Hidden in Italy’s southern region, Matera feels like nowhere else I’ve ever wandered. Its ancient Sassi district is a maze of cave dwellings carved straight into limestone cliffs, forming a honeycomb of prehistoric homes that stretch all the way back to the Paleolithic Age.
These caves, once labeled the “shame of Italy” because of the deep poverty inside, have somehow become some of Europe’s most coveted luxury accommodations. The transformation is honestly kind of wild.
As I wandered Matera’s winding stone alleys, I felt like I’d stepped into another era. The Sassi make up one of humanity’s oldest lived-in settlements, which still blows my mind a little.
What really caught my eye? The way these ancient caves have gotten a new life—now you’ll find boutique hotels like Relais & Châteaux and Sextantio’s Le Grotte della Civita tucked right into the rock, blending modern comforts with thousands of years of history.
Matera, a UNESCO World Heritage site, offers something truly one-of-a-kind. The contrast between rough stone and sleek modern design kept me totally hooked.
Staying in a cave hotel isn’t just a place to sleep—it’s like living inside a slice of history, but with WiFi and hot showers. The journey from ancient civilization to slum to hidden gem is honestly one of Italy’s greatest comeback stories.
The Historic Origins of Matera’s Cave Dwellings
Matera’s cave homes go way back—over 9,000 years, if you can believe it. Their story is really about human grit, cleverness, and a surprising second act.
Ancient Cave Habitation
I was stunned to learn that the first people settled here way back in the Paleolithic. They dug homes right into the soft limestone ravine.
These natural caves shielded them from rough weather and wild animals. That’s some next-level problem-solving.
What sets Matera apart is how people learned to thrive in such a tough landscape. They built water collection systems, carving out cisterns to catch rainwater.
Even today, you can still walk through these ancient caves and spot the clever touches early settlers left behind. They built networks of caves with different spaces for living, working, and worshipping.
The caves always kept a steady temperature—cool in summer, cozy in winter. That made them surprisingly comfortable for this harsh part of Basilicata.
Transformation Through the Ages
Over the centuries, Matera’s caves changed a lot. Residents started out with simple shelters, but by Roman times, they added stone facades to the natural caves.
By the Middle Ages, the Sassi had turned into a bustling community with churches, workshops, and houses carved into the cliffs.
Religion left its mark everywhere. More than 150 rock churches filled the area, many still decorated with Byzantine frescoes.
As the city grew, people built upward, stacking new homes on top of old caves. They used stones from deep inside the hillside to build above ground.
The neighborhoods became a tangled web, with rooftops doubling as streets for the homes above. That’s part of what gives Matera its magical, labyrinth-like vibe.
Carlo Levi and the Rediscovery
By the 1940s, the Sassi had sunk into terrible poverty. Italian writer Carlo Levi spent time here in exile and wrote about what he saw in “Christ Stopped at Eboli.”
Levi described families living in caves with their animals, surrounded by disease and heartbreakingly high infant mortality.
His book shocked Italy and forced the government to step in. In the 1950s, officials moved most people out of the caves into new housing.
The Sassi sat abandoned—empty, crumbling, and known as “the shame of Italy.” For decades, hardly anyone paid attention to these ancient homes.
Levi’s words, even though they brought negative attention at first, eventually set off the chain of events that led to Matera’s unlikely revival.
UNESCO World Heritage Site Designation
I watched Matera’s fortunes shift after UNESCO stepped in back in 1993. They called the Sassi “the most outstanding example of a troglodyte settlement in the Mediterranean.”
That recognition sparked a wave of restoration and preservation. Suddenly, money flowed in and people started moving back to their old caves—this time, all fixed up.
Strict local laws now protect the Sassi’s historic character. Any restoration has to use traditional methods and materials, with modern comforts added carefully.
UNESCO’s stamp of approval helped put Matera on the map as a cultural hotspot. In 2019, the city even became a European Capital of Culture, drawing visitors from all over.
What used to symbolize poverty now stands for resilience and culture. The caves that once sheltered ancient people now house boutique hotels, restaurants, and museums—keeping the past alive while starting something new.
Life in the Sassi: From Poverty to Cultural Icon
The Sassi’s story is one of wild transformation, from grinding poverty to one of Italy’s most beloved cultural treasures. It’s a lesson in grit and rebirth.
Daily Life in the Cave Houses
Life in Matera’s caves was tough. The soft tuff stone provided insulation, but the homes had few comforts.
Most families lived in tight quarters with their animals, which made for pretty rough hygiene and lots of illness.
Getting water was a daily struggle. Clever residents built cisterns to catch rain since running water didn’t show up until much later.
Shared ovens brought people together, turning hardship into a kind of community.
The Sassi’s stacked design meant one family’s roof was another’s terrace. That setup created tight-knit neighborhoods, even in hard times.
Survival required resourcefulness. Every inch of space mattered, and families organized their caves to make the most of what they had.
Poverty and Abandonment
By the mid-1900s, Matera had a reputation as “the shame of Italy.” Carlo Levi’s book exposed just how bad things had gotten.
