Picture yourself weaving through narrow cobblestone lanes, where ancient walls whisper tales of pirates and resilience. Geometric black-and-white patterns leap across old facades, and the scent of mastic hangs in the air.
The mastic villages of Mesta and Pyrgi on Chios are something else. Here, medieval traditions aren’t just museum pieces—they’re alive, woven into daily life and the architecture itself.
These two villages sit at the heart of Chios’ UNESCO-recognized mastic culture. Mesta charms with its tangled, fortress-like streets, while Pyrgi dazzles with its wild “xysta” patterns painted on nearly every house.
Let’s wander together through these living labyrinths. There’s so much to see—ancient churches, secret alleys, local flavors, and stories behind those iconic painted walls. If you’re craving a real slice of Greece’s most unique villages, this is it.
Exploring Mesta: Chios’ Enchanting Medieval Labyrinth
Mesta stands out as one of Greece’s best-preserved medieval settlements. Locals built it like a fortress, with houses forming solid protective walls.
You’ll find 14th-century stone-paved streets that twist and turn into a maze. This wasn’t just for show—it was clever defense against invaders and a way to protect the precious mastic trade.
Defensive Architecture and Urban Layout
Mesta’s pentagonal layout really impressed me with its military logic. You’ll find it 35 kilometers southwest of Chios town, perched at 120 meters above sea level.
Genoese architects designed the houses without exterior windows. Each stone home connects directly to its neighbor, forming a seamless defensive wall.
Small towers mark the corners. These watchtowers gave villagers a heads-up when pirates approached.
In the heart of the village, locals gather in a square they call “the meadow.” It’s a safe, social hub.
The houses lean close, sharing walls. This not only saved stone but also made the whole place stronger.
Pirates tried their luck here plenty of times. But Mesta’s maze-like defenses usually sent them packing.
Labyrinthine Alleys and Hidden Passages
The alleys here? They’re a real puzzle. Stone paths snake between the houses, often looping back or ending in dead ends.
Covered passages, or “domes,” link the buildings above the street. Villagers could slip through these secret walkways during attacks.
You can duck under arches and wander through tunnels that have stood for centuries.
Some alleys are so narrow, you have to walk single file. Others suddenly open onto tiny courtyards.
The layout hasn’t really changed since medieval times. Restoration efforts kept the original stonework and quirky dimensions.
Preserved Medieval Traditions and Festivals
Mesta still thrives on its mastic cultivation—a tradition UNESCO recognized. Families here have grown and harvested mastic for generations.
Every autumn, the village lights up with festivals celebrating the mastic harvest. Locals demonstrate how they carefully cut the tree bark to collect the resin.
The sticky sap turns into prized spice and medicine.
The Church of Palios Taxiarchis anchors village life. Built around 1412, it’s home to stunning frescoes and a hand-carved iconostasis from 1833.
During Christmas, the central square fills with carols, folk music, and communal feasts.
You can watch locals make spooned sweets with old family recipes. The taverns serve up dishes flavored with mastic—tastes that really do feel medieval.
Fortified Beauty: Pyrgi and the Art of Painted Houses
Pyrgi is probably the most eye-catching village on Chios. Here, black-and-white geometric patterns swirl across the houses in a style called “xysta.”
The village’s defensive layout and urban planning reflect centuries of Genoese influence, always preparing for the next pirate raid.
The Unique ‘Xysta’ Geometric Facades
Those painted houses? They’re a work of art. Xysta is the technique where artisans scratch geometric patterns into wet plaster, then fill them with black and white pigments.
Triangles, diamonds, and interlocking shapes cover entire facades. It’s not just for looks—the patterns also protect the stone from the elements.
I always find myself staring at the details. Each house has its own twist, but together they create a crazy, beautiful harmony.
Local craftsmen still keep the tradition alive, passing down skills from one generation to the next.
Genoese Influence and Village Defenses
Pyrgi’s medieval layout is pure strategy. Genoese rulers shaped the village into a fortress, with houses linked to form a defensive ring.
At the center, you’ll spot an 18-meter tower—the village’s main stronghold. Four smaller towers anchor the corners.
This design protected everyone from pirates, with continuous walls and very few weak spots.
Narrow passages and stone buildings made it even harder for attackers to get in. Villagers could slip between homes without stepping outside.
Genoese influence didn’t stop at defense. Some say those geometric patterns may have roots in Italian traditions.
Pyrgi’s Urban Planning and Tower Houses
Pyrgi’s streets form a maze that still baffles outsiders. Locals, though, know every shortcut.
