Wandering through Zagreb’s Upper Town is like slipping into a living medieval storybook. Cobblestone lanes twist past 13th-century towers, baroque churches, and those wildly colorful tiled roofs that have watched over Croatia’s capital for nearly 800 years.
Upper Town isn’t just a tourist stop—it’s the real pulse of Zagreb. Here, medieval history, modern politics, and everyday Croatian life blend together on every corner. I’ve felt that blend in the air, especially when locals and travelers share the same narrow streets.
What makes this hilltop district so magical? It’s how the past and present just… mingle. I’ve strolled through the Stone Gate, imagining medieval guards on duty, only to spot government officials heading to work at the Croatian Parliament a few steps later.
Narrow streets that once split two rival medieval towns now host candlelit witch tours and quirky museums. The vibe is never quite the same twice.
Upper Town stays alive and functional, not just a frozen relic. Locals still light candles at ancient shrines. The century-old funicular rumbles up the hill, packed with commuters. Every day at noon, Lotrščak Tower’s cannon booms, just as it has for over a hundred years.
Ready to peel back the layers? Let’s dive into the history, culture, and everyday life that make Upper Town a must for anyone who wants to really get Zagreb.
Origins and Structure of Zagreb’s Upper Town
Zagreb’s Upper Town grew out of two medieval settlements that perched on neighboring hills from the 11th century onward. Kaptol and Gradec—distinct, sometimes feuding, always fascinating—shaped the Gornji Grad I walk through today.
Fusion of Kaptol and Gradec
The city’s roots? Two separate medieval communities on adjacent hills. Kaptol got its first mention in 1094 when Hungarian King Ladislas set up the Zagreb Diocese. That move turned Kaptol into the religious hub of the region.
Gradec rose to prominence later. In 1242, King Bela IV handed it the Golden Bull, making Gradec a free royal city. He did this to thank the townsfolk for sheltering him from the Tatars.
For centuries, these two settlements stayed separate. Each had its own walls, towers, and rules. Kaptol leaned religious; Gradec, commercial.
In 1850, everything changed. Kaptol, Gradec, and nearby areas merged into a single city: Zagreb. That’s the moment Upper Town, or Gornji Grad, really took shape.
Medieval Streets and Urban Layout
Upper Town’s street pattern still whispers its medieval story. The narrow, winding cobblestone streets connect the original hills, following the land’s curves instead of any rigid grid.
St. Mark’s Square anchors Gradec. The Gothic St. Mark’s Church, with its famous roof, stands right at its center. Around it, government buildings and noble palaces cluster together.
Kaptol’s core is the cathedral area. Religious buildings and clergy houses give it a different feel. Streets fan out from the cathedral, more organic than planned.
After many fires, stone buildings replaced old wooden ones. The 17th and 18th centuries brought a Baroque facelift—wealthy families threw up palaces and monasteries, adding a new layer to the town’s look.
Old Town Boundaries and Access Points
Medieval walls and towers once wrapped both Kaptol and Gradec. You can still spot remnants of these defenses today. The Stone Gate (Kamenita Vrata), dating from the 13th century, is the most famous survivor.
High walls kept out Turkish threats between the 14th and 18th centuries. Zagreb played the role of border fortress back then.
Key access points:
- Stone Gate, the main way into Gradec
- Smaller gates that linked the settlements
- Defensive towers at strategic spots
The late 19th-century funicular now links Upper Town to Lower Town. It’s the main modern route for visitors, but you’ll also find old walking paths and staircases connecting the district’s different levels.
Iconic Landmarks and Historic Sites
Upper Town is packed with Zagreb’s most beloved medieval landmarks. Each one has its own story—some dramatic, some quietly powerful.
St. Mark’s Church and Square
St. Mark’s Church is probably the most photographed spot in the city. It sits right in Upper Town’s political heart.
The Famous Roof
The roof is a riot of color, showing two coats of arms. On the left: medieval Croatia, Dalmatia, and Slavonia. On the right: Zagreb’s city emblem.
Craftsmen finished the roof in 1880, using over 244,000 glazed tiles in red, white, and blue.
Political Heart
St. Mark’s Square surrounds the church. The Croatian Parliament stands on one side. The Government Palace is on another.
I’ve seen protests, celebrations, and official ceremonies here. The church has watched Croatian history unfold for centuries.
The Gothic building dates from the 13th century, but after fires, they rebuilt it in the 14th century.
Lotrščak Tower and the Noon Cannon
Lotrščak Tower is Upper Town’s most iconic fortress remnant. I climb its stairs whenever I want the best view of Zagreb.
The Daily Cannon
At noon, the cannon fires—a tradition that started in 1877. The boom echoes across the city.
Originally, the shot helped people set their clocks. Now, it’s a daily ritual that connects Zagreb’s present to its past.
Medieval Defense
Builders raised the tower in the 13th century as part of Gradec’s southern wall. “Lotrščak” means “bell of thieves.”
Guards rang the bell every evening to warn that the city gates would soon close.
