When I first planned my Italian getaway, the famous Cinque Terre villages on Liguria’s Eastern Riviera topped my list. But after some research, I changed course.
The Western Riviera of Liguria offers crystalline Mediterranean waters, breathtaking panoramas, and medieval villages without the overwhelming crowds of its eastern counterpart.
The Riviera di Ponente, as locals call it, feels like discovering a secret Italy. Last summer, I wandered through coastal towns where fishermen still mend nets by hand and inland villages where time seems to stand still.
The beauty here isn’t confined to postcard views—it extends to the authentic food scene where pesto was born and seafood comes straight from the morning’s catch.
My mornings began with pastries at local cafés, afternoons exploring hidden beaches, and evenings dining under vine-covered terraces.
The Western Riviera combines natural beauty, rich history, and incredible cuisine without fighting for elbow room with other tourists. The poetic atmosphere that envelops the landscape—from sea views to colorful village streets—convinced me I’d made the right choice.
Discovering the Charm of the Western Riviera
The Western Riviera of Liguria captivated me with its crystalline Mediterranean waters, ancient medieval villages, and far fewer tourists than its eastern counterpart. These less-traveled coastal gems offer authentic Italian experiences alongside breathtaking panoramas.
Genoa: Gateway to the West
My journey through Western Liguria began in Genoa, a city that perfectly balances historic grandeur with modern vitality. Walking through the labyrinth of caruggi (narrow alleyways) in Europe’s largest medieval center felt like stepping back in time.
The magnificent Palazzi dei Rolli, a UNESCO World Heritage site, showcases stunning Renaissance and Baroque architecture. These noble palaces once hosted visiting dignitaries and still impress with their grandeur.
I found the Porto Antico (Old Port) area completely revitalized, with the famous Aquarium and Biosphere designed by Renzo Piano. The waterfront promenade offers lovely views and plenty of spots to enjoy fresh focaccia, Genoa’s beloved street food.
Don’t miss Genoa’s pesto – it originated here! I took a cooking class and learned the traditional preparation with a marble mortar and wooden pestle.
San Remo and Imperia Province: The Unsung Treasures
San Remo surprised me with its belle époque elegance and fascinating mix of Italian and French influences. The famous Casino di Sanremo, with its impressive Art Nouveau facade, stands as a reminder of the city’s glamorous past.
The medieval district of La Pigna charmed me with its winding staircases and narrow passages that climb the hillside. Getting lost here was actually delightful!
In Imperia Province, I discovered Porto Maurizio with its impressive San Maurizio Cathedral dominating the skyline. The olive oil in this region is exceptional – I visited an ancient olive mill where families have produced liquid gold for generations.
Nearby Bussana Vecchia, an abandoned village reborn as an artists’ colony, offered a uniquely creative atmosphere. Wandering among studio-galleries housed in partially restored earthquake ruins was an unforgettable experience.
Unveiling Finale Ligure and Varigotti
Finale Ligure won me over with its perfect balance of history, nature, and beach life. The three distinct areas – Finale Marina, Finalborgo, and Finale Pia – each have their own character and charm.
Medieval Finalborgo ranks among Italy’s most beautiful villages. Its perfectly preserved walls enclose a network of atmospheric streets and squares filled with artisan shops and excellent restaurants.
Varigotti’s pastel-colored houses directly on the beach create a postcard-perfect scene. This former Saracen settlement has a distinctly different feel from other Ligurian towns.
The beach at Varigotti features fine golden sand and crystal-clear water – a rarity along the rocky Ligurian coast. I spent peaceful mornings here before the locals arrived, enjoying the gentle Mediterranean waves and stunning backdrop of dramatic cliffs.
The Allure of Authenticity: Lesser Known Villages
While exploring Liguria’s Western Riviera, I discovered charming villages that offer genuine Italian experiences without the tourist crowds. These hidden gems preserve local traditions and showcase the region’s natural beauty in ways that their famous eastern counterparts often cannot.
Tellaro and Fiascherino: Picturesque Perfection
Tellaro stole my heart the moment I wandered its narrow streets. This tiny fishing village sits perched on rocky cliffs, with colorful houses that seem to tumble right into the Mediterranean. Unlike the packed pathways of Cinque Terre, I often found myself alone here, savoring the peaceful atmosphere.
Nearby Fiascherino offers secluded beaches that remain relatively unknown to foreign visitors. The crystal-clear waters here rival any in Italy, but with a fraction of the crowds.
During my morning walks, I watched local fishermen prepare their boats—a daily ritual unchanged for generations. The authentic seafood restaurants serve fresh catch prepared with simple Ligurian recipes, a true taste of coastal tradition.
Camogli: A Fisherman’s Reverie
Camogli captured my imagination with its vibrant waterfront lined with tall, pastel-painted buildings. This former fishing village maintains its working harbor where colorful boats bob gently in the water. Unlike tourist-oriented ports, Camogli’s marina serves actual fishermen who still practice their trade.