Stone-paved alleys wind between the houses. In summer, the close quarters create cool shade and channel breezes through the village.
Tower houses rise above the rest—multi-story homes that doubled as lookout posts.
You’ll need to park outside and explore on foot. That’s part of the charm, and it helps preserve the old stone streets.
Central squares offer spots to gather, shop, or just watch village life unfold. The layout strikes a balance between privacy and community connection.
The Heart of the Mastic Villages: Culture, Heritage, and Living History
Chios’ mastic villages keep a centuries-old tradition alive. The Chios Mastic Museum gives visitors a real sense of what makes this culture so special.
Mastic Cultivation and UNESCO Recognition
The mastic tradition here landed on UNESCO’s Intangible Cultural Heritage list. That’s a big deal, and it’s well deserved.
There are 24 villages in southern Chios still producing mastic. The Ministry of Culture even designated them as traditional or listed villages.
Some standouts are:
- Mesta – the best-preserved fortress village
- Pyrgi – famous for its decorated facades
- Armolia – traditional mastic producer
- Kalamoti – active cultivation center
The mastic tree only grows in this corner of Chios. Families pass down the harvesting secrets, carefully scoring the bark to collect the resin.
This tradition goes back to the 14th century. Both Byzantine and Genoese rulers valued these villages for their mastic.
Image Source: Tripadvisor
Chios Mastic Museum Experience
The Chios Mastic Museum sits right in the Mastichochoria complex. It’s a hands-on place to learn about mastic from tree to table.
Inside, you’ll find traditional tools and displays that show how families harvest and process the resin. You can follow the whole journey from cutting the tree to the finished product.
The museum itself feels part of the story. It’s surrounded by the same villages where mastic is still a way of life.
Exhibits explain why the villages needed such strong defenses—pirates often tried to steal the mastic trade. Mesta’s walls weren’t just for show.
Architectural and Religious Highlights Across the Villages
The medieval villages show off some incredible religious architecture. Ancient Byzantine churches with vivid frescoes are everywhere.
The woodcarving and iconostasis work here? It’s next-level craftsmanship, still thriving after centuries.
Church of Palios Taxiarchis and Frescoes
The Church of Palios Taxiarchis stands out as one of the most important religious sites in the mastic villages. This 13th-century Byzantine church is packed with frescoes that tell stories from medieval Christian art.
The walls burst with color—scenes painted in the classic Byzantine style. It’s wild how well they’ve survived.
The architecture has all the hallmarks: stone walls, arched doorways, and that unmistakable sense of stepping back in time.
What you’ll notice:
- 13th-century Byzantine construction
- Gorgeous, well-preserved frescoes
- Classic stonework and arches
The frescoes inside show biblical scenes and saints that matter to the local community. Many folks say these are some of the finest medieval religious paintings on Chios.
Woodcarving, Iconostasis, and Local Artistry
Step inside Mesta’s churches and you’ll see incredible wooden iconostasis screens. Local artisans carved these intricate barriers, separating the nave from the altar.
The detail is stunning—religious icons, geometric patterns, floral designs, all carved by hand.
Traditional touches include:
- Hand-carved icons
- Geometric and floral motifs
- Sacred symbols
Some iconostasis pieces are centuries old, showing off the skill and devotion of medieval artisans.
Even now, craftsmen in Mesta keep these traditions alive, carving new pieces with the same old methods.
Beyond Mesta & Pyrgi: Discovering the Southern Villages of Chios
Southern Chios hides other gems, each with its own vibe. I found four villages especially worth a detour.
From pottery in Armolia to dramatic ruins in Anavatos, these spots reveal different layers of island life.
Armolia: Ceramics and Local Craftsmanship
Armolia sits just 20 kilometers from Chios town, making it a perfect jumping-off point for the southern villages.
This place is famous for ceramics. Pottery workshops use techniques passed down through generations.
Image Source: Tripadvisor
I watched artisans shape clay into everything from vases to plates, all by hand.
Why Armolia stands out:
- Traditional workshops you can visit
- Handmade pottery for sale
- Family-run studios keeping old crafts alive
- Easy to reach from Chios town
The atmosphere is laid-back and genuine. You can watch the whole pottery process unfold.
Olympi: Medieval Fortifications and the Agas Festival
Olympi sits between Pyrgi and Mesta, and you can feel the medieval spirit in its narrow streets and central defensive tower.
Stone houses cluster together, forming natural walls just like the other mastic villages.
Olympi highlights:
- Central medieval tower
- Intact fortified layout
- Mix of old and new architecture
In summer, Olympi throws the Agas Festival—a lively celebration with folk music, dancing, and plenty of local food.
