Walking through the stone streets of Assisi, I felt a connection to history that transcended the centuries. This medieval town, nestled on the slopes of Monte Subasio in Italy, isn’t just a beautiful destination—it’s the birthplace of one of Christianity’s most beloved saints. St. Francis of Assisi’s presence is felt everywhere in this charming hillside town.
From the magnificent basilica housing his tomb to the simple chapels where he prayed, St. Francis’s influence is everywhere in Assisi.
My pilgrimage to Assisi began as a tourist adventure but quickly became a soul-stirring journey. The Way of Saint Francis, a 550-kilometer route through the Apennine Mountains, draws travelers from around the world seeking both natural beauty and spiritual reflection. I was struck by how Francis’s story resonates even today—a nobleman who gave up worldly riches after hearing a divine call to “rebuild my church.”
The town itself feels frozen in time, with its pink stone buildings and panoramic views of the Umbrian countryside. What makes Assisi truly special isn’t just its architecture or history, but the spirit of simplicity and peace that Francis championed.
For anyone interested in spirituality, history, or just beautiful Italian towns, Assisi offers something truly meaningful beyond the typical tourist experience.
Embracing the Spirit of St. Francis
Walking through Assisi’s narrow streets, I felt the profound simplicity that defined St. Francis’s life. His teachings of humility, care for nature, and rejection of material wealth still resonate throughout this hillside town.
Discovering the Humble Beginnings
St. Francis was born Giovanni di Pietro di Bernardone around 1182 into a wealthy merchant family. I visited his childhood home, now the Chiesa Nuova, where the stark contrast between his privileged upbringing and chosen path of poverty became clear.
Before his spiritual conversion, Francis lived as a carefree young man who enjoyed parties and socializing with friends. Standing in the small stone room where he supposedly was imprisoned by his father, I imagined his internal struggle.
The pivotal moment came when Francis publicly renounced his inheritance. I traced his footsteps to the town square where, tradition says, he stripped off his fine clothes and returned them to his father, choosing to serve God instead.
Lessons in Humility and Poverty
St. Francis embraced radical poverty as a spiritual practice. At San Damiano, the small church he rebuilt with his own hands, I sat quietly contemplating his vision.
“Live simply so others may simply live” seemed to echo from the ancient walls. Francis’s rejection of material possessions wasn’t just personal piety but a powerful message against the wealth-obsessed culture of his time.
I noticed how many visitors were visibly moved when our guide explained Francis’s practice of calling his body “Brother Donkey” – a humble acceptance of his physical existence without giving it undue importance.
His approach to death was equally profound. Francis called it “Sister Death,” embracing suffering as part of life’s journey rather than something to fear.
The Influence of Franciscan Values
Today, Franciscan values impact millions worldwide. Walking through the Basilica of St. Francis, I watched visitors from various faiths admiring not just the architecture but contemplating the saint’s message.
The Franciscan order he founded continues his work through:
- Environmental stewardship – Francis is the patron saint of ecology
- Service to the poor – Franciscans run soup kitchens globally
- Interfaith dialogue – Following Francis’s example of peaceful engagement
Pope Francis chose his papal name to honor these values. In Assisi’s Hermitage (Eremo delle Carceri), I hiked through the forest where Francis prayed, feeling the connection between his love of nature and today’s environmental movement.
For those seeking to embrace Francis’s spirit, I recommend spending time in the less-visited corners of Assisi. Sit quietly in the small churches, walk mindfully through the forests, and consider what true simplicity might mean in your own life.
A Pilgrim’s Guide to Assisi
Navigating Assisi as a pilgrim connects you deeply with St. Francis’s spiritual journey through this enchanting medieval town. The cobblestone streets, sacred sites, and surrounding Umbrian countryside create an experience that touches both heart and soul.
Mapping the Cobblestone Maze
Assisi sits perched on the slopes of Mount Subasio, creating a naturally tiered layout that can be both beautiful and challenging to navigate. I found the town divided into distinct areas, with the Basilica of St. Francis anchoring the western end and the Basilica of St. Clare on the eastern side.
The compact historic center is best explored on foot. Most pilgrim sites lie within a 20-minute walk of each other, though prepare for some steep climbs!
