Imagine standing in an ancient Italian town square as enormous wooden structures, each topped with a saint’s statue, are carried at breakneck speed up a mountain path. This isn’t your typical festival—it’s the Festa dei Ceri in Gubbio, Umbria, where teams race three massive “candles” (which aren’t actually candles but wooden pillars) through narrow medieval streets and up to the Basilica of Saint Ubaldo. The most incredible part is watching these teams sprint uphill carrying structures weighing hundreds of pounds, completing the mountain climb in just nine minutes.
My first time witnessing this centuries-old tradition left me breathless. I was out of breath from climbing the steep pathways of Gubbio to find a good viewing spot and from the sheer excitement of the event. The energy is contagious as locals cheer for their favorite team: Saint Ubaldo, Saint George, or Saint Anthony. Unlike most races, winning isn’t about crossing the finish line first but about keeping your team’s candle the most upright during the frenzied journey.
If you’re planning a trip to Italy, timing your visit to Gubbio for this May 15th celebration offers a rare glimpse into authentic Italian culture far from the tourist crowds of Rome or Florence. The narrow streets of this medieval town become a vibrant stage for one of Italy’s oldest and most passionate traditions.
Come early to secure a spot along the race route, wear comfortable shoes for the hilly terrain, and prepare to be swept up in the joyful madness of this uniquely Umbrian celebration.
History and Significance of the Candle Festival
The Candle Festival of Gubbio stands as one of Italy’s most ancient traditions, with roots possibly dating back to pagan times. Its rich history weaves through Roman influences, medieval celebrations, and continues as a vibrant tradition today.
Ancient Origins and Roman Traditions
The exact beginnings of the Candle Race remain somewhat mysterious, but many historians believe it may have started as a pagan celebration connected to spring rituals. These early ceremonies likely celebrated fertility and the rebirth of the earth after winter.
When I visited Gubbio, locals told me how Roman influence shaped many aspects of the festival we see today. The Romans, who controlled this region for centuries, had similar spring celebrations honoring their gods. As Christianity spread through the Roman Empire, many pagan traditions were adapted rather than eliminated. This pattern of cultural adaptation is something I noticed throughout Umbria’s festivals.
The giant wooden structures carried during the race may have originally represented something entirely different in these ancient times.
Medieval Pageantry and Gubbio’s Identity
By the 12th century, the festival had transformed into a Christian celebration. Historical records show it commemorates Saint Ubaldo Baldassini, Gubbio’s beloved bishop who died in 1160. Walking through Gubbio’s medieval streets, I could almost feel how deeply this tradition has shaped the city’s identity.
The race represents three important social groups from medieval times:
- Saint Ubaldo: Patron of masons and represents the clergy
- Saint George: Patron of merchants and craftsmen
- Saint Anthony: Patron of farmers and peasants
The medieval pageantry includes elaborate costumes, family traditions, and fierce competition between teams. Young men of Gubbio consider participation a rite of passage into manhood. The nobility once played a central role in organizing the festivities, though today all social classes participate equally.
Candle Festival in Modern Times
Since at least the 15th century, the festival has been celebrated annually on May 15th. The “candles” aren’t actually candles but large wooden structures topped with statues of the saints. Each weighs nearly 400 kg and teams race carrying them through Gubbio’s streets and up Mount Ingino.
During my visit, I was amazed by how the entire city transforms for this day. Streets fill with excited locals wearing team colors—yellow for St. Ubaldo, blue for St. George, and black for St. Anthony.
The festival remains remarkably unchanged through centuries, though modern safety measures have been added. Participation still carries immense pride for Gubbio’s families. Many I met could trace their family’s role in the festival back generations.
The celebration brings thousands of tourists to Gubbio each year, yet still feels authentic and deeply connected to the city’s soul.
Exploring Gubbio
Gubbio captivated me with its perfectly preserved medieval charm and stunning mountain backdrop. The ancient stone buildings, narrow winding streets, and rich cultural heritage make this Umbrian gem a place where history feels alive at every turn.
The Architecture of Gubbio
Walking through Gubbio is like stepping into a medieval time capsule. The town’s stone buildings gleam with a silvery-gray hue that changes color throughout the day as the sun moves across the sky.
The Palazzo dei Consoli, a Gothic masterpiece from the 14th century, dominates the main square. Its imposing façade and tall bell tower made my jaw drop when I first saw it. Inside, I discovered the ancient Eugubine Tablets, bronze inscriptions that contain one of the most important documents of ancient Umbrian civilization.
