Nestled in the heart of Basilicata in Southern Italy, Matera grabbed my attention the moment I saw its ancient stone skyline. This city, famous for its cave dwellings known as “Sassi,” invites visitors to wander through thousands of years of human history.
The Sassi di Matera, split into Sasso Caveoso and Sasso Barisano, stand as one of the world’s oldest continuously inhabited settlements. UNESCO even gave them World Heritage status for their cultural importance.
When I wandered Matera’s winding limestone paths, it honestly felt like time had rewound. The cave churches, carved straight into the rock, hold frescoes that have survived for centuries.
But what sets Matera apart? Locals have turned these ancient dwellings into cozy hotels, buzzing restaurants, and little artisan shops—all while keeping the historic vibe alive.
Exploring Matera, I discovered a city of wild contrasts. Once labeled Italy’s “national shame” because of its poverty, it’s now one of the country’s most captivating places.
As we go deeper into this guide, I’ll show you the Sassi’s hidden nooks, share the best spots for jaw-dropping photos, and reveal the local experiences that made my time in this cave city so memorable.
Unraveling the History of Matera’s Cave Districts
Matera’s cave districts tell a story etched over thousands of years. From prehistoric settlements to a modern cultural revival, the rocky landscape shows how people adapted and shaped this unique place.
From Ancient Settlements to Modern Day
I first got hooked on Matera when I realized people have lived here since the Paleolithic era—over 9,000 years! That’s just wild.
Early residents carved out simple homes in the soft tufa limestone. Over time, these shelters grew into layered homes, churches, and workshops.
By the Middle Ages, Matera thrived with clever water collection systems. But the 20th century hit the Sassi hard. By the 1950s, the caves symbolized deep poverty and disease, earning Matera the harsh nickname “Italy’s national disgrace.”
The government stepped in and moved most residents to new housing. The Sassi sat mostly empty until the 1980s, when people started working to save them.
The Sassi: Barisano and Caveoso
Matera’s caves break into two main zones: Sasso Barisano and Sasso Caveoso. Each one has its own vibe, and honestly, I loved exploring both.
Sasso Barisano, facing northwest, feels more “modern.” Its cave façades often hide behind fancy baroque fronts. Today, you’ll find plenty of restaurants, hotels, and artisan shops tucked inside.
Sasso Caveoso, facing south, keeps a raw, authentic look. Here, you can see the original cave structures and some pretty ingenious adaptations for cave living. The homes stack up in a wild vertical maze.
Between these two sits the Civita, the oldest part of Matera and home to the city’s striking Romanesque cathedral.
Recognizing UNESCO World Heritage Status
In 1993, UNESCO finally saw what makes Matera special and named the Sassi and the Park of the Rupestrian Churches a World Heritage Site.
That recognition saved the Sassi from falling apart and kicked off a wave of restoration.
UNESCO’s nod celebrates the way humans and nature shaped Matera together. It protects not just the cave homes but also the rock churches, many with Byzantine frescoes from as far back as the 8th century.
This international spotlight helped Matera become a European Capital of Culture in 2019, which put the city on the map.
Exploring the Wonders of Sassi di Matera
Matera’s ancient cave districts take you on a walk through time. Their stone-carved homes and rich heritage make every step feel like you’re inside a living museum.
Iconic Landmarks and Secret Corners
When I first arrived, the Sassi took my breath away. The two districts—Sasso Caveoso and Sasso Barisano—each have their personality.
You’ll find the best views from several panoramic spots. I suggest heading to the Belvedere near Piazza Pascoli at sunrise, when the stone city glows gold.
Don’t skip the restored cave houses that show how locals lived over the centuries. Many now operate as museums, boutique hotels, or restaurants, but they keep their original charm.
Hidden paths wind between the buildings, and if you follow them, you’ll stumble into quiet corners. Sometimes, you’ll discover tiny gardens or the perfect spot for a photo over the dramatic landscape.
Matera Cathedral and Rupestrian Churches
The Matera Cathedral (Duomo) sits high between the two Sassi districts. Its bell tower dominates the skyline, and the Romanesque architecture stands out against the caves below.
Inside, the frescoes and marble altars really impressed me. The cathedral dates to the 13th century and shows just how important faith was here.
