Stepping into Arezzo’s Piazza Grande on a Saturday morning, I’m instantly transported back in time. The cobblestones beneath my feet have witnessed centuries of history, from medieval jousts to today’s treasure hunters searching for antiques.
Italy’s oldest and largest antiques fair takes place here every first Sunday of the month and the Saturday before, transforming this Tuscan gem into a paradise for collectors and casual browsers alike.
The fair has been running since 1968, but Arezzo’s traditions go much deeper. When the antique stalls clear away, the same piazza hosts the Giostra del Saracino (Joust of the Saracen). Costumed riders on horseback compete in a medieval tournament that dates back centuries. This beautiful blend of commerce and pageantry makes Arezzo special – it’s no wonder Roberto Benigni chose this historic center as the backdrop for scenes in his Oscar-winning film “Life is Beautiful.”
Wandering through the winding streets beyond the market, I discover that Arezzo offers more than just scheduled events. The entire historic center feels like an open-air museum where everyday life continues amidst extraordinary beauty.
Cafés spill onto sidewalks, locals chat on ancient steps, and around every corner lies another architectural treasure. This is the real Tuscany – authentic, unhurried, and utterly captivating.
Exploring the Heart of Arezzo
Walking through Arezzo feels like stepping back in time. The ancient stones and medieval architecture create an atmosphere that’s both magical and authentic, away from the tourist crowds of Florence and Siena.
The Charm of Piazza Grande
Piazza Grande is truly the beating heart of Arezzo. This sloping square surrounded by historic buildings captivated me from the moment I arrived. The elegant Vasari Loggia frames one side with its perfect Renaissance arches, while medieval towers and noble palaces complete the stunning backdrop.
When I visited during the antiques fair, held on the first weekend of each month, the square transformed into a treasure hunter’s paradise. Over 500 exhibitors fill the piazza with everything from rare books and vintage jewelry to furniture and paintings.
The square also hosts the exciting Giostra del Saracino, a medieval jousting tournament held twice yearly. I watched in awe as riders in colorful period costumes competed for their districts, continuing a tradition that dates back centuries.
A Stroll Through the Historic Center
Arezzo’s narrow medieval streets invited me to wander without a map. Around every corner, I discovered charming cafés, artisan workshops, and hidden courtyards telling stories of the city’s rich past.
The main shopping street, Corso Italia, offers a perfect blend of high-end boutiques and traditional shops. I loved stopping for a coffee at one of the street-side cafés to watch locals go about their daily routines.
Santa Maria della Pieve stands proudly on the route with its distinctive bell tower and remarkable Romanesque façade featuring rows of columns, each uniquely carved. The interior’s simple beauty provides a peaceful escape from the bustling streets.
The Architectural Wonders of Arezzo Cathedral
Perched at the highest point of the city, Arezzo Cathedral offers breathtaking views across the Tuscan countryside. I was struck by its imposing Gothic structure and beautiful stained glass windows that fill the interior with colored light.
The cathedral houses artistic treasures that surprised me with their quality and importance. The highlight is Mary Magdalene by Piero della Francesca, whose delicate details and use of light show why he’s considered one of the Renaissance’s greatest masters.
Behind the main altar, I discovered the stunning stained glass windows created by Guillaume de Marcillat in the 16th century. Their vibrant colors and biblical scenes left me in awe of the craftsmanship and artistic vision of the period.
Antique Markets: Treasure Troves of Arezzo
Arezzo offers some of the most remarkable antique shopping experiences in all of Italy. The city’s historic center transforms into a treasure hunter’s paradise each month, drawing collectors and casual browsers alike.
Antiques Fair: A Monthly Splendor
The Arezzo Antiques Fair stands as Italy’s oldest and largest antique market, dating back to 1968. I always plan my visits around the first Sunday of each month and the Saturday before, when hundreds of vendors fill the cobblestone streets and Piazza Grande.
Image Source: Tripadvisor
Walking through the fair is like traveling through time. The stalls overflow with everything from ornate furniture and vintage paintings to ancient books and quirky curiosities. Last time I visited, I spent hours browsing through collections of porcelain, prints, and toys.
The market spreads throughout the historic center, creating a magical atmosphere as dealers display their goods against the backdrop of medieval architecture. The best finds appear early in the morning, so I recommend arriving before 9 AM to beat the crowds.
Shopping and More on Corso Italia
When the antiques fair isn’t running, Corso Italia offers a year-round shopping experience with several permanent antique shops. This elegant street serves as Arezzo’s main shopping avenue.
I love exploring the boutiques here that specialize in vintage jewelry, Tuscan ceramics, and restored furniture. Many shop owners are passionate collectors themselves and enjoy sharing stories about their treasures.
Image Source: Flickr
Between browsing sessions, I stop at the charming cafés along the corso to enjoy an espresso and watch locals pass by. The street connects Piazza San Francesco to Piazza Guido Monaco, making it easy to navigate the city’s highlights while shopping.
For serious collectors, I’ve found that some shop owners keep their most precious items off display. Don’t hesitate to strike up a conversation – you might get invited to see hidden collections not visible from the street!