In 1952, the government forced about 15,000 people to move to new housing. The caves emptied out and fell into ruin.
The Sassi became a ghost town in the city’s heart. Generations of memories faded as the homes crumbled.
For years, it looked like the cave dwellings might disappear for good.
Preservation and Restoration
Things started to turn around in the 1980s. Local activists pushed hard to save the Sassi.
In 1986, new laws let former residents and their families reclaim and fix up the caves.
Restorers focused on keeping the authentic feel while adding basics like plumbing and electricity.
UNESCO’s recognition in 1993 brought global attention and funding.
Now, many caves have become boutique hotels, restaurants, and museums. These new spaces offer luxury but still respect the old bones of the buildings.
European Capital of Culture Recognition
In 2019, Matera hit a high point when it became a European Capital of Culture. That title brought a flood of attention to the city’s wild history and architecture.
All year, art, performances, and cultural events filled the city, showing off the Sassi’s transformation. Tourists arrived in droves to sleep in the caves once considered unlivable.
Tourism has exploded since then. The Sassi, once a symbol of hardship, now draw travelers looking for real cultural experiences in one-of-a-kind settings.
Matera’s story is one of Europe’s most dramatic urban revivals. A place people once abandoned is now a destination that’s on everyone’s wish list.
Architectural Marvels and Spiritual Landmarks
Matera’s Sassi are a wild mix of human creativity and rugged landscape. The caves have changed over centuries, creating a heritage that’s both ancient and surprisingly sophisticated.
Unique Cave Architecture
Every time I walk through the Sassi, I’m struck by what people managed with just tuff stone. This soft rock let them carve entire homes right into the hills.
The caves aren’t just holes in the ground. They have rainwater cisterns, clever ventilation, and terraced layouts that turn every bit of space into something useful.
It’s wild how these homes have changed. Many now hold boutique hotels with all the modern perks, but still show off rough stone walls and quirky shapes.
You just can’t replicate that atmosphere in a regular building. The leap from survival shelter to luxury suite is honestly pretty inspiring.
Rupestrian Churches and Sacred Spaces
Matera’s spiritual heart beats in its rupestrian churches—places carved straight into the rock by early Christians and Byzantine monks.
Inside, I’ve found frescoes that somehow survived centuries of damp and darkness. These paintings tell stories and preserve a medieval world that’s long gone.
Santa Maria de Idris stands out, perched dramatically on a rocky peak. Its interior blends cave and manmade elements in a way you won’t find anywhere else.
The Convicinio di Sant’Antonio, with four rock churches linked together, is another spot I always recommend. The acoustics are unreal—a whisper echoes through the stone chambers.
These churches aren’t grand cathedrals, but their intimacy and hand-carved details make them feel even more special. Faith here is literally etched in stone.
Sasso Caveoso and Sasso Barisano
Matera’s Sassi split into two neighborhoods, each with its own personality. Sasso Caveoso keeps more of the raw, ancient cave vibe, almost like a prehistoric amphitheater.
As I walk through Caveoso, I see how homes stack up the hillside, facing the ravine. Many original caves are still open, giving a peek at how people once lived.
Sasso Barisano, on the other hand, feels fancier. Here, caves hide behind detailed stone facades, and homes spill over multiple levels with inner courtyards.
It’s fascinating how two places, built from the same rock, ended up so different. Barisano leans ornate, while Caveoso stays close to its roots.
Spectacular Views and Urban Landscape
Matera’s setting along a ravine makes for jaw-dropping views. From certain spots, the Sassi look like they’re growing right out of the rock.
Dawn and dusk are pure magic. Sunlight creeps across the stone in the morning, and at sunset, the city glows gold. The way the rock catches the light changes by the hour.
My favorite view comes from Belvedere di Murgia Timone, across the ravine. From here, the city looks sculpted, with church towers and a maze of rooftops rising from the cliffs.
Matera’s cityscape isn’t flat—it climbs and twists, with staircases connecting different levels in a way that makes getting lost almost fun. If you love exploring, you’ll never run out of corners to discover here.
The Rise of Luxury: From Cave Dwelling to Boutique Hotels
The ancient Sassi of Matera have changed dramatically, going from simple shelters to world-class places to stay. This transformation has pumped new energy into the caves, all while keeping their history and quirky charm alive.
Conversion of Caves into Luxury Hotels
Fifteen years ago, the Sassi district had just five hotels. Now, these Paleolithic caves have turned into some of Italy’s most sought-after accommodations.
Developers have blended ancient stonework with modern luxury, creating spaces that respect the past but still feel fresh and comfortable. The shift started slowly. A few bold hoteliers saw something special in these cave dwellings.
What used to be rough shelters now have heated floors, designer sofas, and spa-like bathrooms carved right into the rock.
When I walk through the Sassi now, I can’t help but notice how these abandoned spaces have found a new purpose. A Relais & Châteaux property will open soon, which just adds another layer to Matera’s growing reputation for luxury.
Noteworthy Hotels: Palazzo Gattini and Beyond
Palazzo Gattini is easily one of Matera’s top luxury hotels. This old aristocratic home mixes elegant design with historic touches, and the rooftop terrace offers jaw-dropping views over the Sassi.