Panoramic Views
Climb to the top gallery. Red-tiled roofs spill below, and Zagreb Cathedral’s spires poke up in the distance.
Stone Gate: Guardianship and Legend
The Stone Gate is both a historic entrance and a sacred shrine. I pass through it often, watching pilgrims pause to light candles.
Miraculous Survival
In 1731, fire swept through Gradec. Everything burned—except a painting of the Virgin Mary and Child inside the gate. The frame charred, but the painting stayed untouched.
That miracle turned the gate into a holy site. Pilgrims from all over Croatia come to pray and light candles.
Sacred Space
Today, a small chapel sits inside. Hundreds of candles flicker, and flowers and prayer notes pile up.
The mood is peaceful, even with the busy street outside. Locals slip in for a quick prayer on their way to work.
Last Medieval Gate
This is the only gate left from Gradec’s original fortifications. Four once stood guard, but wars and city growth claimed the others.
Thick stone walls show off medieval building skills. Iron gates still swing shut every night, keeping an 800-year-old ritual alive.
Culture, Art, and Unique Museums
Upper Town is where Zagreb’s most distinctive cultural gems hide out—some world-famous, others tucked away on winding streets. Two museums in particular offer experiences you just can’t find anywhere else.
Museum of Broken Relationships
The Museum of Broken Relationships is probably Zagreb’s quirkiest cultural export. It displays personal objects from failed relationships, each with a story.
The concept is both moving and strangely universal. Visitors donate mementos—sometimes funny, sometimes heartbreaking—from lost loves or friendships.
You’ll see everything from teddy bears to axes (yes, really—one person chopped up their ex’s furniture). Each object tells a story of love, loss, or letting go.
Why it’s special:
- The first museum of its kind
- Started in Croatia, now has outposts worldwide
- Visitors can contribute their own stories
- Covers every kind of relationship, not just romance
It’s a place to process heartbreak and feel connected. Most people leave feeling seen, not sad.
Croatian Museum of Naïve Art
The Croatian Museum of Naïve Art holds one of the world’s biggest collections of naïve art. Inside, you’ll find 1,500 works by artists who skipped formal training.
These painters used bright colors and simple lines to show rural life, religious scenes, and folk traditions. There’s something raw and real about it.
Most artists were farmers or workers painting in their spare time. The art feels both childlike and surprisingly deep.
What to look for:
- Ivan Generalić, the father of Croatian naïve art
- Paintings from the Hlebine School
- Rotating exhibits with new themes and artists
This museum proves that art isn’t just for the formally trained. These artists captured slices of Croatian life that others might have missed.
Local Art Galleries and Studios
Upper Town’s medieval streets hide several smaller galleries. Klovićevi Dvori Gallery hosts major exhibitions and cultural events all year.
Atelier Meštrović lets you peek into the studio of Croatia’s most famous sculptor. The space feels like stepping into the artist’s mind.
Galerija Lav mixes art and coffee. Sip espresso, nibble cake, and take in 20th-century Croatian art.
Many galleries live inside historic buildings, so you get a cool blend of old architecture and modern creativity. Even just walking between venues feels like part of the art scene.
Life and Leisure in Upper Town
Upper Town isn’t just history—it’s alive with markets, cafés, promenades, and rituals. Every day at noon, the cannon thunders from Lotrščak Tower, and locals gather at timeworn meeting spots.
Dolac Market: The Trade Hub
Dolac Market is the city’s daily heartbeat. Vendors set up under bright red umbrellas every morning, filling the air with the smell of fresh produce.
The market opens at 6 AM, six days a week. Local farmers bring in vegetables, fruits, and dairy from nearby villages.
Don’t miss:
- Croatian cheeses and honey
- Seasonal fruits and veggies
- Traditional crafts and souvenirs
- Local wines from the region
Upstairs, permanent stalls sell meat and fish. Down below, farmers hawk their goods straight to customers.
Locals shop here daily, always knowing which vendor has the best tomatoes or freshest bread.
Tkalčićeva Street’s Café Culture
Tkalčićeva Street hums with café life all day and well into the night. This pedestrian street links Upper and Lower Town, lined with restaurants and bars.
Coffee culture runs deep. Friends meet over espresso at sidewalk tables, people-watch, and linger.
You’ll find specialties like strukli (cheese pastry) and local wines. Many cafés serve both Croatian classics and international bites.
Favorite spots:
- Cozy coffee shops with outdoor tables
- Wine bars pouring Croatian vintages
- Restaurants serving Zagreb favorites
- Ice cream parlors perfect for families
As the sun sets, live music spills out of doorways. The street stays lively until midnight, especially on weekends.
Strossmayer Promenade and Scenic Views
Strossmayer Promenade gives you the city’s best views. I love climbing up here to watch Zagreb sprawl out below.
Trees line the walkway along Upper Town’s southern edge. Benches invite you to sit, snap photos, or just take it all in.
Lotrščak Tower marks one end. At noon, crowds gather for the cannon’s boom.