Medieval Jousts: The Tradition of Giostra del Saracino
The Giostra del Saracino stands as Arezzo’s most cherished historical event, bringing medieval pageantry to life twice each year in the magnificent Piazza Grande.
Understanding the Joust of the Saracen
The Joust of the Saracen is deeply rooted in Arezzo’s medieval past. I’ve watched in awe as knights from the city’s four quarters (contrade) compete against a life-sized mechanical figure called the “Saracen.” Each rider gallops at full speed toward the target, aiming to strike it perfectly with their lance.
The event happens twice yearly – on the third Saturday in June and the first Sunday in September. It’s not just a tourist attraction but a genuine competition with real stakes for local participants who train year-round.
Walking through Arezzo before the joust, I noticed how the entire city transforms. Each contrade proudly displays its colors and emblems throughout its neighborhood. The competition fuels friendly rivalries that have existed for generations.
Image Source: Wikimedia Commons
Experiencing the Pageantry
Nothing prepared me for my first Giostra experience. The procession begins hours before the actual joust, with over 300 participants in stunning medieval costumes parading through Arezzo’s ancient streets.
In Piazza Grande, the atmosphere is electric. I recommend arriving early to secure a good spot. The square transforms into a medieval wonderland, with flags, trumpets, and drums creating an authentic atmosphere.
The crowd’s reactions are part of the experience – cheers erupt when a knight scores well, and groans follow missed opportunities. The winning contrada earns the golden lance and bragging rights until the next joust.
Beyond the main event, I enjoyed exploring the temporary medieval village that appears around the piazza. Here, artisans demonstrate traditional crafts, and food stalls serve historical Tuscan dishes that complete this remarkable journey into the past.
Arezzo’s Artistic Legacy: Frescoes and Far Beyond
Arezzo’s streets and buildings are like an open-air gallery, showcasing some of Italy’s most remarkable artistic treasures. The city’s walls tell stories through centuries-old frescoes, while historic homes preserve the legacy of Renaissance masters.
Piero della Francesca’s Timeless Frescoes
Walking into the Basilica of San Francesco feels like stepping into a living art history book. I was immediately drawn to Piero della Francesca’s stunning “Legend of the True Cross” fresco cycle. Created between 1452 and 1466, these masterpieces show his genius for perspective and light.
The frescoes tell the complex story of how the wood from the Garden of Eden became Christ’s cross. Piero’s use of geometric precision and delicate colors creates scenes that feel both ancient and timeless.
What struck me most was how the morning light illuminates the eastern wall paintings. I recommend visiting early to see these works in their full glory, when the sun’s rays bring the figures to life.
Casa di Vasari: Home of a Renaissance Master
Just a short walk from the main square, I discovered the fascinating home of Giorgio Vasari. This talented artist and architect is perhaps best known for writing “Lives of the Most Excellent Painters, Sculptors, and Architects,” essentially creating art history as a discipline.
Vasari decorated his own home with elaborate frescoes between 1542 and 1548. Each room tells a different story through vibrant paintings that cover walls and ceilings. The most impressive is his studio, where allegorical scenes celebrate the arts.
The house itself feels intimate despite its artistic grandeur. Walking through these rooms, I felt connected to Vasari’s creative spirit that helped shape the Renaissance. Don’t miss the original manuscripts and drawings displayed throughout the house.
Image Source: Wikimedia Commons
Tuscan Flavors: Wine, Dine, and Sunshine
Arezzo’s culinary scene captures the essence of Tuscany with its rich flavors and traditional dining experiences. The local food and wine culture here offers visitors a true taste of authentic Italian life.
Wine Tasting in the Chianti Region
Just a short drive from Arezzo lies the famed Chianti region, where I discovered some of Italy’s most celebrated wines. The rolling hills covered with vineyards create a perfect backdrop for wine tasting adventures.
I recommend visiting smaller, family-owned wineries where you’ll often meet the winemakers themselves. They’ll proudly explain their process while you sample robust reds with notes of cherry and violet.
The Chianti Classico, with its distinctive black rooster label, is a must-try. Many wineries offer tours that include walks through the vineyards and ancient cellars where the wine ages in oak barrels.
Plan to spend at least half a day wine tasting, and consider hiring a local driver so you can fully enjoy the experience without worrying about driving back to Arezzo.
Tuscan Cuisine: Savoring the Local Delicacies
In Arezzo, dining isn’t just about eating—it’s about celebrating life. I found myself drawn to the traditional osterias tucked away in medieval alleyways. Generations-old recipes come to life in these charming spots.
The ribollita quickly became my favorite dish—a hearty vegetable and bread soup that embodies the rustic spirit of Tuscan cooking. The massive bistecca alla fiorentina (T-bone steak) served rare is another standout experience for meat lovers.
Alfresco dining in Arezzo’s piazzas offers the perfect way to soak in the atmosphere. Nothing beats enjoying a meal under the Tuscan sunshine, watching locals go about their day.
Don’t miss trying the locally-produced olive oil, drizzled generously over crusty bread for the simplest yet most satisfying appetizer. Pair it with pecorino cheese aged in the nearby countryside for an authentic taste of Tuscany.