The Cathedral of Santi Mariano e Giacomo blends Romanesque and Gothic styles beautifully. Its stained glass windows cast rainbow patterns across the cool stone floors when the afternoon sun hits them just right. I spent nearly an hour admiring the intricate patterns and biblical scenes depicted in the vibrant glass.
Local Cuisine and Crafts
Gubbio’s food scene combines rustic traditions with sophisticated flavors. Local restaurants serve hearty dishes that have sustained families for generations.
My favorite discovery was crescia, a flatbread stuffed with local cheeses and meats. I paired it with a glass of robust Umbrian red wine at a tiny family-run trattoria. The owner proudly explained that his grandmother had been making crescia using the same recipe for decades.
Ceramics are Gubbio’s most famous craft. The town’s distinctive pottery features lustrous metallic glazes that shimmer in the light. I watched artisans in small workshops skillfully applying ancient techniques passed down through generations. Many studios welcome visitors to observe the process and purchase unique pieces directly from the creators.
Navigating the Medieval Streets
Gubbio’s streets follow the contours of the mountainside, creating a fascinating labyrinth of passages, stairways, and sudden breathtaking vistas. Comfortable shoes are absolutely essential here!
The Via dei Consoli serves as the main artery through town, connecting the lower sections to the upper neighborhoods. Along this route, I found charming shops selling local products tucked into centuries-old buildings with original stone doorways.
For the best views, I climbed to the Basilica of Sant’Ubaldo using the funicular cable car. From this perch, I gazed down at Gubbio’s terracotta rooftops against the green Umbrian countryside. The basilica itself houses the three massive wooden “ceri” (candles) used in the famous May festival.
Don’t miss the quiet backstreets away from the main tourist paths. Here, I encountered friendly locals tending to window boxes bursting with geraniums and herbs, creating splashes of color against the ancient stone.
Pre-Festival Atmosphere and Preparations
The day before Gubbio’s famous Candle Festival buzzes with activity as the entire town prepares for the big event. The medieval streets fill with anticipation as locals ready themselves for their roles in this centuries-old tradition.
Community and Anticipation
Walking through Gubbio the day before the festival, I felt an electric energy unlike anything I’d experienced before. Locals greeted each other with knowing smiles and excited conversations about the coming celebration. Many shops closed early as owners hurried home to prepare their festival attire.
Families gathered in courtyards throughout the old town, sharing meals and stories of festivals past. I was lucky enough to be invited to one such gathering, where three generations sat together preparing symbolic decorations.
“This festival connects us all like a labyrinth with a single path,” an elderly man told me as he carefully arranged yellow and blue ribbons. “No matter where you start, we all end up celebrating together.”
The anticipation was palpable in every narrow street and stone piazza, binding strangers together in shared excitement.
The Making of the Candles
The “candles” of the festival aren’t actually candles at all, but massive wooden structures standing nearly 15 feet tall and weighing hundreds of pounds. I visited the workshop where final preparations were underway.
These structures consist of:
- Wooden octagonal bases
- Tall wooden poles
- Ornate tops featuring saints’ statues
- Colorful decorations in red, yellow, and black
Teams carefully checked every joint and fastening, knowing the structures must withstand a grueling race up Mount Ingino. The craftsmanship displayed incredible attention to detail, with each candle representing one of three saints: Sant’Ubaldo (patron of masons), San Giorgio (patron of merchants), and Sant’Antonio (patron of farmers).
“These candles represent life and death, abundance and sacrifice,” explained one craftsman as he secured a wobbling statue.
The Roles of Participants
The festival divides participants into three teams based on Gubbio’s historic guilds. Each team wears distinct colors: yellow for Sant’Ubaldo, blue for San Giorgio, and black for Sant’Antonio.
I watched as men practiced lifting techniques in smaller groups. The ceraioli (candle-bearers) train year-round for this honor. They must possess extraordinary strength and endurance to carry these massive structures up the steep mountainside at running speed.
Women prepared elaborate meals for the next day, creating traditional dishes that would fuel the participants. Children practiced traditional songs they would sing during the procession.
The captain of each team reviewed procession routes and lifting rotations. Success requires perfect coordination among team members who must seamlessly exchange positions without slowing down.
