I never expected to leave my heart in a small coastal city in Spain’s Basque Country. But that’s exactly what happened in San Sebastián. From the moment I stepped onto the golden sands of La Concha Beach, with its perfect crescent shape hugging the bay, I was captivated by this seaside gem.
The magical combination of three stunning beaches, world-class food, and unique Basque culture makes San Sebastián unlike anywhere else I’ve visited in Spain.
My days quickly fell into a perfect rhythm. Mornings spent alternating between the family-friendly waves at La Concha and Ondarreta beaches, and the more adventurous surf at Zurriola Beach. But it’s the evenings in San Sebastián that truly transformed my trip into something unforgettable.
Wandering through the narrow streets of Parte Vieja (Old Town), I discovered the art of pintxo hopping. I moved from bar to bar, sampling these small, creative Basque tapas alongside glasses of local txakoli wine.
Places like Borda Berri won me over with their perfectly seared scallops, while Mesón Portaletas served sirloin pintxos that still appear in my dreams. Though I intended to stay just three days, I extended my visit twice. San Sebastián isn’t just a destination; it’s an experience that combines the best of Spanish beaches with possibly the most incredible food scene I’ve encountered in all my travels.
Discovering the Charm of San Sebastián’s Old Town
Walking through San Sebastián’s Old Town feels like stepping into a storybook filled with history, culture, and mouthwatering aromas. The narrow streets and historic buildings create a magical atmosphere that captured my heart from the moment I arrived.
A Journey Through Parte Vieja
The Parte Vieja (Old Town) is the beating heart of San Sebastián. Its mid-19th century buildings and cobblestone streets transport you to another era. I found myself getting happily lost among the winding pathways, each turn revealing a new treasure to discover.
During the day, the area buzzes with locals shopping at small boutiques and relaxing at charming cafes. The atmosphere shifts in the evening when the streets come alive with Spanish nightlife energy.
What struck me most was how the Old Town perfectly balances preserving history while embracing modern Basque culture. The buildings tell stories of the past, but the energy feels wonderfully current and authentic.
Don’t miss Plaza de la Constitución, the beautiful main square where locals and visitors gather. Its numbered balconies (once used for bullfighting spectators) offer a glimpse into the city’s history.
Must-Visit Pintxos Bars
The Old Town is home to San Sebastián’s most incredible pintxos bars. These small, bite-sized delicacies are the Basque version of tapas and will forever change how you think about bar food.
My Top Pintxos Spots:
- Bar Txepetxa – Famous for their anchovy pintxos with unique toppings
- La Cuchara de San Telmo – Their braised beef cheek melts in your mouth
- Gandarias – Try the seared foie gras with apple compote
- La Viña – Home to possibly the best cheesecake I’ve ever tasted
The traditional pintxos crawl (or “txikiteo”) involves visiting multiple bars and enjoying one or two specialties at each. I recommend starting around 8 PM when locals begin their evening pintxos adventure.
What makes these bars special isn’t just the food but the lively atmosphere. Strike up conversations with locals who are always proud to share recommendations!
Historical Sightseeing Spots
Beyond food, the Old Town offers fascinating historical sights that tell the story of San Sebastián’s rich past. The beautiful San Vicente Church dates back to the 16th century and features stunning Gothic architecture.
The San Telmo Museum, housed in a 16th-century Dominican convent, showcases Basque culture through art and artifacts. I spent hours exploring its exhibits and learning about the region’s unique heritage.
For breathtaking views, climb the path up Monte Urgull at the edge of the Old Town. The hike isn’t difficult, and the panoramic views of the bay, beaches, and city are absolutely worth it.
The 12th-century castle and statue of Christ at the top create perfect photo opportunities. I timed my visit for sunset and was rewarded with golden light washing over the entire city.
The Allure of San Sebastián’s Beaches
San Sebastián’s coastline offers three distinct beach experiences, each with its own unique charm along the stunning Bay of Biscay. The city’s beaches blend natural beauty with urban convenience, creating perfect spots for relaxation, family fun, and adventure.
Relaxing at La Concha Beach
La Concha Beach is truly the crown jewel of San Sebastián. Named for its shell-like shape, this crescent of golden sand nestled in the heart of the city captured my heart immediately.
The calm, turquoise waters make it perfect for swimming, even with children. I loved how the gentle waves lapped at the shore while Monte Urgull and Isla Santa Clara provided a picturesque backdrop.
Walking the beautiful promenade alongside La Concha became my daily ritual. The elegant white railings and vintage lampposts give it an old-world charm that perfectly complements the natural beauty.
What makes La Concha truly special is how it transforms throughout the day. Morning brings locals doing yoga and jogging, while afternoons fill with sunbathers and families. By evening, it becomes the perfect spot to watch the sun sink behind distant mountains.
Playa de Ondarreta: A Family Paradise
Ondarreta Beach sits at the western end of La Concha Bay and quickly became my go-to spot for a more laid-back beach day. This smaller stretch of sand offers a quieter atmosphere while still providing gorgeous views.
