In southeastern Sicily, the town of Scicli offers a breathtaking escape from the tourist crowds that flock to its more famous neighbors. When I traveled through the Ragusa province last year, I stumbled upon this hidden gem and immediately felt drawn in by its baroque architecture and genuine Sicilian spirit.
Scicli belongs to the UNESCO World Heritage site “Late Baroque Towns of the Val di Noto,” yet it somehow stays unspoiled compared to Noto, Ragusa, and Modica.
Walking through Scicli’s historic center, I felt like I’d stepped into a living museum. The town thrived under different rulers like the Saracens and Normans, but the baroque era really left its mark.
My favorite spot? The Church of Santa Maria La Nova. It stands right in the heart of town and shows off classic Sicilian Baroque style.
Scicli’s not just about beautiful buildings and churches on every corner. The vibe is real and unfiltered.
Unlike the busier neighbors, Scicli feels uncrowded. I could wander its baroque streets at my own pace.
The food and wine here blew me away, too. Honestly, it’s a full-on sensory experience that captures Sicily’s essence.
Discovering Baroque Scicli: Sicily’s Architectural Treasure
Every stroll through Scicli feels like wandering an open-air museum of baroque splendor. The architecture here shows off some of Sicily’s finest baroque work.
You’ll notice dramatic facades and ornate details that hint at the island’s rich past.
UNESCO World Heritage and Val di Noto
Scicli stands proudly as one of eight towns in the Val di Noto that UNESCO recognized as a World Heritage Site in 2002. I found it fascinating that this honor came after the massive earthquake of 1693, which, oddly enough, sparked one of Europe’s most remarkable architectural revivals.
Locals call this area the “baroque necklace” of southeastern Sicily. As I wandered the streets, I saw how Scicli preserves the urban planning and architectural unity that make Val di Noto so unique.
What really sets Scicli apart from places like Noto and Ragusa is its authentic, laid-back atmosphere. You can actually see baroque masterpieces without elbowing through crowds.
The Influence of Baroque Architecture
Baroque in Scicli mixes Spanish influences with local Sicilian traditions. The contrast between the intense white and ochre buildings and the wide blue sky is just stunning.
Scicli’s baroque style feels like it belongs to the landscape. The buildings almost grow out of the rocky hillsides, blending architecture and nature in a way that feels just right.
Local limestone gives everything a golden glow, especially at sunset. Many facades show off masks, curved balconies, and those elaborate supporting figures—telamones, if you want the fancy word.
After the earthquake, architects like Rosario Gagliardi got the chance to rethink the town. They designed wide streets and dramatic perspectives that really let those monumental buildings shine.
Iconic Churches and Palaces
Via Francesco Mormina Penna acts as Scicli’s main baroque stage. It’s lined with churches and palaces that are honestly a photographer’s dream.
I spent ages snapping photos of Palazzo Beneventano, especially its wild masks and ornate balconies.
The Church of Santa Maria delle Scale—“St. Mary of the Stairs”—climbs right up the hillside. The staircase is dramatic, and the view over town is just unbeatable. It’s a perfect example of architecture working with the landscape.
San Bartolomeo Church grabbed my attention with its bold facade and tall bell tower. Inside, I found baroque altars and frescoes that made me feel like I’d stepped back in time.
Palazzo Spadaro and Palazzo Fava are worth a look, too. Their elegant exteriors now house museums and cultural spaces. These aren’t just pretty buildings—they’re woven into Scicli’s identity.
A Tapestry of Towns: Exploring Ragusa Province
Ragusa Province spreads out like a patchwork of baroque beauty, coastal charm, and hillside surprises. Every town in this part of Sicily has its own personality, but they all share a love of stunning architecture and deep history.
Ragusa and Ragusa Ibla
Ragusa is actually two towns—modern Ragusa up top, and the ancient Ragusa Ibla below. I found Ragusa Ibla breathtaking, with its UNESCO-protected baroque buildings perched on a limestone hill.
