Nestled on Sardinia’s northeastern coast, Olbia instantly drew me in as soon as I stepped off the plane.
This port city is so much more than just a stopover—it’s truly the gateway to some of Italy’s most dazzling coastal gems.
Olbia puts you right next to the legendary Costa Smeralda, a coastline celebrated for its turquoise waters and powdery white beaches.
Last summer, I wandered Olbia’s historic center before heading off to explore the Costa Smeralda.
The Greeks called Olbia “the happy city,” and honestly, it fits.
You get a mix of modern comforts and old-world charm here, and that makes Olbia a perfect base for discovering northeastern Sardinia.
From Olbia, I reached the glamorous Costa Smeralda with just a short drive.
This coastline sparkles with luxury, but it’s not only for the rich and famous—anyone can enjoy its beauty.
There’s something special about the contrast between Olbia’s authentic Italian vibe and the glitzy resorts along the Emerald Coast.
It’s the kind of mix that sticks in your memory long after you leave.
Olbia: The Welcoming Gateway to Northeastern Sardinia
Olbia blends ancient character with modern energy, greeting travelers as they arrive in northeastern Sardinia.
The city gives you great transport links, layers of history, and a perfect jumping-off point for the Costa Smeralda.
A Brief History of Olbia
Olbia’s roots stretch back to about 3000 BC, but the city really took off in Phoenician and Roman times.
I found it fascinating that “Olbia” comes from the Greek word for “happy”—it’s such a fitting name.
As you walk the center, ancient ruins pop up everywhere, showing off Olbia’s strategic role over the centuries.
You’ll spot the Punic-Roman necropolis and the medieval San Simplicio Basilica, both whispering stories from the past.
What really caught me off guard was how Olbia grew from a quiet fishing village into a lively port city.
Now, the city keeps its historic soul while acting as a modern travel hub, never losing that unmistakable Sardinian feel.
Getting to Olbia: Air, Land, and Sea
Olbia Costa Smeralda Airport is where most people arrive, with plenty of airlines flying in from big European cities.
In summer, flights ramp up to handle the crowds.
Prefer the sea? Olbia’s port greets ferries from mainland Italy, mainly Civitavecchia, Genoa, and Livorno.
Honestly, the ferry ride felt like a mini-adventure in itself.
Private jets land at the airport too, and lately, I’ve seen more travelers go this route for direct access to the Costa Smeralda.
Olbia connects by train to Cagliari and other island towns, but the service is a bit limited compared to the mainland.
Getting Around: Car Hire and Transportation Tips
Renting a car gives you the most freedom to explore Sardinia’s northeastern coast.
All the big car rental brands are at Olbia Airport, but I’d book ahead, especially during the busy summer months.
If you’re picking a car, go for something compact—those coastal roads are narrow, and parking gets tricky in small towns.
I learned that the hard way when I tried to wrangle a bigger car!
Public buses run between Olbia and nearby towns and beaches, but the schedules can be pretty sparse.
Inside Olbia, the ASPO bus network works well if you’re sticking around the city.
For a different view, hop on a boat tour from Olbia’s marina.
You’ll see the coastline from a totally new angle—trust me, it’s worth it.
Exploring the Charms and Landmarks of Olbia
Olbia is packed with historical sites that reveal Sardinia’s rich story.
As I wandered the city, I found ancient treasures sitting comfortably beside lively Mediterranean streets.
Basilica of San Simplicio
The Basilica of San Simplicio stands out as Olbia’s top religious landmark.
Built in the 11th and 12th centuries, this Romanesque church honors the city’s patron saint, martyred in Roman times.
The basilica’s simple granite structure caught my eye right away.
You won’t find much decoration outside—just clean lines and that classic Pisan-Romanesque style.
Inside, three naves stretch out, held up by columns.
Some of these columns were actually taken from old Roman buildings, which adds even more history to the place.
Every May, the Festival of San Simplicio brings the area to life.
Locals fill the square for religious processions, music, and—of course—loads of Sardinian food.
Museo Archeologico
The Archaeological Museum of Olbia (Museo Archeologico) displays artifacts that piece together the city’s ancient story.
