Many travelers flock to the bustling towns around Lake Como, but I found myself captivated by the quiet charm of Varenna. This small village, perched on the eastern shore of the lake, offers something the more famous spots like Bellagio can’t – an authentic Italian experience without the crowds.
Varenna’s magic lies in its simplicity – colorful buildings cascading down to the water, a romantic lakeside promenade known as the Lover’s Walk, and cafés serving what might be the best cappuccino I’ve ever tasted.
What struck me most about Varenna was how it invites you to slow down and truly appreciate Lake Como’s beauty. Unlike other towns around the lake, Varenna lets you stroll right along the water’s edge, offering stunning views at every turn. The village feels less touristy, more intimate, and somehow more connected to the true spirit of this magnificent Italian region.
My days in Varenna quickly fell into a blissful rhythm. I had morning cappuccinos at lakeside cafés, spent afternoons exploring majestic gardens and villas, and enjoyed evenings savoring incredible meals at local restaurants where the food rivals the views. It’s no wonder this once sleepy fishing village has become the Lake Como destination I’ve always dreamed about and longed to return to.
Discovering Varenna’s Charm
My first glimpse of Varenna stole my breath away. The small Lake Como village captivated me with its authentic Italian character and peaceful atmosphere away from the tourist crowds.
Strolling Through Cobblestone Streets
Walking through Varenna’s narrow lanes feels like stepping into a storybook. The cobblestone streets wind uphill from the lakefront, creating a maze of discoveries at every turn. These ancient pathways, worn smooth by centuries of footsteps, led me to hidden gems tucked between colorful buildings.
I found delightful small shops selling local crafts, ceramics, and lake-inspired artwork. Many of my favorite photos from the trip capture these quaint streets with their flower-adorned balconies and charming doorways.
The streets are steep in places, but the effort is worthwhile. Each new vantage point offers a different angle of Lake Como’s blue waters framed by mountains.
Visiting the Colorful Waterfront
Varenna’s waterfront promenade called the “Passeggiata degli Innamorati” (Lovers’ Walk), became my daily ritual. This lakeside path connects the main village to the ferry dock through a series of arched walkways hugging the shoreline.
The buildings facing the water display a palette of warm colors – terracotta, gold, and salmon pink – that glow beautifully in both morning and evening light. These vibrant facades make perfect backdrops for photos that capture Varenna’s essence.
Small cafés dot the waterfront where I enjoyed cappuccinos while watching boats glide across the lake. Unlike Como’s busier towns, Varenna’s waterfront never feels crowded or rushed.
I often found myself simply sitting on the stone wall, feet dangling toward the water, mesmerized by the mountain reflections rippling on the lake’s surface.
Culinary Delights in Varenna
Food quickly became one of my favorite parts of visiting this charming Lake Como village. The local cuisine combines traditional Italian flavors with fresh lake ingredients that create truly memorable meals.
Savoring Italian Food
Varenna’s restaurants offer authentic dishes that showcase the region’s culinary heritage. I discovered that many eateries are tucked away in narrow lanes, offering intimate dining experiences with lake views that enhance every bite.
The fresh fish from Lake Como appears on nearly every menu, typically prepared simply with olive oil and herbs to highlight its natural flavors. During my stay, I couldn’t get enough of the local specialty, missoltini – sun-dried lake fish served with polenta.
Even the simplest cappuccino in Varenna tastes extraordinary. I found myself lingering at lakeside cafés each morning, savoring what might be the best coffee I’ve ever tasted while watching fishermen return with their morning catch.
Many restaurants offer outdoor seating where you can enjoy pasta dishes made with regional cheeses and seasonal ingredients while gazing at the stunning lake scenery.
Indulging in Gelato and Wine Bars
No visit to Varenna is complete without daily gelato stops. The village may be small, but its gelaterias offer an impressive variety of flavors made from local ingredients.
I developed a routine of afternoon gelato walks along the lakefront promenade, trying a different flavor each day. The pistachio and hazelnut options were particular standouts. They were creamy and intensely flavored without being overly sweet.
The wine bars in Varenna provide perfect evening retreats, especially as sunset colors wash over the lake. These cozy establishments offer excellent selections of regional wines from Lombardy and neighboring Piedmont.
Many wine bars serve small plates of local cheeses and cured meats that pair perfectly with their wine selections. I spent several evenings at a tiny enoteca near the harbor, where the owner recommended wonderful wine pairings based on my food preferences.
Exploring Beyond Varenna
While Varenna captured my heart, the surrounding areas of Lake Como offer equally enchanting experiences that shouldn’t be missed. The excellent ferry system makes it easy to discover neighboring gems, each with its distinct character and charm.