Best times for views:
- Morning: Crisp light for photos
- Sunset: Golden glow over the city
- Evening: City lights twinkle below
The promenade connects easily to other sights. St. Mark’s Church and the Stone Gate are just a few minutes’ walk away.
Festivals and Traditions
Upper Town throws some of Zagreb’s best festivals. Summer brings open-air concerts to hidden courtyards and squares.
In April, St. Mark’s Day takes over the main square with folk music and dancing. The Advent season transforms Upper Town into a Christmas fairy tale, with markets, mulled wine, and crafts.
Annual highlights:
- Summer evening concerts
- Folk festivals with traditional music
- Christmas markets in December
- Easter celebrations at historic churches
Every day, locals stop at the Stone Gate to light candles or leave flowers. These rituals link today’s city to its medieval roots. The same streets that hosted markets 800 years ago still bring people together.
Upper Town and Zagreb’s Modern Connections
Upper Town links to the modern city through three main pathways, blending medieval charm with a contemporary vibe. Ban Jelačić Square acts as the gateway, while the funicular still shuttles riders between old and new.
Ban Jelačić Square’s Urban Pulse
Ban Jelačić Square sits right at the base of Upper Town and honestly, it’s where everyone seems to gather. This spot links the winding medieval lanes above with the lively city below.
All day long, the square hums with energy—sometimes it’s almost too much to take in. Trams glide across the plaza, shuttling folks between Upper Town and the rest of Zagreb. Street performers and vendors pop up, adding their own flavor to the scene.
From here, you can’t miss the two main paths leading up to Upper Town. Radićeva Street snakes upward toward the Stone Gate, and if you don’t feel like climbing, the funicular station waits just around the corner.
Most people kick off their Upper Town adventure right here. The tourist information center hands out maps and advice, which honestly saves a lot of wandering. Local buses swing by too, so getting here from anywhere in Zagreb is a breeze.
From Upper Town to Lower Town
Upper Town and Lower Town (Donji Grad) tell Zagreb’s story across the centuries. If you’re after a killer view, Strossmayer Promenade is the spot—trust me.
Lower Town sprawls below, all wide boulevards and leafy parks. The difference is striking. Upper Town feels old and cozy with its cobblestone lanes, while Lower Town shows off 19th-century city planning.
Tunnel Grič offers a quirky shortcut underground. This tunnel runs beneath the promenade and links the two neighborhoods. Walking through it beats trudging up steep streets, especially in the heat.
The tunnel stays open every day, and it’s a cool escape when the sun’s blazing. It connects Radićeva Street near Ban Jelačić Square to deeper corners of Upper Town.
The Funicular: Linking Past and Present
Zagreb’s funicular has been chugging along since 1893. It’s one of the shortest rides you’ll ever take—less than a minute from the lower station near Ban Jelačić Square up to Upper Town.
The ride takes just 30 seconds and covers only 66 meters, but wow, does it save your legs. Two tiny blue cabins glide past each other halfway up, and the ticket costs just a few kunas.
During busy times, the funicular runs every 10 minutes. Crowds pick up in tourist season, but honestly, you won’t wait long. The upper station drops you right by Lotrščak Tower.
Despite its age, the funicular still uses much of its original equipment. It’s a charming way to hop from modern Zagreb to the city’s medieval core, and people of all ages seem to love it.
Parks, Green Spaces, and Surrounding Districts
Upper Town connects easily to Zagreb’s best green corridor—Lenuci’s Horseshoe. Meanwhile, life in the neighboring districts feels relaxed, with locals chatting in markets or strolling down tree-lined streets.
Zrinjevac and Lenuci’s Horseshoe
Zrinjevac sits at the heart of what locals call the Green Horseshoe, or Lenuci’s Horseshoe. This U-shaped chain of parks stretches right through Lower Town.
If you’re looking for a shady spot to escape the summer heat, this is the place. These parks have well-kept paths that link up with some of the city’s top cultural sights.
Key features of the Horseshoe include:
- Parks that connect into a continuous green route
- Historic squares shaded by old trees
- Plenty of benches and cool, leafy corners
- Super easy access from Upper Town
The design makes walking between Upper Town and modern Zagreb feel effortless. Each park along the route has its own vibe, but together they flow in that unmistakable horseshoe shape.
Local Life Beyond the Tourist Trail
Dolac Market sits right at the base of Upper Town. Locals flock here for fresh produce every morning, and if you want to catch the real action, you’ve got to get there before 1 PM.
Tkalčićeva Street winds parallel to Upper Town, humming with cafes and the unmistakable aroma of strong coffee. You can really feel the city’s heartbeat here—locals linger over espresso, and the energy is more about everyday life than sightseeing.
Local gathering spots include:
- Morning markets packed with fresh goods
- Cozy neighborhood cafes and bars
- Leafy, tree-lined residential streets
- Hidden little parks tucked between districts
Wander into the surrounding districts and you’ll see how people in Zagreb actually live. Each neighborhood has its own green spaces and lively community centers, offering a glimpse into daily routines just beyond the historic core.
