Chios completely flipped my idea of what a Greek island could be. While crowds pack Santorini and Mykonos, this North Aegean island just kind of sits there, quietly holding onto some of Greece’s quirkiest secrets.
You’ll find black volcanic beaches, medieval villages that once hid pirates, and landscapes that shift from wild, rocky coastlines to fields of tulips. Honestly, I never expected half of what I stumbled across here.
This island produces the world’s only mastic resin, has UNESCO-protected Byzantine mosaics, and features landscapes that shift from volcanic coastlines to colorful tulip fields. The contrast is wild. One minute, I’m crunching over black pebbles from ancient lava flows, and the next, I’m wandering through fortified villages where Genoese merchants built their stone mansions.
What really makes Chios stand out isn’t just its beauty or history. There’s something strikingly genuine about the place. The rocket wars at Easter, the wild geometric patterns painted on village homes, and all those stories about sea captains and pirates—it’s a character you just don’t find anywhere else in Greece.
Exploring the Black Volcanic Beaches of Chios
Chios has some of the most unusual volcanic beaches in Greece. Ancient eruptions shaped these coastlines, leaving behind dramatic black pebble shores.
You can visit the famous Mavra Volia, but there are also hidden beaches up north that barely see any tourists.
Mavra Volia and Its Unique Pebbles
Mavra Volia is honestly the most jaw-dropping beach I’ve seen in Greece. Black volcanic pebbles roll down to meet that clear, turquoise water.
This place exists because lava from ancient eruptions poured into the sea, cooling into smooth, dark stones that shimmer in the sun.
How to Get There:
- Near Emporios village
- About a 45-minute drive from Chios town
- Just follow the signs to Emporios, then look for the beach signs
- Parking’s available, but it fills up fast in August
The black pebbles get scorching hot, so bring an umbrella—there’s barely any natural shade.
A small kiosk sells drinks and snacks, but don’t expect loungers or umbrellas for rent. You’ll need to bring your own.
When to Visit:
- Early mornings or late afternoons are best
- Midday heat in summer is brutal
- Weekdays are quieter
Emporios: Coastal Charm and Seaside Life
Emporios is the little fishing village right by Mavra Volia. It’s got that authentic, old-school Greek island vibe.
You’ll find traditional tavernas serving the freshest seafood. I loved just sitting there, watching the fishing boats drift in with their catch.
Village Highlights:
- A historic church that overlooks the harbor
- Stone houses with a lived-in feel
- Local ceramic workshops
- A small grocery store for basics
The harbor itself is a great spot for families—calmer water than the volcanic beach.
A handful of guesthouses sit just a short walk from both the village and Mavra Volia.
Hidden Northern Beaches: Nagos and Kambia
Up north, Chios hides away some volcanic beaches that most people never see. Nagos and Kambia are perfect if you want dramatic scenery and zero crowds.
Nagos Beach:
- Black pebbles mixed with sand
- Steep cliffs block the wind
- Small taverna with local food
- Best to drive there
Kambia Beach:
- Totally secluded
- All black pebbles
- No facilities at all
- You’ll need to hike from the road
Both beaches really show off Chios’s volcanic side, minus the crowds.
The northern side gets cooler winds, which is honestly a relief in summer.
Photographers will love it—the contrast of dark shore and blue sea is unreal.
Bring everything: water, snacks, and shade. There’s nothing out there except the view.
The Mastic Villages: Chios’ Agricultural and Cultural Treasure
The medieval mastic villages are where Chios really gets unique. These fortified settlements grow the rare mastic trees that make the island famous.
Mesta: A Medieval Labyrinth
Mesta is the best preserved mastic village on Chios. Walking those narrow stone streets, I felt like I’d slipped back centuries.
The Genoese built the fortress village in the 14th century, wrapping it in thick walls. Houses connect to form a solid outer wall.
Inside, the streets twist and turn on purpose. Pirates who broke in would get hopelessly lost, while locals could slip away through hidden passages.
What You’ll See in Mesta:
- Stone houses with flat roofs
- Central square and an old church
- Alleys barely wide enough for two people
- Medieval gates that still stand today
About 300 people live here now. Many families still harvest mastic from the trees outside the village.
Old stone houses now hold little shops selling mastic products.
Pyrgi: The Painted Village
Pyrgi is a showstopper, thanks to its wild black-and-white geometric patterns. Every house front is covered in these designs called “xysta.”
Local artists use a cool technique: they spread dark volcanic sand mixed with cement, then scrape away parts to reveal the white plaster beneath.
You get diamonds, zigzags, and all sorts of shapes. Families pick their own patterns, and some have kept the same designs for generations.
Popular Xysta Patterns:
- Diamond grids
- Zigzag borders
- Floral and abstract shapes
Pyrgi’s also famous for its top-quality mastic. Around 400 people live here, most of them working in mastic cultivation or tourism.
During harvest season, families gather to collect the “tears” of mastic from the tree bark. It’s a tradition that goes back centuries.