The beach is wonderfully equipped for families with young children. I noticed several well-maintained playgrounds right off the sand where kids played happily. The shallow water near the shore creates safe swimming areas perfect for little ones.
Palm trees line the promenade, offering welcome shade on hot summer days. I often grabbed a gelato from one of the nearby shops and enjoyed it on a bench while watching sailboats drift across the bay.
Local families clearly favor this beach, which speaks volumes about its quality. The clean facilities, convenient location, and relaxed vibe make it easy to spend an entire day here without feeling overcrowded.
Surf and Sunsets at Zurriola Beach
Crossing the river to the Gros neighborhood led me to Zurriola Beach, where the atmosphere shifts dramatically from La Concha’s refinement to something more energetic and youthful.
This is surfer paradise! The powerful waves attract board riders from around the world. I spent hours watching talented surfers navigate the breaks, occasionally gathering the courage to take a lesson myself.
The beach has a distinctly bohemian vibe with impromptu volleyball games, guitar players, and young people lounging on colorful towels. Beach bars along the promenade serve refreshing drinks and casual bites.
Zurriola offers the most spectacular sunsets in San Sebastián. Nothing compares to watching the sky turn brilliant shades of orange and pink as the sun sinks into the Bay of Biscay. I often joined locals sitting on the sand, transfixed by nature’s daily show.
The Culinary Art of Pintxos and Beyond
San Sebastián’s food scene captivated my heart from the first bite. The city’s pintxos culture represents more than just food—it’s an artistic expression of Basque culinary identity that transforms simple ingredients into extraordinary experiences.
Unraveling the Pintxo Experience
Pintxos are not just Spain’s answer to tapas—they’re elaborate miniature culinary masterpieces. Walking into a pintxos bar in San Sebastián feels like entering an art gallery where food is the medium. My first time was overwhelming—counters lined with colorful creations, each more enticing than the last.
The ritual itself is part of the charm. You grab a plate, point to what looks delicious, and enjoy it standing at the bar while chatting with locals. Some bars display everything openly while others have “hidden” hot pintxos you must order directly.
What I love most is the social aspect. Bar-hopping (or “txikiteo” as locals call it) means enjoying one or two pintxos with a drink before moving to the next spot. This creates a vibrant atmosphere where food becomes community.
Pairing Pintxos with Local Wines
The perfect companion to pintxos is undoubtedly txakoli, the region’s signature slightly sparkling, dry white wine. I’ll never forget my first pour—the server held the bottle high above the glass, creating a dramatic stream that enhances the wine’s natural effervescence.
Txakoli’s crisp acidity cuts through rich pintxos beautifully. For heartier options like beef cheeks, I discovered that Rioja wines from nearby vineyards make excellent pairings.
Most pintxos bars offer wines by the glass for €2-4, making it easy to try different pairings throughout your crawl. Don’t be shy about asking bartenders for recommendations—they’re usually happy to suggest the perfect match for whatever you’re eating.
Some favorite pairings I discovered:
- Gilda pintxos (olive, anchovy, pepper) + txakoli
- Mushroom pintxos + local red Tempranillo
- Seafood pintxos + Getariako Txakolina (coastal variant)
A Guide to Traditional Pintxos
My pintxos education began with the classics that no food tour should miss. The iconic gilda (named after Rita Hayworth’s character) combines anchovy, olive, and peppers on a skewer—salty, briny perfection in one bite.
At Ganbara, I fell in love with their wild mushroom pintxos, simply grilled with egg yolk. Borda Berri serves melt-in-your-mouth beef cheeks that changed my understanding of what tender meat could be.
La Cuchara de San Telmo offers modern takes on classics—their foie pintxo remains one of my most memorable bites in Spain. For seafood lovers, the prawn skewers found throughout the old town showcase the Atlantic’s bounty.
What surprised me most was how each bar specializes in just a few signature pintxos rather than offering endless variety. This dedication to perfection makes each stop on your pintxos crawl uniquely rewarding.
From Ganbara to Arzak: Exploring Michelin Stars
Beyond pintxos, San Sebastián boasts an impressive concentration of Michelin stars. My culinary adventure wouldn’t be complete without mentioning Arzak, the three-star temple of Basque cuisine where Juan Mari Arzak and his daughter Elena create innovative dishes rooted in tradition.
Saving for months before my trip allowed me one splurge meal at Arzak. The tasting menu featuring sea bass with “sleeping” potatoes and the signature “egg with earth” justified every euro spent.
For those with smaller budgets, lunch tasting menus often provide access to these culinary temples at reduced prices. Some Michelin chefs also run more casual bistros—Martin Berasategui’s Bodegón Alejandro offers excellent value.
What makes San Sebastián truly special is this culinary range—from €2 pintxos to €200 tasting menus, all executed with the same devotion to quality ingredients and techniques.