Friendship between teams remains strong despite fierce competition. “Tomorrow we compete, but tonight we are all Gubbio,” one participant told me.
The Day of the Festival
May 15th in Gubbio transforms the medieval town into a vibrant celebration that dates back to the 12th century. The energy is palpable as locals and visitors gather to witness the spectacular race of enormous wooden structures up Mount Ingino.
Morning Rituals and Blessings
I arrived in Gubbio’s main square at dawn, where the atmosphere was already electric. Three teams gathered around their respective “ceri” – massive wooden structures weighing nearly 400 kg each, topped with statues of Saints Ubaldo, Giorgio, and Antonio.
The morning began with a solemn Mass at the Cathedral. The priest blessed the ceri and the ceraioli (carriers) who would soon undertake this physically demanding tradition. I was moved by the deep connection between faith and community, reminiscent of pilgrimages to Jerusalem in medieval times.
Teams wore distinctive colors: yellow for St. Ubaldo (patron of Gubbio), blue for St. Giorgio, and black for St. Antonio. Many participants traced their family involvement in this tradition back through generations, creating a living link to Renaissance Gubbio.
The Ascent: Racing Up the Mountain
At noon, the square erupted with excitement as drums rolled and trumpets blared. The captains shouted commands, and the teams hoisted their massive ceri onto their shoulders.
“Bià fora!” (Let’s go!) echoed through the crowd. The race began with a dizzying display of coordination as teams sprinted through narrow medieval streets that once witnessed Holy Roman Empire processions.
I followed the crowd up Mount Ingino, amazed at the ceraioli’s strength and endurance. The path grew steeper, yet they maintained their furious pace. The physical challenge seemed almost like a voluntary punishment, a test of devotion to their saints.
Spectators lined the route, cheering their favorite teams. The atmosphere balanced religious reverence with competitive spirit – Saint Ubaldo’s team traditionally finishes first, maintaining the hierarchy of holy protection.
The Celebration’s Crescendo
When the ceri reached the Basilica of St. Ubaldo atop the mountain, the celebration reached its peak. Exhausted but triumphant, the ceraioli embraced amid tears and cheers.
I joined locals at long tables set with feast-day specialties:
- Crescia: flatbread filled with local cheese
- Friccò: mixed meat stew with a Renaissance recipe
- Local wines from Umbrian vineyards
The celebrations continued well into night, with medieval-inspired performances invoking the protection of Archangel Michael. Fireworks illuminated the ancient town walls in a spectacular display.
What struck me most was how this tradition brought theology to life. The festival wasn’t just a tourist attraction but a living expression of Gubbio’s identity, connecting modern participants to centuries of history through shared ritual and celebration.
Cultural Insights and Festival Symbolism
The Ceri Festival in Gubbio represents more than just a thrilling race – it embodies centuries of spiritual devotion, community identity, and cultural resilience. The traditions connect modern participants to their medieval ancestors through shared rituals and symbols.
Exploring Themes of Life and Redemption
The candles themselves symbolize life, death, and spiritual redemption. These are themes central to both Christian belief and human experience.
Saint Ubaldo, the city’s patron, is joined by Saint George and Saint Anthony. Together, they bring protection, courage, and healing.
I noticed how the race mimics life’s journey. It is difficult, requires teamwork, and ultimately leads upward.
This reminded me of pilgrimages to the Holy Sepulchre. Here, faithful travelers seek spiritual renewal.
The ceraioli (candle-bearers) embody sacrifice and devotion. Many told me they train all year for their brief but intense moment carrying the heavy structures.
Their effort honors ancestors who performed these same acts during times of plague and hardship.
Candles, Culture, and Continuity
The festival has survived centuries of change. From the fall of empires to modern globalization.
Walking through Gubbio, I felt echoes of Roman influence and Byzantine artistry. These once flowed from Constantinople and Ravenna.
The celebration creates a living link to medieval Italy. This is when Benedict’s monastic traditions shaped community life.
The candles themselves have evolved from actual wax columns to wooden structures. Yet their symbolic power remains unchanged.
The townspeople describe the festival as their cultural backbone. One elderly ceraiolo told me, “When we race, we aren’t just individuals – we become our ancestors.”
I was struck by how the three teams represent different neighborhoods but unite in devotion to Saint Ubaldo. This balance between competition and unity mirrors the Italian genius for maintaining local identity within larger cultural frameworks.
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