Walking through Exeter, you can almost feel the weight of history pressing in from every side. The cathedral rises above the city center, impossible to miss. Its gothic arches and intricate stonework left a deep impression on me right away.
Exeter’s Roman roots still show up everywhere, with about 70% of the old Roman walls surviving and all sorts of discoveries—coins, bath houses—turning up over the years. As I wandered around, I kept stumbling on hints of Exeter’s Roman past, whether it was a stretch of ancient wall or a plaque describing some artifact dug up in a nearby field.
My time in Exeter took me from the bustling cathedral square to quieter corners where the city’s Roman story still lingers. There’s this unique blend here—big, dramatic history and everyday life mixing together. It’s a place that just begs to be explored.
Exeter Cathedral: A Masterpiece of Gothic Heritage
Exeter Cathedral sits right in the heart of Devon’s historic capital, famous for its Gothic design and those unforgettable vaulted ceilings. Around it, Cathedral Green and Cathedral Yard offer peaceful spaces that frame the cathedral beautifully. The whole area just breathes history, but it’s also part of daily city life.
Gothic Architecture and Vaulted Ceilings
When I first saw Exeter Cathedral, the sheer scale and detail of the Gothic architecture stopped me in my tracks. The west front is crowded with medieval carvings—saints, angels, and all sorts of mysterious figures.
Inside, sunlight pours through stained glass windows, splashing color across the stone floors. But it’s the ceiling that really steals the show. Exeter Cathedral claims the longest uninterrupted medieval stone vaulted ceiling in England, and honestly, it feels endless. The ribbed arches soar overhead, each one decorated with carved bosses, adding a layer of artistry to the structure.
There are quirky details everywhere—ancient misericord seats tucked away in the choir, a 15th-century astronomical clock, and window tracery that catches the light just so. All these features together make the cathedral a textbook case of Decorated Gothic style, most of it built between the 12th and 14th centuries.
Cathedral Green and Cathedral Yard
Step outside and you’re on Cathedral Green, a big stretch of grass that gives you the best views of the cathedral’s exterior. On sunny days, locals and tourists sprawl out here, chatting or just soaking up the atmosphere.
Cathedral Yard runs alongside, lined with historic buildings, shops, and cozy cafes. The Cathedral Close—a cluster of old houses and winding lanes—shows just how long this spot has drawn people together. In the past, the area buzzed with markets, fairs, and lively gatherings.
Key places around the cathedral:
| Name | Description |
|---|---|
| Cathedral Green | Large grassy area in front of the cathedral |
| Cathedral Yard | Pedestrian space, historic buildings, cafes |
| Cathedral Close | Area around cathedral with old houses, lanes |
The Role of Exeter Cathedral in Medieval and Modern Exeter
Since 1050, Exeter Cathedral has shaped the city’s story. In medieval times, it was the spiritual and social center. People from every walk of life—bishops, royals, townsfolk—all gathered here for big events and ceremonies.
These days, the cathedral still brings people together. It’s not just a place of worship; it’s a landmark, a venue, and a gathering spot. Concerts, art displays, festivals, and seasonal markets pop up inside and out. Schools and visitors come to learn about Exeter’s Roman and medieval roots or just marvel at the architecture.
The cathedral’s presence keeps the city center buzzing. Its history and events, along with the inviting green spaces, help Exeter Cathedral stay at the heart of both old and modern city life.
Echoes of the Roman City: Unearthing Exeter’s Ancient Past
As I wandered Exeter’s streets, I couldn’t help but imagine the layers of history beneath my feet. The city’s Roman story runs deep, stretching back to the days of the Empire and still shaping what you see today.
Isca Dumnoniorum and the Roman Empire
The Romans called Exeter Isca Dumnoniorum. They arrived around AD 50 and built a massive fortress here for the 2nd Augusta Legion.
They laid out the Roman city in a neat grid—streets, public squares, military buildings. Traders, soldiers, and locals filled the place, turning it into a bustling town.
I found out that much of what we know comes from coins, pottery, and old records dug up over the years. Each discovery adds another piece to the puzzle of everyday life in Roman Exeter.
