Nestled on Italy’s Adriatic coast, Ancona serves as the perfect gateway to the hidden gem of Le Marche region. I discovered this charming port city last summer and was immediately captivated by its unique blend of history, culture, and stunning coastal views. Ancona’s central location makes it an ideal base for exploring Le Marche. It’s one of Italy’s most underrated regions that offers authentic Italian experiences without the crowds of Tuscany or the Amalfi Coast.
When I first arrived in Ancona, I was struck by how the city manages to be both a working port and a beautiful historic center. The Cathedral of San Ciriaco perched on a hill offers breathtaking panoramic views of the harbor and Adriatic Sea that I still can’t get out of my mind. What makes this city special is how it connects travelers to the rest of Le Marche. The region is filled with medieval villages, rolling countryside, and pristine beaches that remain wonderfully untouched by mass tourism.
My time exploring Ancona and Le Marche showed me the region’s true magic. It delivers all the Italian experiences you crave (amazing food, historical sites, beautiful landscapes) but with a more relaxed and authentic atmosphere. The local seafood dishes alone are worth the trip, especially paired with the region’s excellent but lesser-known Verdicchio wines. Whether you’re planning to use Ancona as a jumping-off point or as a destination itself, this gateway city will surprise you with its charm and convenience.
Exploring Ancona’s Rich Heritage
Ancona’s history stretches back thousands of years, creating a fascinating tapestry of cultural influences. Walking through the city feels like stepping through different chapters of Italian history, with monuments and buildings that tell stories of Roman conquests, medieval faith, and Renaissance artistry.
Architectural Wonders: From Roman to Renaissance
The majestic Arch of Trajan stands as my favorite starting point when exploring Ancona’s heritage. Built in 115 AD, this impressive marble monument watches over the harbor, showcasing the city’s ancient importance as a Roman port.
As I wandered up to the hilltop Cathedral of San Ciriaco, I was rewarded with both stunning sea views and remarkable 11th-century architecture. This church, built on the site of a former Greek temple, blends Romanesque and Byzantine styles beautifully.
The Lazzaretto (also called Mole Vanvitelliana) is truly unique. This pentagonal building sits on its own artificial island in the harbor. Luigi Vanvitelli designed it in the 18th century, and it originally served as a quarantine station but now hosts cultural events.
Palazzo Ferretti represents the Renaissance splendor that came to Ancona. Its elegant façade and interior frescoes show the wealth that flowed through this port city during its golden age.
Museums and Cultural Highlights
The Archaeological Museum of the Marche, housed in the stunning Palazzo Ferretti, holds treasures that amazed me. Its collection spans from prehistoric artifacts to Roman sculptures, with Picene artifacts being particularly fascinating as they showcase the region’s pre-Roman civilization.
Image Source: Wikimedia Commons
Teatro delle Muse stands as the cultural heart of modern Ancona. After extensive renovation, this 19th-century theater now hosts operas, concerts, and theatrical performances. I found its neoclassical interior as impressive as the performances themselves.
The city’s numerous churches hold artistic treasures often overlooked by travelers. The Church of Santa Maria della Piazza features an incredible façade with intricate stone carvings that I spent nearly an hour photographing.
Walking Ancona’s streets, I discovered smaller museums and galleries that highlight local traditions, maritime history, and contemporary art scenes. Even casual exploration reveals hidden gems tucked between the city’s more famous landmarks.
Natural Wonders of Le Marche Region
Le Marche offers some of Italy’s most breathtaking natural landscapes, from dramatic coastlines to majestic mountains. The region’s diverse terrain provides endless opportunities for outdoor enthusiasts to explore unspoiled wilderness areas that remain relatively unknown to mass tourism.
Conero Regional Park: A Hiker’s Paradise
Monte Conero rises dramatically from the Adriatic Sea, creating one of Italy’s most stunning coastal landscapes. I’ve spent countless hours exploring the network of trails that wind through this magnificent regional park. The contrast between the turquoise waters and white limestone cliffs is simply breathtaking.
The park covers about 6,000 hectares with several well-marked trails suitable for different fitness levels. My favorite route takes you through Mediterranean scrubland to the stunning beaches of Portonovo Bay, considered one of Italy’s most beautiful coastal areas.
Wildlife enthusiasts will appreciate spotting peregrine falcons and various bird species that call this area home. The towns of Sirolo and Numana make perfect bases for exploring the park, with their charming historic centers and excellent seafood restaurants.
The Sibillini Mountains and National Park
The Sibillini Mountains form part of the central Apennines and offer some of Le Marche’s most dramatic alpine scenery. This national park spans over 70,000 hectares of pristine mountain wilderness with peaks reaching nearly 2,500 meters.
During spring and summer, I love hiking through meadows carpeted with wildflowers—truly a photographer’s dream. The park is home to rare wildlife including wolves, golden eagles, and deer that roam freely through beech forests and high pastures.
Some must-visit spots include:
- Lake Fiastra’s crystal-clear waters
- The Piano Grande plateau with its famous summer flower blooming
- Monte Vettore, the highest peak in the range
Local mountain guides can help navigate the more challenging routes, which I highly recommend for safety and for discovering hidden gems.