Wandering through Ibla’s narrow streets, I stumbled on the Duomo di San Giorgio. Its facade glows golden at sunset, and the layout of the town—full of steps and winding alleys—leads to little piazzas where locals hang out.
The upper town feels more contemporary but still has impressive spots like the Cathedral of San Giovanni Battista. Panoramic steps connect the two parts of town, offering incredible valley views.
Modica’s Chocolate and Culture
Just 15 kilometers from Ragusa, Modica is famous for its unique chocolate made with ancient Aztec techniques. If you visit, definitely stop by a traditional chocolate shop and try this grainy, rustic treat.
Modica’s baroque architecture rivals Ragusa’s, especially the Church of San Giorgio that dominates the skyline. The town sprawls across two valleys, so buildings seem to tumble down the hillsides.
What I loved most? Modica feels truly Sicilian. It hasn’t lost its local flavor to tourism. An evening passeggiata along Corso Umberto I is the perfect way to soak up daily life with the locals.
Quaint Villages: Chiaramonte Gulfi and Sampieri
Chiaramonte Gulfi, known as “the balcony of Sicily,” sits high on a hill with panoramic views. This small village is famous for olive oil and pork products. The Museum of Olive Oil is worth a stop if you want to learn about traditional methods.
The streets are quieter here, making it easy to explore churches like San Giovanni Battista at your own pace.
Sampieri, on the other hand, offers a charming coastal village vibe. Its long sandy beach is one of the best in the province and never feels overcrowded. The abandoned Fornace Penna, a brick factory called “Mannara,” stands as a haunting silhouette against the sea.
These smaller places let you see a side of Sicily that most tourists miss.
Beaches and Natural Wonders Near Scicli
Just a quick drive from Scicli’s baroque streets, you’ll hit some of Sicily’s most beautiful coastal spots. These pristine beaches and natural wonders make the perfect pairing with the town’s architecture.
Sandy Beaches and Crystal-Clear Waters
Sampieri Beach is a personal favorite. Golden sand stretches for kilometers along the Mediterranean, and even in summer, it stays pretty peaceful.
Donnalucata offers one of Sicily’s prettiest beaches. The water’s shallow and calm, ideal for families. I love grabbing a granita from a café along the promenade.
Marina di Modica’s beach is another gem. The sand is soft, and the water is crystal clear. What I appreciate is how these beaches keep their natural beauty—no endless rows of umbrellas or gaudy resorts.
You’ll find the basics:
- Umbrella rentals
- Small cafes and snack bars
- Clean public facilities
Sea Caves and Punta Secca
The coastline near Scicli is dotted with sea caves shaped by centuries of waves. I checked out A Rutta ri Ron Carmelu, a natural cave locals talk about but tourists rarely find.
Punta Secca, known for the “Inspector Montalbano” TV series, has a charming lighthouse and rocky shores. I love catching sunsets here as the waves crash over the rocks.
La Fornace Penna, that abandoned brick factory called “Mannara,” looks haunting along the coast. Even though it’s not a natural wonder, it fits right into the wild landscape.
Coastal trails here are perfect for hiking and offer sweeping views of the Mediterranean. Bring your camera—the light on the water is unreal.
Experiencing Scicli: Family-Friendly Stays and Comfort
Scicli rolls out the welcome mat for families. Whether you want a beachside resort or a cozy rental in the town center, you’ll find Sicilian hospitality paired with modern comforts.
Charming Local Accommodations
During my trip, I found several family-friendly places that blend authenticity with convenience. VOI Marsa Siclà Essentia and IGV Club Baia Samuele stood out as great resorts for families, with spacious rooms and kid-friendly facilities.
If you want something more intimate, check out vacation rentals in Scicli Centro. The stone-paved streets lead to apartments and villas that ooze character. Most are within walking distance of the main sights and local shops.
Cava d’Aliga is another good choice, especially if your family loves the beach. This coastal part of Scicli has rentals with sea views and easy beach access.