Roman City Walls, Bath House, and Archaeology
Exeter’s Roman city walls count among the oldest in Britain. Built from local stone, big chunks still stand today, wrapping around the city center. The wall used to run over a mile and measured about two meters thick.
I traced stretches of these ancient walls, running my hands over stones almost 2,000 years old. In places, you can spot medieval repairs right alongside the Roman work—a real patchwork of centuries.
One of the coolest discoveries is the public bath house. Archaeologists have uncovered heated rooms, furnaces, and heaps of old roof tiles. Pottery, tools, and coins keep popping up, especially in digs near the cathedral and the cloister garden.
Roman Legions, Fortifications, and Excavations
The Second Augustan Legion built Exeter’s first major fort. Their soldiers threw up ramparts, ditches, and sturdy gates, holding the area for Rome.
Recent excavations have turned up fragments of Roman streets and timber buildings buried under the city. Archaeologists have also found the foundations of big structures—warehouses, maybe—hinting at how the city grew after the military left.
Excavations in Cathedral Close and other spots have revealed layers from both Roman and medieval times. I love how archaeologists can spot when someone reused Roman pottery or stones in later buildings.
Roman Influence on Modern Exeter
Even now, you can see the Roman influence everywhere in Exeter. The street grid, the city walls, the odd bit of Roman masonry peeking out—they all shape the city’s look and feel.
The layout of the old Roman city still guides where roads and buildings go. Exeter Cathedral actually sits above ancient Roman remains, and a lot of artifacts from local digs end up at the Royal Albert Memorial Museum.
I noticed plaques and info signs marking key Roman sites, making it easy for anyone to connect with the city’s ancient roots. Exeter’s commitment to preserving this history brings the past to life for locals and visitors alike.
From Medieval Power to Modern Charm: Exeter’s Storied Streets
In Exeter, every brick and alleyway tells a story. The city’s rulers, wars, and dramatic events left their mark, and you can see it all just by walking around. Ancient walls, castles, and religious sites tie the medieval past to the city’s vibrant present.
William the Conqueror and the Norman Conquest
After 1066, Exeter’s fate shifted dramatically. William the Conqueror rolled in after his win at Hastings. The city resisted for a bit, but the Normans soon took over.
William ordered Rougemont Castle built to lock down his new territory. That move turned Exeter into a crucial stronghold during the Norman Conquest. Stonework from that time still forms part of the city’s oldest buildings. The medieval street plan and cathedral layout echo the changes made under Norman rule, blending with later styles in a way that gives Exeter its unique character.
Rougemont Castle and the English Civil War
Standing at Rougemont Castle’s gatehouse, I tried to picture the chaos that once filled these grounds. Built right after the Norman Conquest, the castle became a focal point for Exeter’s defenses.
By the 1600s, the castle found itself tangled up in the English Civil War. Royalists and Parliamentarians fought over control, and in 1646, Rougemont Castle endured a siege. Its walls held firm, and the city saw its share of battles and drama.
Today, the castle’s remains blend into city gardens and walkways. I followed the old curtain wall, reading plaques that explained what went down during those tense years. The mix of daily life and ancient stones makes Exeter’s history feel real and close.
City Wall Walks and St Catherine’s Chapel & Almshouse
I strolled along the city walls, picturing how they once protected Exeter from danger. The walls started as Roman fortifications, but most of what stands now is medieval. Information panels point out old towers and gates, helping you imagine the city’s defenses in action.
Nearby, I ducked into St Catherine’s Chapel & Almshouse. Built in the late Middle Ages, it offered shelter to the city’s elderly and poor. The thick stone walls and tiny windows tell a quieter story—one of charity and care in tough times.
This spot feels like a peaceful break from the busy city. The chapel and almshouse are rare survivors from medieval Exeter, showing how people balanced defense, faith, and community through the ages.
Cultural Scene & Art: Museums, Festivals, and Theatre
Exeter doesn’t just rest on its history. The city buzzes with art, music, and performance. Museums, festivals, and theaters keep the cultural scene lively all year round.