Nenita and the Lesser-Known Mastic Villages
Nenita is quieter than Mesta or Pyrgi but just as charming. It sits among thick mastic groves, with stone houses circling a central square.
An old Byzantine church anchors the village.
Other mastic villages worth a visit:
- Olympi – Known for its tower houses
- Vessa – Traditional architecture everywhere
- Kalamoti – Still processes mastic
- Lithi – Mastic farms plus a nearby beach
These villages make up the Mastichochoria region. All 24 mastic villages work together through the Chios Mastic Union, controlling quality and prices for mastic products.
Some villages focus on growing trees, while others turn the raw resin into things like mastiha liqueur.
Image Source: Flickr
Mastic Trees and the Resin Harvest
Southern Chios is the only place where mastic trees grow. The Pistacia lentiscus variety here produces that precious resin—mastiha.
The trees need volcanic soil, sea breezes, and the Mediterranean climate. It’s a delicate balance.
Harvest runs from July to October. Workers make tiny cuts in the bark, and clear resin drops form and harden into “tears.”
How They Harvest Mastic:
- Clean the ground around each tree
- Make careful cuts in the bark
- Wait a couple weeks for the resin to harden
- Gather the “tears” by hand
- Clean and sort by quality
Each tree gives just 150-200 grams a year. No wonder mastic is so valuable.
The Mastic Museum near the villages is worth a stop. You’ll find interactive exhibits and tools used for centuries of harvesting.
Image Source: Tripadvisor
Byzantine Heritage and UNESCO Monuments
Chios has one of Greece’s most stunning Byzantine treasures: Nea Moni, a UNESCO World Heritage monastery built by Emperor Constantine IX Monomachos.
The island’s Byzantine legacy runs deep, with several old monasteries that shaped its spiritual and cultural heart.
Nea Moni Monastery: A World Heritage Site
Nea Moni blew me away. Built between 1042 and 1056 AD, this monastery earned UNESCO status in 1990.
The octagonal katholikon (main church) is a standout—an unusual style from the 11th century.
What Makes It Special:
- 11th-century Byzantine mosaics
- Octagonal dome structure
- Well-preserved frescoes and art
- A historic library with old manuscripts
The mosaics inside show New Testament scenes, and they’ve survived earthquakes and invasions. It’s a rare glimpse into true Byzantine art.
At its peak, over 1,000 monks lived here. Now, just a few nuns keep the place going.
Byzantine Monasteries Across the Island
Beyond Nea Moni, Chios has a handful of lesser-known monasteries tucked into peaceful valleys.
Panagia Krina dates back to the 13th century, surrounded by pine forests. Its chapel’s frescoes glow with color.
Agia Markella monastery honors the island’s patron saint. Pilgrims come from all over Greece.
Other Notable Monasteries:
- Panagia Krina (13th century)
- Agia Markella
- Moundon Monastery
- Agia Patrikios
Each one tells a different story. Some have original architecture, others hide ancient religious treasures.
Legacy of Constantine IX Monomachos
Emperor Constantine IX Monomachos left his mark on Chios by building Nea Moni. Local legend says he funded it after three hermit monks found an icon of the Virgin Mary.
His reign from 1042 to 1055 AD was a golden age for Byzantine art and culture.
Nea Moni thrived under imperial protection, owning vast lands and controlling trade during the Byzantine era.
Medieval Villages and Tales of Pirates
Chios’s medieval villages are like living museums of defensive architecture. Places like Volissos and Anavatos tell stories of pirates, survival, and sometimes abandonment.
Defensive Architecture and Stone Streets
Chios’ medieval villages were built like fortresses for a reason. Pirates attacked the island constantly, so locals designed settlements to withstand raids.
Mesta and Pyrgi are the best examples. Their narrow stone streets twist between tall houses, making it tough for attackers to get through.
Mesta’s medieval wall system is still impressive. The village forms a near-perfect square, with houses built right into the outer walls.
I wandered through alleys so tight, two people can barely squeeze by.
Pyrgi stands out for its xysta—those wild geometric patterns covering the buildings. Locals scrape through layers of plaster to create them.
Both villages have central squares surrounded by stone mansions. Wealthy mastic traders once lived here, needing protection for their valuable resin.
Volissos: Castle Views and Northern History
Volissos sits up in northern Chios, under the ruins of a medieval castle. I climbed up to the fortress and found walls that once guarded the whole region from pirates.
Image Source: Flickr
The castle goes back to the 11th century, built by the Byzantines. Later, Genoese merchants rebuilt parts to protect their trade.
From the top, you get sweeping views of the sea—no wonder they picked this spot.
The village spills down the hillside, with old stone houses clustered tight for safety. Some mansions are still standing, though a few could use some love.
Locals say Homer was born here, though, honestly, several Greek islands claim him.
Unlike the mastic villages in the south, Volissos focused on farming and fishing. The northern vibe is a little different, but just as captivating.
Anavatos: The Cliffside ‘Ghost’ Village
Anavatos clings to a dramatic cliff face, telling one of Chios’ most haunting medieval stories. I hiked up the steep path, sweating and out of breath, to reach this abandoned village that locals call the “ghost town.”