But the true spiritual heart of Matera lies in the rupestrian churches carved out of the rock. Chiesa di Santa Maria de Idris and Chiesa di San Pietro Barisano house some of the most beautiful ancient frescoes I’ve ever seen.
These rock churches hold Byzantine-style art that’s survived for ages. Their cool, dim interiors offer a peaceful break from the sun and a peek into medieval religious life.
Walking Through Piazza Vittorio Veneto
Piazza Vittorio Veneto marks the main entrance to the Sassi and makes a great starting point. This lively square connects the modern city to its ancient soul.
I usually grab a coffee at a café here before wandering into the old stone streets. The vibe changes fast—from bustling square to quiet, winding paths.
Underneath the piazza, an underground world of cisterns and water systems waits to be explored. Guided tours let you check out these ancient feats of engineering.
The square has helpful signs and maps, which makes it easier to navigate the Sassi’s maze. I recommend getting a city card here—it gets you into many of the cave houses and museums around Matera.
Modern Life in the Caves: Where to Stay & Dine
Matera’s ancient caves now house some of Italy’s most unique places to stay and eat. Today, you can soak up history and comfort at the same time, right inside these storied walls.
Cave Hotels and Unique Stays
Honestly, sleeping in a cave hotel is the best way to experience Matera. These sassi (stone homes) are thousands of years old, but now they come with all the modern perks.
Most cave hotels feature stone arches, hand-carved furniture, and soft lighting that gives everything a magical feel. Prices usually start around €80 for basic rooms and can climb to €300+ for luxury suites with terraces.
Top picks? Sextantio Le Grotte della Civita keeps things minimalist to let the natural cave beauty shine, while Corte San Pietro mixes rustic charm with modern comfort. Most hotels sit right in the heart of Sasso Barisano or Sasso Caveoso, so you’re never far from the action.
Palazzo Gattini: A Case Study
Palazzo Gattini stands out as one of Matera’s most luxurious stays. This 5-star hotel fills a restored 17th-century palace at the highest point of the Sassi.
What grabbed me was the way Palazzo Gattini blends grand architecture with the cave setting. The 20 rooms and suites have vaulted stone ceilings, elegant decor, and marble bathrooms.
The spa deserves a shoutout—it’s tucked inside old cisterns beneath the palace, and you can get treatments surrounded by ancient stone. The rooftop terrace? It might just have the best sunset view over the Sassi.
Tasting Lucanian and Italian Cuisine
Eating in Matera’s caves is a treat. The food scene celebrates Lucanian (Basilicata) flavors and Italian classics, often served in centuries-old caves.
Local dishes I love include orecchiette pasta with turnip tops, lamb with wild herbs, and crispy cruschi peppers. Don’t leave without trying Matera bread, a UNESCO-recognized sourdough made from local grains.
For a memorable meal, check out Ristorante Francesca in a beautifully restored cave. Baccanti serves up creative takes on local cuisine in an elegant setting. For something more laid-back, Dimora Ulmo offers simple regional dishes on a terrace with stunning Sassi views.
Some spots even offer cooking classes, so you can try your hand at making traditional Lucanian recipes with local ingredients.
Matera in the Spotlight: Cinema, Culture, and Events
Matera’s ancient streets have caught the eye of filmmakers and artists, turning the city into an international sensation. The dramatic caves and winding alleys provide a backdrop that’s hard to resist.
James Bond Films and No Time To Die
As I wandered Matera, I kept picturing Daniel Craig dashing across rooftops in “No Time to Die.” The 2021 Bond film showed off Matera’s dramatic scenery with some unforgettable chase scenes.
Bond visited the region before—”Quantum of Solace” filmed nearby, too. The connection with 007 has left its mark.
Tourism soared after these movies. Now, local guides offer James Bond tours that take you to filming locations and share behind-the-scenes stories.
I spotted several cafés and shops proudly displaying Bond memorabilia and film photos. The movies brought in money that has helped preserve the caves.
Christ Stopped at Eboli and Carlo Levi
Before Bond, Carlo Levi’s memoir “Christ Stopped at Eboli” put Matera on the map. Exiled in the 1930s, Levi wrote about the crushing poverty and isolation of southern Italy.