Gola dell’Infernaccio: A Natural Escape
The “Gorge of Hell” might sound intimidating, but I’ve found this limestone canyon to be one of the most peaceful places in all of Le Marche. Located within the Sibillini National Park, this deep gorge carved by the Tenna River offers a refreshing escape during hot summer months.
The trail begins at an ancient abandoned mill and follows crystal-clear waters through towering rock walls. The most rewarding part is reaching the Hermitage of San Leonardo, a small church built by a Capuchin monk in a clearing surrounded by beech trees.
I recommend wearing sturdy shoes as some parts of the path can be slippery. The complete hike takes about 3-4 hours round trip, but even a short distance into the gorge rewards you with magnificent views and the soothing sounds of rushing water.
Beaches and Coastal Treasures of Ancona
Ancona’s coastline offers some of Italy’s most stunning beach experiences along the Adriatic Sea. The Conero Riviera, with its dramatic white cliffs and crystal-clear waters, creates a paradise for beach lovers seeking both relaxation and natural beauty.
The Gem of Portonovo
I discovered Portonovo Bay on my first trip to Ancona, and it immediately became my favorite spot in the region. This small cove sits at the foot of Mount Conero, creating a stunning backdrop of white limestone cliffs against turquoise waters.
What makes Portonovo special is its mix of small pebble beaches and hidden coves that never feel overcrowded. The water here is incredibly clear, perfect for snorkeling to spot colorful fish darting between rocks.
Don’t miss the 11th-century Church of Santa Maria and the Napoleonic Fort while you’re here. I recommend arriving early in the morning to secure a good spot and bringing water shoes for the pebbles. The local seafood restaurants right on the beach serve the freshest catch – try the mussels cooked in white wine!
Sirolo and Numana: Beach Lovers’ Delight
Just a short drive from Ancona, Sirolo and Numana offer what I consider the most beautiful beaches in Le Marche. Sirolo’s coastline features dramatic cliffs and the stunning Spiaggia delle Due Sorelle (Two Sisters Beach), named for twin rock formations rising from the sea.
This area gets busy in summer, but the views make it worthwhile. I suggest taking one of the boat tours from Numana port to reach the more secluded coves not accessible by car.
Numana offers two distinct areas: Numana Alta (Upper Numana) with its charming historic center, and Numana Bassa (Lower Numana) with its long sandy beach. The beach at Numana Bassa is more family-friendly with gentle slopes into the water.
Both towns have excellent facilities including beach clubs where you can rent umbrellas and loungers. For the best coastal views, walk the cliff path connecting these two charming towns at sunset.
Culinary Journey Through Ancona
Ancona’s food scene perfectly captures Le Marche’s culinary identity – simple ingredients transformed into extraordinary dishes. The coastal location provides abundant seafood while the inland areas offer rich wines and farm-fresh produce.
Local Flavors: Brodetto & Rosso Conero
Walking through Ancona’s markets, I’m always struck by the incredible seafood on display. The crown jewel of local cuisine is brodetto, a rich fish stew that varies slightly from one family to another.
Traditional Ancona brodetto contains 13 types of fish and shellfish – a nod to the 13 guests at the Last Supper. It’s slowly simmered with tomatoes, onions, and saffron, creating a hearty meal that fishermen once prepared aboard their boats.
Another local specialty worth trying is olive all’ascolana – large green olives stuffed with meat, breaded and fried to golden perfection. I recommend pairing these with a glass of Rosso Conero, a robust red wine produced from vineyards on the slopes of Monte Conero.
Wine Routes: Verdicchio and Beyond
The wine routes surrounding Ancona offer a delightful day trip for food lovers. Verdicchio is the star white wine of the region – crisp, dry, and perfect with the local seafood dishes.
Image Source: Wikimedia Commons
I spent a memorable afternoon visiting small family wineries in the Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi DOC zone, just west of Ancona. Many offer tours and tastings where you can sample wines directly from the barrel.
Beyond Verdicchio, don’t miss trying Lacrima di Morro d’Alba, a fragrant red with distinctive floral notes. Many vineyards welcome visitors for tastings paired with local cheeses and cured meats.
Wine Tasting Tips:
- Book ahead for small wineries
- Try Verdicchio both young and aged
- Visit during September harvest for the full experience
Accommodations: From Budget to Luxury
Ancona offers a surprising variety of places to stay that won’t break your travel budget. I’ve discovered everything from cozy B&Bs to upscale hotels during my visits to this charming Italian port city.
For budget travelers, Ancona Hostel provides affordable rooms with both private and shared options. I found it to be a perfect base for exploring the city. The facilities are clean, and the friendly staff helped me navigate the local attractions.
Mid-range options include several B&Bs that captured my heart. Residenza Montebello, Carpe Diem Ancona, and D’AGO48 consistently earn great reviews from travelers. These charming spots often include breakfast featuring local specialties that gave me a real taste of Le Marche.
Luxury Options in Ancona:
- Waterfront hotels with Mediterranean views
- Historic properties in the city center
- Boutique accommodations with personalized service
Many hotels offer rates starting from just $62-67 per night, with fully refundable options available through sites like Expedia and Tripadvisor.
When I visited with family, I discovered several luxury family hotels in the Province of Ancona that catered beautifully to travelers with children. These properties provided everything we needed for a comfortable stay.
To find the best deals, I recommend booking at least 2-3 months ahead. This is especially important if you’re visiting during summer when this gateway to Le Marche becomes particularly popular.