People built the settlement on an almost impossible rocky outcrop for maximum defense. The houses seem to sprout straight from the cliff itself.
This location made it nearly unreachable for attackers coming from the sea. It’s wild to imagine anyone thinking, “Yes, let’s put a village here,” but it worked for a while.
The 1822 tragedy shattered Anavatos’ life as a living village. During the Greek War of Independence, Ottoman forces stormed Chios. Instead of surrendering, many villagers jumped from the cliffs.
After that devastating event, everyone left. The silence now feels heavy, broken only by wind sweeping through the ruins.
Today, I wandered through empty stone houses and the shell of what used to be grand mansions. Only a few buildings still stand, including a tiny church tucked among the rubble.
The views from Anavatos are just unreal—rolling hills, the whole island, and the endless sea. Standing up there, I finally got why medieval folks would pick such a tough spot. It must have felt safe, at least for a while.
Unique Traditions, Local Life, and Tulip Fields
Chios keeps surprising me. Explosive Easter celebrations in Vrontados, citrus-scented mansions, and wild tulip fields bursting into color every spring. Add strong ouzo and local dishes, and you get a real taste of the island.
Easter Rocket War of Vrontados
One of the wildest things I’ve ever seen? The Easter rocket war in Vrontados. Two rival churches—Agios Markos and Panagia Erithiani—launch thousands of homemade rockets at each other every year.
Local families spend weeks building these wooden rockets, stuffing them with gunpowder. It’s a serious tradition, and everyone gets involved.
On Easter Saturday night, the sky turns into a wild, noisy battlefield. I watched from what I hoped was a safe distance as rockets shot across the night between the hillside churches.
The goal? Hit the other church’s bell tower. People keep unofficial scores, but, honestly, both sides always claim they won.
This whole thing started back in Ottoman times, when real cannons were banned. Villagers came up with their own version, and somehow, it’s still going.
Spectators stand behind safety barriers, but there’s always a sense of chaos. The rocket war feels like a celebration of good over evil, wrapped in pure adrenaline.
Kampos Mansions and Citrus Orchards
Kampos, just south of Chios Town, feels like a world apart. Behind tall stone walls, medieval mansions hide among endless citrus orchards.
Genoese merchants built these estates in the 14th century, blending Italian and Byzantine styles. Ornate doorways and lush gardens make the place feel almost enchanted.
I explored a few restored mansions that now work as museums or cozy guesthouses. The thick stone walls keep things cool, even in the hottest months.
Image Source: Wikimedia Commons
The orchards still produce juicy oranges, lemons, and those famous Chios mandarins. Ancient water wheels and old irrigation channels crisscross the fields, showing off some pretty advanced farming.
Many estates have pergolas draped in jasmine and bougainvillea. Shaded paths connect different corners of each property, making it easy to imagine life here centuries ago.
The area stays mostly residential, so you get a real peek at how wealthy Greeks once lived.
Chios Tulip Fields in Spring
Every spring, wild tulips—locals call them lalades—turn Chios’ countryside into a patchwork of red and green. These aren’t the neat, cultivated tulips from Holland. They’re wild, rare, and honestly, a little rebellious.
Four types of wild tulips bloom on Chios. Three grow only on this island, mostly in the central and southeastern regions.
The word “lalades” comes from the Persian “lale,” passed into local speech through Turkish during Ottoman times. Kind of amazing how language travels with flowers.
I found the best tulip displays tucked among olive groves and almond orchards between March and April. The red petals pop against the green fields, like someone spilled paint everywhere.
Important note: Always pick just the flower stem—never the bulb. Taking the bulb kills the plant for good, which is why wild tulips are disappearing.
Local photographer Konstantis put it well: “Pick just a few at the field’s edge. They’re like fires of spring painted by Byzantine artists.” And honestly, I couldn’t agree more.
Local Flavors: Ouzo and Island Cuisine
Chios really knows how to make ouzo, and wow, you can taste the difference right away. There’s this subtle pine and herbal kick—thanks to the island’s famous mastic.
I stopped by distilleries like Tetteris and Plomari, where they still use those old copper stills. You can sense the pride in every bottle, honestly.
The mastic resin? It’s what gives Chios ouzo that unmistakable edge. If you’re even a little bit curious about Greek spirits, this is the place to try them.
I loved sipping ouzo at waterfront tavernas with a spread of mezedes (think: small plates, big flavors). Grilled sardines, fresh octopus, and tangy local cheeses—trust me, they’re made for each other.
Ever heard of souma? It’s a bold spirit distilled from figs, and locals usually bring it out after dinner. I wasn’t sure at first, but it’s got a charm of its own.
Then there’s the island’s mastelo cheese, aged deep in caves. It’s sharp, salty, and honestly addictive—especially when you drizzle it with local honey and toss on a few walnuts.
If you’ve got a sweet tooth, don’t skip the spoon sweets. Chios does them differently, using rose petals, quince, or citrus peels, all preserved in syrup. They’re a classic welcome for guests, and I couldn’t resist having seconds.