His book shocked the country by exposing the harsh conditions inside Matera’s caves. The title suggests even Christ’s compassion never reached this forgotten place.
Francesco Rosi’s 1979 film adaptation brought Levi’s story to more people. Today, you can visit the Carlo Levi museum in Matera to see his art and learn about his legacy.
I found the museum deeply moving, especially when you compare Matera’s difficult past to its vibrant present.
From European Capital of Culture to Today
Matera hit a high note in 2019, when it became European Capital of Culture. The city welcomed visitors from all over, restored more caves, and hosted a year of art and music events.
I went to a few concerts inside caves turned into venues—the acoustics were incredible.
The city keeps the momentum going with annual festivals like:
- The Women’s Fiction Festival
- Matera Film Festival
- Festa della Bruna
- Jazz events in cave churches
Many abandoned Sassi now house cultural centers, boutique hotels, and artisan workshops. Local artists blend traditional crafts with new ideas inspired by the landscape.
Matera now walks a fine line—preserving its roots while embracing its worldwide fame.
Discovering Matera’s Surroundings and Day Trips
Matera deserves at least a few days to explore, but the surrounding region has its surprises. From architectural gems to ghost towns and even beaches, nearby spots show off the diverse beauty of Basilicata and neighboring Puglia.
Alberobello and the Trulli Houses
Alberobello sits just a 90-minute drive from Matera. This enchanting town is famous for its quirky trulli houses.
These cone-shaped homes, with their whitewashed walls and stone roofs, look like something out of a fairytale. I honestly couldn’t stop staring—they’re that mesmerizing.
Over 1,000 trulli fill the UNESCO-protected historic center. Shops, restaurants, and even places to stay now occupy many of them.
I wandered through the Rione Monti district, where you’ll find the highest concentration of these unique structures. It’s easy to get lost in the maze of winding streets.
If you want the best experience, try to arrive early in the morning or later in the afternoon. That way, you dodge both the crowds and the brutal midday heat.
The Trullo Sovrano stands out—a two-story trullo turned museum. It gives you a real sense of how people once lived here.
Many trulli display mysterious symbols painted on their conical roofs. Some show Christian images, while others feature zodiac signs that hint at the stories of the original inhabitants.
Metaponto, Craco, and Aliano
If you head east from Matera, you’ll hit the archaeological site of Metaponto. Here, the Greek ruins—especially the Temple of Apollo Lyceus—stand tall, with 15 columns still reaching for the sky.
Metaponto once rivaled Athens in cultural significance. It’s hard not to imagine what life was like back then.
About an hour south, Craco waits with its haunting beauty. Landslides forced everyone out in the 1960s, and now the crumbling buildings cling to the hillside in a way that’s both dramatic and a little eerie.
I felt awestruck watching nature slowly reclaim the town. There’s something oddly peaceful about it.
Aliano sits nearby and offers a different vibe. Carlo Levi lived here in exile during the fascist era, and his book “Christ Stopped at Eboli” paints a vivid picture of life in this remote corner of Basilicata.
The clay calanchi—those badlands—surround these towns and create a landscape that feels almost lunar. If you’re into photography, you’ll probably love it.
Coastal Escapes by the Ionian Sea
Honestly, after soaking up so much history and wandering through ancient ruins, I just craved a change of scenery. So I jumped in the car and drove about an hour from Matera to the Ionian coastline.
The beaches here feel pristine, especially when the summer heat gets intense. I swear, the cool sea breeze is a lifesaver.
Policoro has these wide, sandy beaches that stretch out forever. I wandered into the Bosco Pantano nature reserve and spotted spots where sea turtles nest. Pretty cool, right?
Metaponto Lido gave me one of my favorite afternoons. You get this wild mix of old archaeological sites and golden sand, all in one place.
Try the beaches near Nova Siri or Scanzano Jonico if you want somewhere quieter. Hardly anyone crowds these spots, so you can hear yourself think. Plus, the water is obvious.
And oh, the food. So many coastal towns serve up seafood that’s just been caught. I couldn’t resist the brodetto alla marinara—the local seafood stew. I still find myself daydreaming about that flavor.