You’ll find it on Peddone island, packed with items from prehistory through the Middle Ages.
My favorite part? The Roman ships pulled from Olbia’s harbor.
These ships date back to the 2nd century BCE and give you a peek into ancient sea trade.
The museum lays everything out by time period, so it’s easy to follow Olbia’s journey.
Interactive displays and detailed info panels help make sense of what you’re seeing.
Definitely check out the everyday objects—pottery, jewelry, tools, and weapons.
They bring ancient Olbia to life in a way that’s hard to describe.
Nuraghe and Ancient Monuments
The countryside around Olbia hides nuraghi—mysterious stone towers built by the Nuragic civilization between 1800 and 500 BCE.
You’ll only find these unique structures in Sardinia, and they’re absolutely fascinating.
I’d suggest visiting Nuraghe Riu Mulinu on Cabu Abbas hill.
From up there, you get sweeping views of the Gulf of Olbia and a close look at a well-preserved nuragic site.
Just north of Olbia, the Sacred Well of Sa Testa stands as another ancient marvel.
This Bronze Age water temple impresses with its stonework and sense of mystery.
If you’re into ancient history, the Tomb of Giants at Su Monte de s’Abe is worth a stop.
These megalithic graves have distinct curved fronts and long burial chambers, hinting at the island’s old rituals.
Costa Smeralda: Where Luxury Meets Nature
Costa Smeralda runs along northeastern Sardinia, blending jaw-dropping scenery with high-end luxury.
I’ve always thought this place balances emerald waters with elegant resorts, drawing everyone from celebrities to travelers just looking for something special.
Porto Cervo: Glamour on the Coast
Porto Cervo claims the spotlight as Costa Smeralda’s crown jewel.
Prince Karim Aga Khan created it in the 1960s, and walking the marina, I can’t help but gawk at the superyachts moored there.
The town’s center is all Mediterranean curves and pastel colors, blending into the landscape.
Boutique shopping here is next-level—Prada, Gucci, Louis Vuitton, you name it.
I love stopping in the Piazzetta, the main square, for espresso and people-watching.
You’ll see the chic crowd pass by, and just nearby, the Stella Maris Church offers a peaceful escape with its understated style.
For beach days, Pevero Beach is close by, showing off soft sand and crystal waters that look straight out of a travel ad.
Porto Rotondo: Elegance by the Sea
Head just south of Porto Cervo, and you’ll find Porto Rotondo.
It’s a bit more laid-back but still radiates style.
The perfectly round marina is a real highlight, filled with everything from fishing boats to luxury yachts.
The heart of town is Piazza San Marco, lined with cafés and artisan shops.
San Lorenzo Church is worth a look, especially for its doors carved by Mario Ceroli.
Beach fans will like Marinella Beach, with its gentle slope into the sea—ideal for families.
The surrounding Mediterranean shrubs add a fresh scent to the air, making sunbathing even better.
In the evenings, stroll the harbor promenade for sunset views.
If you time it right, you might catch a summer cultural event at the waterfront amphitheater—those nights are something else.
Beach Escapes and Scenic Landscapes
Olbia’s coastline lays out some of the Mediterranean’s most breathtaking beaches and landscapes.
White sand and turquoise water meet at almost every turn, creating scenes you’ll want to photograph again and again.
Spiaggia del Principe
I stumbled onto Spiaggia del Principe on my second day in Costa Smeralda, and it instantly became my top pick.
Prince Karim Aga Khan loved this spot back in the ‘60s, and honestly, it’s easy to see why.
The cove forms a horseshoe, protected by pink granite rocks and clusters of juniper.
The sand feels like powdered sugar under your feet.
The water is so clear you can see fish darting around your ankles, even waist-deep.
Because the slope is gentle, families love it here.
To get to the beach, park in the lot and follow the short path through fragrant shrubs.
If you’re coming in July or August, arrive early—the parking fills up fast.
Cala di Volpe and Marinella
Cala di Volpe wowed me with its shallow, blue-green bay.
The famous Hotel Cala di Volpe sits here, and you’ll often spot celebrity yachts gliding in.