Embarking on a Pintxos Crawl Adventure
The heart of San Sebastián’s food culture comes alive through the tradition of pintxos crawling—an experience that transformed how I view dining out forever. Moving from bar to bar, sampling these small culinary masterpieces while sipping local txakoli wine creates memories that linger long after the trip ends.
Planning Your Pintxos Route
When I first visited San Sebastián, I quickly learned that a successful pintxos crawl requires some strategy. The narrow lanes of the Old Town (Parte Vieja) hold dozens of bars, each with their own specialties.
I recommend starting around 8:00 PM when locals begin their evening ritual. Rather than ordering many dishes at one spot, the authentic approach is to enjoy 1-2 pintxos with a small drink at each bar before moving to the next.
Some bars display their creations on the counter, while others prepare them fresh to order. The best approach? Look at what locals are eating and point if you’re unsure about pronunciation!
Pro tip: Bring cash for easier transactions, and don’t be afraid to politely push your way to the bar counter—it’s part of the experience!
Fuego Negro and Gandarias Taberna
A Fuego Negro quickly became my favorite pintxos spot. They have an avant-garde approach to traditional Basque flavors. Their “kobe-burger” pintxo with banana chip might sound strange. But it tastes divine when paired with a glass of Rioja.
Just a few doors down, Gandarias Taberna offers a completely different but equally authentic experience. Their seared foie gras and perfectly cooked beef tenderloin pintxos showcase why simplicity works when ingredients are exceptional.
Both places drizzle their creations with high-quality olive oil. This adds a peppery finish to each bite. The contrast between Fuego Negro’s modern molecular gastronomy and Gandarias’ traditional approach shows the wonderful diversity of pintxos culture.
I found myself returning to these spots multiple times during my stay. Each visit revealing new flavors.
The Art of Txikiteo
Txikiteo—the Basque tradition of moving from bar to bar—is more than just eating. It’s a social ritual I came to cherish. The locals taught me that a proper pintxos crawl involves savoring small glasses of wine or cider (called “txikitos”) at each stop.
This isn’t about getting drunk but appreciating different flavors and maintaining conversation. I watched how friends would spend just 20-30 minutes at each establishment before moving on. Conversations flowed seamlessly between venues.
While Michelin-starred restaurants like Akelaré might showcase Basque cuisine’s refined side, txikiteo reveals its social heart. The pintxos themselves serve as conversation pieces—little edible art that brings people together.
What surprised me most was how even on busy nights, this carefully choreographed dance of moving between crowded bars felt natural and joyful rather than chaotic.
Essential Knowledge for the San Sebastián Traveler
Before you pack your bags for this Basque Country paradise, there are a few practical matters that will make your visit to San Sebastián much smoother. The city rewards those who come prepared with just a bit of insider knowledge.
Accommodations and Logistics
The Old Town (Parte Vieja) is where I stay whenever possible for its proximity to pintxo bars and La Concha beach. Book at least three months ahead if visiting during summer or festival season.
Hotels near La Concha Bay offer stunning views but come with premium prices. For budget travelers, consider guesthouses (pensiones) or apartments in the Gros neighborhood near Zurriola Beach.
Public transportation in San Sebastián is excellent and affordable. The Dbus system covers the entire city. A Dbus Tourist Card (€9 for three days) provides unlimited rides.
Walking is my preferred way to explore. The city is compact enough that most attractions are within 30 minutes on foot. Taxis are readily available but not necessary for most visitors.
Weather, Attire, and Cultural Norms
San Sebastián enjoys a mild oceanic climate, but brings rain gear regardless of when you visit! The city averages 180 rainy days per year.
Typical Weather by Season:
| Season | Temperature | What to Expect |
|---|---|---|
| Summer | 18-25°C | Busy beaches, crowded pintxo bars |
| Spring/Fall | 10-18°C | Fewer tourists, occasional rain |
| Winter | 8-14°C | Quieter atmosphere, more rain |
Dress smartly but comfortably. San Sebastián residents take pride in their appearance, so super casual beach attire should stay at the beach.
Dining happens later than you might expect – locals eat dinner starting around 9pm. Many pintxo bars don’t get busy until after 8pm, especially on weekends.
Navigating the Language and Currency
The Basque Country is bilingual. Both Spanish and Basque (Euskara) are widely spoken.
Learning a few Basque phrases shows respect for the local culture.
Basic Basque phrases I use daily:
- Kaixo (kai-sho) = Hello
- Eskerrik asko (es-keh-rik as-ko) = Thank you
- Agur (ah-goor) = Goodbye
Spain uses the Euro (€). Credit cards are widely accepted in San Sebastián. Keep some cash handy for smaller pintxo bars and market purchases.
The cathedral (Catedral del Buen Pastor) serves as a good landmark when navigating the city. When sampling local wines, try both Rioja and the local txakoli. Txakoli is a slightly sparkling, acidic white wine that pairs perfectly with seafood pintxos.