Other standout places include:
- Sextantio Le Grotte della Civita: Ancient caves turned into minimalist luxury rooms
- Sant’Angelo Luxury Resort: Restored cave dwellings connected by winding paths
- Aquatio Cave Luxury Hotel & Spa: Boasts an underground spa carved into the rock
During my stay, I noticed how these hotels strike a balance between authenticity and comfort. Many keep the original cave features but sneak in modern perks.
Room rates usually fall between €200-500 per night, which makes sense given how unique and popular these places have become.
Dining and Restaurants in the Sassi
The food scene in Matera’s Sassi has grown right alongside its hotels. I’ve found cave restaurants serving creative takes on traditional Basilicata cuisine.
Some of my favorite meals happened in candlelit cave restaurants where chefs highlight ingredients like podolica beef, cruschi peppers, and local wines.
A lot of hotel restaurants draw non-guests with their inventive menus. For a real taste of the region, go for places serving:
- Fresh handmade orecchiette pasta
- Crusco peppers (dried red peppers)
- Pane di Matera (that local bread with its funky shape)
Eating in these cave settings just makes the experience unforgettable. The food and the atmosphere really work together.
Sustainable Restoration and Hospitality
Sustainability sits at the heart of restoring Matera’s cave hotels. I’ve seen developers put a lot of thought into balancing preservation with modern needs, often sticking with traditional methods and local materials.
Many hotels use:
- Rainwater collection systems
- Energy-efficient climate control built for caves
- Locally-made furnishings and amenities
Restorers respect the Sassi’s UNESCO World Heritage status while making these spaces work for today’s travelers.
Hotel owners I’ve chatted with talk a lot about supporting the community. They hire local staff and highlight regional products, which keeps the culture alive and creates jobs.
Matera Today: Tourism, Adventure, and Lasting Impressions
Matera has gone from a forgotten city to one of Italy’s most enchanting destinations. The old cave dwellings now buzz with visitors exploring ancient corridors and relaxing in modern luxury tucked inside prehistoric walls.
Tour Guide Experiences and Local Insights
Walking through Matera with a local guide completely changed how I saw the city. My guide, Antonio, shared family stories about life in the caves. I learned that people even kept animals inside for warmth during the brutal winters.
“We don’t just show tourists the caves,” Antonio said. “We share our grandparents’ memories.”
The best guides take you off the usual routes. They point out hidden rock churches with faded frescoes you’d probably miss alone.
They explain how families collected rainwater in stone cisterns. Locals once felt embarrassed about their cave homes, but now they celebrate this heritage.
Top Tourist Attractions and Activities
The Cathedral of Matera rises above the Civita, offering panoramic views over the Sassi. Its Romanesque architecture stands in striking contrast to the rough caves below.
Casa Grotta di Vico Solitario gives you a look at how families lived here until the 1950s. I was honestly impressed by their clever use of space.
Must-Visit Attractions in Matera:
- MUSMA (Museum of Contemporary Sculpture) – art displayed in cave galleries
- Palombaro Lungo – a massive underground water cistern
- Crypt of Original Sin – with vibrant 9th-century frescoes
- Sasso Caveoso – the more “authentic” cave district
At night, I can’t resist a candlelit dinner in a cave restaurant. The glow on the ancient stone walls feels magical—there’s nothing else quite like it in Italy.
Hiking Trails and Outdoor Exploration
The ravine around Matera offers some incredible hiking. I spent a morning on the Gravina Canyon trail, and the view of the city rising across the valley was unforgettable.
Murgia Park, just across the ravine, hides over 150 rock churches with ancient frescoes. Bring sturdy shoes—the trails are rocky and uneven.
If you’re up for an early start, hike to the Belvedere viewpoint before sunrise. Watching the first light hit the Sassi is something I’ll never forget.
Marked trails link prehistoric settlements all around Matera. Shepherds and farmers have used these paths for centuries.
The Mediterranean scrubland here bursts with unique plants and wildlife. In spring, wildflowers pop against the pale limestone, and the contrast is just stunning.
Travel Tips for Visiting Matera
You’ll definitely want to pack comfortable shoes. Those ancient stone streets? They’re uneven, and if it rains, they get pretty slippery. Trust me, I found out the hard way.
Try to visit in the shoulder season—April to May or September to October. It’s less crowded, and you won’t have to battle the brutal summer heat. When it’s over 95°F, wandering around in the afternoon just isn’t fun.
You’ll find all sorts of places to stay, from simple B&Bs to those fancy cave hotels. I picked a mid-range spot called Sextantio Le Grotte della Civita. Sleeping in a modernized ancient cave was honestly unforgettable.
Practical Matera Tips:
- Bring a water bottle. You’ll spot fountains around town that give you fresh drinking water.
- Give yourself at least two full days to see everything.
- If you’re visiting during high season, book your guided tours ahead of time.
- Renting a car makes it easier to check out other towns in Basilicata.
- Most restaurants shut down from 3 to 7pm for the classic Italian riposo.
_-_BEIC_6341423.jpg){kind=link}