The town’s name derives from “Case delle Mogli” (houses of wives), referencing the women who waited for their seafaring husbands to return. This maritime heritage remains visible everywhere.
I spent hours at the pebbly beach watching locals go about their day. The seafood here is exceptional—I enjoyed freshly caught fish at small family restaurants where owners greeted regulars by name.
What makes Camogli special is how it balances tourism with authentic daily life. Visitors become temporary participants in a genuine coastal community rather than mere observers.
Indulging in Ligurian Gastronomy
Food became one of the highlights of my Western Riviera adventure. The region’s cuisine captures the essence of the Mediterranean with its simplicity and fresh ingredients.
Savoring the Pesto of its Birthplace
Nothing compares to tasting authentic pesto Genovese in its birthplace of Liguria. I watched in awe as a local chef demonstrated the traditional way of making this iconic sauce—crushing basil leaves, pine nuts, garlic, Parmigiano-Reggiano, and Pecorino with a marble mortar and wooden pestle.
The basil grown in this region has a distinctly sweet flavor thanks to the unique microclimate. This makes Ligurian pesto incomparable to versions I’ve tried elsewhere.
In small trattorias along the Western Riviera, I sampled pesto served the traditional way—with trofie pasta, potatoes, and green beans. The sauce clings perfectly to the twisted pasta shapes, creating a simple yet unforgettable meal.
Many restaurants in this less touristy part of Liguria still make pesto daily. The vibrant green color and intense aroma tell you it’s the real deal—no preservatives or shortcuts.
Seaside Serenity and Adventure
The Western Riviera offers incredible coastal experiences that perfectly balance tranquility and excitement. I discovered hidden gems along this coastline that provided both peaceful moments and thrilling adventures.
Santa Margherita Ligure to San Fruttuoso: A Journey by Sea
Santa Margherita Ligure stole my heart with its colorful buildings and relaxed atmosphere. Unlike the packed eastern towns, I could actually enjoy a peaceful morning cappuccino at the harbor watching fishermen bring in their catch.
The boat journey from Santa Margherita to San Fruttuoso was absolutely magical. Small passenger ferries depart regularly, carrying far fewer tourists than you’d find on boats heading to Cinque Terre.
San Fruttuoso’s hidden bay, accessible only by boat or hiking trail, houses a beautiful 10th-century abbey that seems to rise directly from the sea. I spent hours exploring this secluded wonder with just a handful of other visitors.
Pro tip: Take the first morning boat to have the abbey almost to yourself for at least an hour!
Thrills of Snorkeling in the Mediterranean’s Tranquil Waters
The crystal-clear Mediterranean waters along the Western Riviera offer spectacular snorkeling opportunities without the crowds. I found perfect snorkeling spots near San Fruttuoso where visibility often extends 15-20 meters.
Marine life here is surprisingly diverse. During my underwater adventures, I spotted colorful wrasses, sea bream, and even octopuses hiding among the rocks.
The protected marine area ensures clean waters and healthy ecosystems. Water temperatures remain pleasant from June through September, making extended snorkeling sessions comfortable without a wetsuit.
What made this experience truly special was the absence of tourist crowds. Many days, I had entire coves to myself – something virtually impossible along the eastern coast during travel season.
Exploring the Romantic Paths
Liguria’s ancient footpaths offer the most authentic way to experience this stunning coastline. These cobblestoned trails connect charming villages and provide spectacular views that no car journey could match.
Via dell’Amore: Love in the Landscape
The famous “Path of Love” between Riomaggiore and Manarola in Cinque Terre captures the essence of romance along the Italian Riviera. This cliffside walkway carved into rugged rock faces offers breathtaking sea views that made my heart race.
Lovers have etched their names into the stone and attached locks to railings for decades, creating a living monument to romance. While parts of this path have faced closures due to landslides, the sections that remain open are worth every step.
The pathway’s gentle curves follow the coastline’s natural contours, with vibrant wildflowers dotting the route in spring. I found myself stopping every few minutes to photograph the dramatic meeting of azure waters against the rocky cliffs below.
Lerici: The Poetry of the Sea
Lerici, nestled in the “Gulf of Poets,” earned its nickname from the literary giants who found inspiration in its beauty. Walking along Lerici’s seaside promenade, I understood why poets like Shelley and Byron were drawn to this magical place.
The coastal path from Lerici to nearby Tellaro became my favorite morning ritual. This lesser-known route offers the perfect balance of natural beauty and cultural discovery. It also doesn’t have the crowds of Cinque Terre.
Lerici’s imposing medieval castle stands guard over the colorful harbor, creating a stunning backdrop for sunset strolls. The narrow lanes leading up from the waterfront are lined with charming cafes. Here, I enjoyed fresh seafood pasta while watching fishing boats return with their daily catch.