Kambos: Mansions and Noble Heritage
Kambos shows a different side of Chios. Here, grand mansions built by merchant families line quiet lanes.
High walls, ornate gates, and private courtyards give the area an aristocratic feel.
Image Source: Wikimedia Commons
Many mansions date back to the 14th–19th centuries, when Chios thrived as a trading hub.
I wandered past citrus groves and old wells, soaking up the peace and elegance.
Kambos features:
- Historic mansions
- Citrus gardens
- Stone-walled estates
- Tranquil, rural atmosphere
Anavatos: Legends and the Cliffside Village
Anavatos gave me one of those heart-thumping moments you just don’t forget. This abandoned village hangs stubbornly to a cliff, earning the name “Mystras of the Aegean.” Honestly, it looks like something out of a legend.
I wound my way up narrow paths, squeezing between crumbling stone houses that once echoed with life. Centuries ago, hundreds of people called this place home—until Ottoman attacks in 1822 changed everything. Now, silence and wind rule the ruins.
From up here, the views just go on and on. You can spot the southern coastline and even glimpse neighboring islands if the weather’s clear. I stumbled across a partially restored Byzantine church, then poked around the remains of homes carved straight into the rock.
What to expect:
- A steep, sometimes tricky uphill climb
- Sweeping views of Chios and beyond
- Ghostly ruins of stone houses
- Stories and legends that linger in the stones
Loose rocks and sheer drops mean you’ll want to watch your step. Trust me—good shoes and lots of water make the adventure a lot more enjoyable.
Traditional Flavors and Local Experiences
The mastic villages? They serve up some of the most memorable flavors on the island. Locals pour their hearts into every meal and drink, sticking to recipes and traditions that haven’t changed much in generations.
You’ll find spirits like souma, sweet treats, and those warm, genuine welcomes that make you feel like you belong—even if you’re just passing through.
Mesta Wine and the Local ‘Souma’
Let’s talk about souma. This is Chios’ signature spirit, and it packs a punch—40-45% alcohol, but surprisingly smooth and a little fruity.
In Mesta, I watched families distill souma in copper stills, using grape pomace from the autumn harvest. It’s a tradition that’s survived for ages, and you can feel the pride in every glass.
Where to Try Souma:
- Cozy kafeneions (old-school coffee houses)
- Family tavernas where everyone seems to know each other
- Village festivals, if you’re lucky with your timing
Pair souma with meze—think local cheeses, olives, and whatever’s fresh that day. Sometimes, villagers invite you in for a taste right at their kitchen table. That’s the real magic.
Chios makes small batches of wine from native grapes, too. These bottles go perfectly with seafood or a hearty meat dish, and you won’t find them anywhere else.
Gastronomy and Spoon Sweets
Mastic is everywhere here—ice cream, cookies, even liqueur. It’s such a unique flavor, almost piney but sweet, and totally addictive.
Traditional Spoon Sweets Include:
- Preserves with that unmistakable mastic aroma
- Figs and almonds, candied and rich
- Delicate rose petal sweets
- Quince preserves, tart and sweet at once
Image Source: Amazon
Tavernas keep things simple and delicious. I tried revithada (a comforting chickpea stew) and super-fresh seafood caught just off the coast. The food here lets the ingredients shine.
Local bakeries fill the air with the scent of fresh bread and pastries. If you get a chance, try the honey—it’s often blended with mastic, and honestly, I’ve never tasted anything quite like it anywhere else in Greece.
Cafés, Tavernas, and Hospitality
Village kafeneions are the heart of local life. You’ll spot folks drifting in at all hours, chatting over coffee at marble-topped tables surrounded by vintage décor.
In Mesta, I’ve noticed taverna owners love to cook up family recipes—some of which have been in their families forever. Sometimes, the owners even pull up a chair and join you for a chat, which always feels a bit special.
Typical Taverna Experience:
- Family-style service that feels warm and welcoming
- Dishes made with fresh, local ingredients
- That unmistakable Greek hospitality
- Prices that won’t make your wallet cry (unlike some touristy spots)
Most places stay open all year, which means you’ll find a mix of locals and travelers no matter when you visit. Meals tend to linger, and nobody’s in a rush—honestly, it’s the perfect excuse to slow down and soak up the vibe.
Hospitality here goes way beyond the food. Locals will happily share stories about their medieval village or the mastic traditions that make this place unique. Sometimes, you’ll leave a meal with more than just a full stomach—maybe a new friend or two.