Day Trips on Lake Como
The ferry network on Lake Como is truly a traveler’s best friend. I found that purchasing a day pass was the most economical option, allowing unlimited travel between villages. The ferries run frequently during high season, though it’s worth checking the schedule in advance during off-peak months.
From Varenna, you can reach most mid-lake towns within 15-20 minutes. I particularly enjoyed the scenic route to Lenno, home to the stunning Villa del Balbianello where several movies were filmed.
Another worthwhile day trip is to the town of Como itself. The journey takes about an hour by ferry, but the changing scenery along the way makes the trip enjoyable. Como offers excellent shopping and the impressive Duomo (cathedral) that’s worth exploring.
The Allure of Bellagio and Menaggio
Bellagio, often called the “Pearl of Lake Como,” lives up to its reputation. The moment I stepped off the ferry, I was greeted by elegant shops and cafés lining the waterfront. The narrow, stepped streets lead uphill to charming boutiques selling local silk products and artisanal goods.
Villa Melzi in Bellagio deserves special mention for its magnificent gardens. I spent a delightful morning wandering through the immaculately maintained grounds with stunning lake views.
Menaggio, just a 15-minute ferry ride from Varenna, offers a more relaxed atmosphere than Bellagio. Its beautiful lakeside promenade is perfect for a stroll. I found the locals particularly friendly here, and the gelato at Gelateria La Fabbrica del Gelato was simply outstanding.
Varenna for Leisure and Relaxation
Varenna offers a perfect escape from the busier Lake Como destinations, with its peaceful atmosphere and unhurried pace. The village embraces visitors with opportunities to truly unwind in beautiful surroundings.
Villa Cipressi Spa Retreat
I discovered heaven on earth at Villa Cipressi’s spa, nestled in a historic building with breathtaking lake views. The spa combines traditional Italian wellness practices with modern treatments that leave my body and mind completely rejuvenated.
What makes this place special is how they incorporate local ingredients – Lake Como olive oil and lemon essence infuse many of their signature massages. The thermal pools overlook the water, creating a seamless connection between spa relaxation and nature.
My favorite experience was their “Lake Como Ritual” – a two-hour treatment combining a herbal steam bath, gentle exfoliation with crushed grape seeds, a full-body massage with essential oils, and a facial using local botanicals.
The staff speaks excellent English and creates personalized wellness plans for guests seeking deeper relaxation.
Finding Serenity in Agriturismo Stays
Just a short walk from Varenna’s center, I found several family-run agriturismos that offered authentic farm stays. These working farms welcome guests into rustic yet comfortable accommodations where you can disconnect from technology and reconnect with simpler pleasures.
At Agriturismo La Vecchia Cascina, I helped collect eggs each morning and learned to make traditional risotto using their home-grown saffron. The family treats guests like relatives, often sharing evening meals under grapevine-covered pergolas.
Many agriturismos around Varenna offer cooking classes where I learned family recipes passed down through generations. The fresh ingredients come straight from gardens just steps from the kitchen.
These stays typically cost less than village hotels while providing more authentic experiences and space to breathe.
Planning Your Varenna Getaway
After falling in love with Varenna, I’ve learned the secrets to making the most of this charming Lake Como village. Timing your visit right and choosing the perfect place to stay will make all the difference in your experience.
Best Times to Visit
I’ve visited Varenna in different seasons and found late spring (May-June) and early fall (September-October) to be magical. During these shoulder seasons, you’ll enjoy pleasant weather around 65-75°F with fewer crowds than the peak summer months.
Summer brings gorgeous sunny days perfect for swimming, but also brings more tourists and higher prices. July and August can be hot and busy, though the lake breeze helps keep things comfortable.
Winter visits offer a different experience. Many restaurants and attractions reduce hours or close entirely between November and March. However, if you’re looking for peaceful solitude and don’t mind cooler temperatures, winter reveals Varenna’s authentic charm.
Booking Your Accommodation
I recommend securing your stay at least 3-4 months in advance. This is especially important for summer visits when options become limited.
Varenna offers various accommodation types to suit different budgets and needs.
For an authentic experience, I love the apartments in colorful buildings along the narrow streets. Many offer kitchenettes, allowing you to cook with fresh Italian ingredients from local markets.
Villa Monastero and Villa Cipressi also offer gorgeous rooms with historic charm and stunning gardens.
Waterfront hotels provide incredible lake views but come with premium prices. My personal favorite spot is a small apartment I found just two streets back from the water. It’s still walkable to everything but much more affordable.
Don’t forget to check cancellation policies, as Italy’s weather can be unpredictable in transitional seasons.
