering through Florence’s leather markets before heading back to my La Spezia base.
Pisa is even closer—only an hour by train! I spent a morning taking those classic tourist photos with the Leaning Tower before exploring the less crowded cathedral complex. Pro tip: book Leaning Tower tickets in advance to avoid disappointment.
For longer excursions, Rome and Milan are both accessible by high-speed trains. I spent two days in Rome visiting the Colosseum and Vatican City. Tuscany’s rolling countryside is also easily reachable, with its vineyards and medieval towns like San Gimignano offering a perfect contrast to coastal views.
Cruising the French Riviera and the Mediterranean
La Spezia’s port status makes Mediterranean cruising another fantastic option. I booked a three-day cruise that stopped in Nice along the French Riviera, where the promenade and azure waters lived up to their reputation.
Many cruise lines offer Mediterranean routes that include Barcelona, with its stunning Gaudí architecture and vibrant Las Ramblas. I spent a full day exploring Park Güell and sampling tapas before returning to the ship.
For those with more time, cruises extending to the Greek Islands like Santorini and Mykonos depart regularly. I was mesmerized by Santorini’s white-washed buildings against the deep blue sea. Some itineraries even reach Turkey, where ancient ruins and bazaars create unforgettable experiences.
The best time for Mediterranean cruising is May-June or September-October when crowds are thinner but weather remains pleasant. Most cruises offer packages that range from 3 to 14 days depending on destinations.
Practical Travel Tips for La Spezia and Cinque Terre
Planning your trip to this stunning Italian coastline requires some smart preparation to make the most of your experience. I’ve gathered essential advice from my multiple visits that will help you navigate both La Spezia and the picturesque villages of Cinque Terre.
Best Times to Visit and Weather Information
The ideal time to visit La Spezia and Cinque Terre is during the shoulder seasons of April-May and September-October. During these months, I found comfortable temperatures (around 65-75°F) and significantly fewer crowds than the summer high season.
July and August bring intense heat, packed trains, and crowded hiking trails. Winter visits (November-March) offer peaceful experiences, but many restaurants and some accommodations close during this period.
Weather can change quickly along the coastline. I once experienced a sunny morning in Riomaggiore that turned into afternoon rain in Monterosso. Always check local forecasts before planning day trips.
Be aware that hiking trails may close during heavy rainfall. The famous Via dell’Amore trail between Riomaggiore and Manarola sometimes closes for maintenance, so verify its status before your visit.
Booking Accommodations and Dining Options
Staying in La Spezia offers excellent value compared to the five villages. I paid nearly 40% less for my apartment in La Spezia than similar options in Vernazza. The regular train service makes it easy to visit the villages during the day.
Accommodation recommendations in La Spezia:
- Near the train station: Convenient for day trips
- Porto Mirabello area: Beautiful marina views
- City center: Close to markets and restaurants
Book accommodations at least 3-4 months ahead for summer visits. I’ve found Booking.com particularly useful for finding apartments with kitchenettes, which helps save money on meals.
For dining, try La Spezia’s covered market for fresh local ingredients. The seafood restaurants along Via del Prione serve incredible fresh catch dinners at reasonable prices compared to tourist spots in the villages.
Packing for Various Activities
My packing essentials for this region focus on versatility and comfort:
Must-pack items:
- Good walking shoes or hiking boots. The terrain is rocky and steep.
- Water bottle. You can refill it at public fountains throughout the villages.
- Swimwear. You’ll need this for beach days in Monterosso.
- Light layers. Evenings can be cool, even in summer.
- Small backpack for day trips.
I always bring a packable rain jacket regardless of season. The Mediterranean weather can change quickly, and you’ll appreciate having protection during unexpected showers.
For hikers, trekking poles helped me navigate the steeper trails between villages. Meanwhile, beach-goers should pack water shoes for the rocky shores. Also, remember to bring a European plug adapter for charging your devices at night.