Royal Albert Memorial Museum and RAMM
I kicked off my cultural tour at the Royal Albert Memorial Museum—locals just call it RAMM. The Victorian building itself is a stunner, and inside, the collections range from local history to treasures from around the world.
Galleries brim with art, ancient artifacts, and natural history. You’ll find Roman relics, Egyptian pieces, and some impressive paintings. Interactive exhibits make it fun for kids and adults.
What really impressed me? RAMM constantly changes things up with new exhibitions. There’s always something fresh to see, and the museum runs workshops, talks, and community events that draw people in from all over.
Exeter Festival and Seasonal Events
Every summer, the Exeter Festival takes over the city. Streets fill with live music, performances, outdoor movies, and food stalls. I wandered from stage to stage, checking out local artists and family activities.
But it’s not just a summer thing. Exeter hosts Christmas markets, cultural fairs, literary festivals, and more throughout the year. Music and art events pop up everywhere, giving the city a creative energy you can’t miss.
I love how these events showcase local talent. You get to see Devon’s artists and performers up close, whether it’s poetry readings, pop-up galleries, or food festivals. Exeter really puts its culture front and center for everyone—locals and visitors alike.
Northcott Theatre and Art Spaces
I caught a show at the Northcott Theatre, which is probably Exeter’s main spot for live performances. It sits right on the University of Exeter’s campus, and you’ll find everything from big-name plays and comedy to dance and musicals on the schedule.
What really stood out to me was how the theatre gets behind new writers and local talent. I spotted posters everywhere for workshops, community events, and touring productions. The Northcott isn’t just about buying a ticket and sitting in the dark—it feels like a place where creativity just sort of spills out and everyone’s invited.
Exeter isn’t short on smaller galleries and indie art spaces either. I wandered into Exeter Phoenix, which had live music, art shows, and even film screenings. These places keep the city’s creative pulse going, and honestly, there’s always something unexpected to stumble into.
Exploring Exeter: Walking Tours, Markets, and Riverside Leisure
Exeter mixes up history, local flavor, and chances to get outside. I found myself bouncing between guided tours, bustling markets, and lazy riverside walks.
Guided Tours and Exeter’s Underground Passages
I joined one of Exeter’s free Red Coat Guided Tours, hoping to dig into the city’s fascinating past. The guides told stories about Roman Exeter, medieval days, and the old wool trade. The Old and New Exeter tour helped me see how much the city has shifted over time.
Then came the Underground Passages—honestly, I didn’t expect to find medieval tunnels right under the city. People built these to bring in fresh water centuries ago. Walking through those narrow, echoing corridors gave me a real sense of what life used to be like here.
If you’d rather explore on your own, the city’s dotted with info boards that make self-guided historic walks easy. The Exeter Medieval Trail and Exeter Woollen Trail are both worth a wander.
Exeter Farmers’ Market, High Street, and Princesshay
On Thursdays, I wandered through the Exeter Farmers’ Market on Fore Street. Stalls piled high with fresh bread, cheeses, veggies, and local meats tempted me at every turn. I loved chatting with the farmers and tasting a bit of everything.
High Street is the city’s main shopping drag. It’s always buzzing, packed with both big brands and quirky local shops. I found myself ducking into little bookstores and indie cafes all within a few minutes’ walk.
Princesshay, right by the Cathedral, feels modern and open—plazas, shops, restaurants, the works. It’s a nice spot to grab a coffee or just people-watch for a bit.
| Market & Shopping Area | Specialty |
|---|---|
| Exeter Farmers’ Market | Local food and produce |
| High Street | Shopping and cafes |
| Princesshay | Modern shops and restaurants |
Leisure at the Quayside and the River Exe
Exeter’s Quayside oozes character. Old warehouses now hold pubs, shops, and studios. I strolled along the cobbles by the River Exe, watching kayakers glide past and soaking up the laid-back vibe.
The Ship Inn claims to be one of Exeter’s oldest pubs, and I believe it. Its timbered rooms are cozy, perfect for a pint. On sunny days, sitting outside and watching the river life drift by just feels right.