Family Amenities: Kitchen, Grill, Comfort
Scicli’s vacation rentals usually come with all the things that make family travel easier. Having a kitchen was a lifesaver for me—quick meals or snacks for the kids, no problem.
Most places offer:
- Fully equipped kitchens—fridge, stove, the works
- Outdoor grilling areas—perfect for fresh Sicilian seafood
- Baby gear like cots and high chairs (just ask)
- Air conditioning—a must in summer
- Outdoor spaces where kids can play while adults unwind
Some hosts even leave a welcome basket with local goodies. I always felt like the hosts genuinely cared about making our stay comfortable.
The Allure of a Leisurely Breakfast
One of my best memories? Slow breakfasts on a sunlit terrace. Many rentals have outdoor dining areas where families can gather before heading out for the day.
Resorts usually offer buffet breakfasts with options for kids and traditional Sicilian treats. My children still talk about having cannoli for breakfast!
If you’re self-catering, local bakeries sell fresh bread and pastries every morning. I suggest visiting the little shops early to grab warm bread and fruit for a simple, delicious breakfast.
Some hosts even arrange breakfast baskets filled with regional specialties so you can start your day with a taste of Sicily.
Flavors of the Region: Scicli’s Culinary Scene
Scicli’s food scene reflects Sicily’s rich culinary roots, mixing fresh local ingredients with old traditions. The town’s restaurants and shops highlight the authentic flavors that make Sicilian food so legendary.
Olive Oil and Traditional Oil Mills
As I wandered through Scicli, I realized olive oil is at the heart of local cooking. The countryside around town is full of ancient olive groves that produce some of Sicily’s best extra virgin olive oil.
Many families still run traditional oil mills—some have been doing it for generations. I visited a family-run frantoio (oil mill) where they press olives using old-school methods.
The oil here has a peppery kick and hints of artichoke and herbs. Locals drizzle it over bread, toss it with pasta, or use it to finish grilled veggies.
If you’re here during the autumn harvest, try to watch the pressing process. Tasting the fresh oil straight from the mill is an experience you won’t forget.
Fresh Seafood and Local Cuisine
Scicli sits just a short drive from the Mediterranean, so you’ll find seafood that arrives daily from nearby fishing villages. Local restaurants love to show off these fresh catches with simple, confident preparations.
I tried pasta con le sarde—that’s pasta with sardines, wild fennel, and pine nuts. It’s a classic example of Sicily’s Arab-influenced flavors.
Pesce spada alla ghiotta (swordfish with olives, capers, and tomatoes) is another local favorite. You’ll spot it on plenty of menus.
Trattorias around here take pride in traditional plates like caponata (sweet and sour eggplant) and arancini (fried rice balls). Local produce from the fertile Ragusa province makes its way into most recipes.
If you want a truly authentic meal, hunt down the small, family-run eateries tucked away from the main square. These spots often skip printed menus and just tell you what’s fresh and in season.
Montalbano and Scicli on Screen
Scicli shot to fame after it appeared in the beloved Italian detective series Inspector Montalbano. The town’s authentic Sicilian vibe and beautifully preserved baroque architecture made it a natural fit for the show.
TV Fame of Scicli
Inspector Montalbano’s police station in the fictional town of “Vigata” actually sits inside Scicli’s own town hall. This magnificent baroque building stands tall and proud in the center of the real town.
When you wander Scicli’s streets, it honestly feels like you’re strolling onto the Montalbano set that so many fans adore.
On my visit, I spotted locals pointing out filming spots with a kind of quiet pride. The series really changed things here, turning Scicli from a sleepy Sicilian town into a hotspot for TV tourists.
Cafés where Montalbano sipped his espresso and the streets where those tense chase scenes happened now show up on informal walking tours.
The baroque architecture gives Scicli its cinematic vibe, and it’s honestly the same splendor that helped southeastern Sicily land UNESCO recognition.
The directors didn’t just get lucky—they picked the perfect backdrop. Where else could you find a more Sicilian story than among these honey-colored facades?