The beach stays quieter than some others, making it a peaceful escape.
I spent an afternoon just floating in the warm water, watching boats drift by.
Not far away, Marinella Beach stretches out with golden sand and great amenities.
Beach clubs rent loungers and umbrellas, and you can order food right to your spot.
For families, Marinella is a winner—gentle waves and shallow water make it safe for kids.
If you’re into water sports, vendors rent paddleboards, kayaks, and jet skis along the shore.
Tavolara Island Adventures
A boat trip to Tavolara Island ended up being the highlight of my trip.
This giant limestone mountain shoots up from the sea, reaching 565 meters at its highest point.
From Olbia’s port, I booked a day tour that looped around the island and stopped at Spalmatore di Terra beach.
The sand is pristine, and the water is a shade of blue that almost doesn’t look real—a true hidden paradise.
Snorkeling here was unreal.
The protected marine area bursts with colorful fish, seagrass, and wild rock formations.
If you’re up for it, hiking trails climb the mountain.
Even halfway up, you get sweeping views of northeastern Sardinia’s coastline.
Don’t skip lunch at the family-run restaurant—they serve seafood caught that same morning, and it’s as fresh as it gets.
Nightlife, Culture, and Insider Experiences
Once the sun sets, Olbia comes alive with a social buzz that matches its daytime energy.
The city’s culture offers genuine Sardinian experiences—food, festivals, and local traditions that many visitors overlook.
Olbia’s Bustling Nightlife
Olbia’s nightlife honestly surprised me.
Corso Umberto, the historic center’s main drag, transforms after dark into a lively stretch of outdoor cafés and bars.
Locals and visitors crowd the sidewalks, swapping stories under the stars.
Evenings start late here—dinner before 8:30 PM is rare, and clubs don’t get busy until after midnight.
For cocktails with a view, Ritual Rooftop Bar is my go-to.
I love sipping Mirto and watching the sun dip behind the harbor.
Nearby, Porto Rotondo and Porto Cervo turn up the glamour with upscale nightlife.
During summer, these Costa Smeralda hotspots draw celebrities and yacht owners to clubs like Phi Beach and Billionaire.
Local Traditions and Cuisine
Sardinian cuisine offers so much more than your standard Italian dishes. Every plate seems to carry a bit of the island’s rustic past.
In Olbia’s trattorias, I tried culurgiones—these stuffed pasta dumplings surprised me—and porceddu, which is slow-roasted suckling pig. Cannonau wine, with its bold flavor, made the meal feel even more authentic.
I wanted to get a sense of local life, so I showed up during La Festa di San Simplicio in May. The whole town honors Olbia’s patron saint with lively processions and people dressed in traditional costumes.
Folk musicians play launeddas, those haunting ancient reed instruments. The music lingers in the air long after the parade ends.
The local markets gave me another peek into daily Sardinian culture. At Mercato di San Benedetto, farmers offered pecorino cheese and pane carasau, a thin crisp bread.
They also sold bottarga—cured fish roe, if you’re brave enough to try it. I loved chatting with them; they explained their production methods with a kind of pride that’s hard to miss.
Day Trips to Cagliari and Beyond
Cagliari sits on the opposite end of the island—about a three-hour drive from where I started. Still, I made the trek and honestly, I think it was worth it just to see Sardinia’s capital for myself.
The drive cuts through a wild mix of mountains and valleys. You get a real sense of how diverse the interior landscape feels.
Once in Cagliari, I wandered around the medieval Castello quarter. Its narrow streets twist between old stone buildings, and the bastions give you these sweeping views that are hard to forget.
I checked out the Roman amphitheater and popped into the National Archaeological Museum. Both spots really put Sardinia’s ancient history front and center, stretching back thousands of years.
If you’re staying closer to Olbia, I’d say don’t skip La Maddalena Archipelago. You can catch a ferry from Palau, which is only about 30 minutes from Olbia.
Those islands blew me away with their crystal-clear water and those famous pink beaches. I spent the whole day hopping from one island to another—and, honestly, even in the middle of summer, it felt way less crowded than Costa Smeralda.