You can hop on a boat trip from the quay or rent a bike nearby to explore more of the riverside. I noticed plenty of ice cream stands and shaded benches if you just want to hang out.
Exeter Green Circle and Cycling
The Exeter Green Circle surprised me—a 12-mile loop for walking and cycling that weaves through parks, nature reserves, and neighborhoods. I followed signs through Mincinglake Valley Park, then down to Ludwell Valley where wildflowers and birds seemed to be everywhere.
The trail is well-marked, and you can jump on or off near the city center. For cyclists, dedicated paths run along the River Exe. I grabbed a rental bike at the Quayside and pedaled out toward little villages and rolling countryside. The views are lovely, and the route feels calm even if you’re not a confident cyclist.
Travel, Accommodation, and Planning Your Visit
Getting to Exeter was refreshingly easy. Trains, planes, and roads all connect here, so you’ve got options. I found accommodation for every taste and budget, and the city’s year-round buzz means there’s always something happening. I also made time for a quick trip to Topsham—worth it if you can squeeze it in.
Getting to Exeter: Train, Air, and Local Transport
I took the train, which dropped me at Exeter St Davids—the main station. It’s got direct lines to London, Bristol, and other big cities, so you’re covered. If you’re flying, Exeter Airport runs regular flights from around the UK and Europe. There’s a handy bus between the airport and the city center.
Getting around Exeter itself is easy. Local buses go everywhere, and taxis aren’t hard to find. I walked almost everywhere, especially in the center, since most sights are close together. If you want to explore more of Devon, renting a car gives you the freedom to roam charming villages at your own pace.
| Mode | Details | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Train | Direct to Exeter St Davids | Good for city visits |
| Air | Exeter Airport, bus to city center | Useful for overseas |
| Local Transport | Buses, taxis, walking | Walking is convenient |
Where to Stay: Accommodation Options
Exeter’s got a huge range of places to stay. Modern hotels like the Mercure and Premier Inn sit right in the center, making it easy to reach shops and the cathedral. If you want something with more character, try a bed and breakfast in a historic building.
Hostels and guesthouses offer budget options, and if you prefer your own space, there are apartments to rent—especially around the Quayside. I found that booking early helped, especially if you’re visiting during festivals or holidays.
Accommodation types I considered:
- Hotels: Central, comfortable, and have all the basics.
- Bed & Breakfasts: Cozy, usually with a homemade breakfast.
- Guesthouses and Hostels: Friendly and easy on the wallet.
- Serviced Apartments: Handy for longer stays or if you’re with family.
Seasonal Highlights: Spring, Summer, Autumn, Winter, and Christmas Market
Exeter changes with the seasons, and I loved that about it. In spring, flowers pop up everywhere—Rougemont Gardens and the city wall look especially pretty. Summer means festivals, river walks, and café terraces buzzing with people.
Autumn brings crunchy leaves along the Exe and quieter streets, which I actually enjoyed. Winter felt cozy, especially in the city’s historic pubs and cafes. The Christmas Market by the cathedral was magical—twinkling lights, festive food, and that holiday feeling in the air.
Seasonal experiences:
- Spring: Gardens, walking tours.
- Summer: Festivals, river activities.
- Autumn: Leafy walks, quieter city.
- Winter: Christmas Market, warm pubs.
Nearby Destinations: Topsham and Devon
I hopped on a short train ride over to Topsham, a little town just outside Exeter. The riverside walks honestly surprised me—they felt peaceful, and the independent shops had a quirky charm.
I couldn’t resist stopping at one of Topsham’s waterfront pubs. They served up local seafood, and wow, it was fresh and flavorful.
Venturing deeper into Devon, I stumbled across rolling countryside and dramatic coastlines. Dartmoor National Park sits nearby, practically begging for a hike or two.
If you’re craving some sea air, the beaches along South Devon aren’t far. You can reach them by train or car, whichever suits your mood.
Exploring these spots really opened my eyes to how much more Devon has up its sleeve than just Exeter. There’s a lot waiting just beyond the city limits.