For orientation, I recommend starting at Piazza del Comune, the town’s main square. This central hub features the stunning Temple of Minerva, a Roman temple now converted to a church.
Key Areas to Know:
- Lower Town: Location of Santa Maria degli Angeli and the Porziuncola
- Historic Center: Main pilgrim sites including basilicas
- Upper Town: Rocca Maggiore fortress with panoramic views
Iconic Landmarks of Faith
The Basilica of St. Francis stands as Assisi’s crown jewel. This two-level church houses magnificent frescoes by Giotto depicting Francis’s life. The saint’s tomb lies in the crypt below, a profound space for quiet reflection.
San Damiano holds special significance as the place where Francis heard Christ speak to him from the crucifix, calling him to “rebuild my church.” The simple chapel retains an authentic atmosphere that deeply moved me.
The Porziuncola, housed within Santa Maria degli Angeli basilica in the valley below Assisi, is perhaps the most sacred site. This tiny chapel is where Francis founded his order and received the Portiuncula Indulgence.
Don’t miss the Basilica of St. Clare, housing the famous San Damiano crucifix and Clare’s tomb. Her preserved body lies in the crypt in a glass case.
The Way of St. Francis Itinerary
The Way of St. Francis (La Via di Francesco) is a modern Italian pilgrimage route connecting significant places in the saint’s life. The full route stretches approximately 550 km from Florence to Rome, passing through Assisi.
I recommend dedicating 2-3 days to explore Assisi itself before continuing the pilgrimage. The classic route follows Francis’s footsteps through the Umbrian countryside, with stunning vistas of olive groves and rolling hills.
Suggested Itinerary:
- Florence to Assisi (northern section): 8 days
- Assisi exploration: 2-3 days
- Assisi to Rome (southern section): 9 days
Many pilgrims choose to walk only segments, with the Assisi-to-Rome portion being most popular. Accommodations range from pilgrim hostels to monasteries offering simple rooms at modest prices.
The best seasons for this journey are spring (April-June) and fall (September-October) when temperatures are moderate and the countryside bursts with color.
Artistic Footprints in the Land of St. Francis
The artistic legacy of St. Francis permeates the hillside town of Assisi, where spiritual devotion and creative genius combined to produce some of Italy’s most moving medieval art.
Marveling at Medieval Frescoes
Walking into the Basilica of St. Francis took my breath away. The walls come alive with vibrant scenes depicting the saint’s remarkable life. These frescoes aren’t just beautiful—they’re medieval storytelling at its finest.
I spent hours examining the details of Francis receiving the stigmata, where artists captured both physical pain and spiritual ecstasy in his expression. The colors remain surprisingly vivid after centuries.
Local guides pointed out how these artworks served as “books for the illiterate,” teaching ordinary people about Francis’s devotion to nature, poverty, and compassion.
What struck me most was how the frescoes change throughout the day as sunlight moves across them, creating an almost living connection to artists who worked here nearly 800 years ago.
The Legacy of Giotto and Cimabue
The artistic revolution led by Giotto and Cimabue transformed not just Assisi but Western art itself. Standing before Giotto’s frescoes, I could see why art historians consider him the father of Renaissance painting.
His scenes of St. Francis show remarkable emotional depth and three-dimensional quality that broke from flat Byzantine traditions. Figures seem to breathe and move within the space.
Cimabue’s contributions shouldn’t be overlooked either. His Crucifixion shows early signs of the naturalism that his student Giotto would later perfect.
The collaboration between these masters created a visual biography of Francis that still speaks to visitors today. Their technical innovations—perspective, naturalistic figures, and emotional expression—began here in this sacred space dedicated to a humble saint.
Encountering the Franciscan Community
My time in Assisi revealed how St. Francis’s legacy continues through the vibrant community that bears his name. The modern Franciscans welcomed me with the same warmth and hospitality their founder valued centuries ago.
Living the Franciscan Order Today
The Franciscan community in Assisi embodies simplicity and service in our complex world. During my visit, I observed members of all three Franciscan orders—friars, Poor Clares, and lay members of the Third Order that Francis created for everyday people.
“We follow Francis by living simply and serving others,” explained Brother Marco, who guided me through the Umbrian town’s narrow streets.
What struck me most was how these modern followers balance ancient traditions with contemporary challenges. Many work with refugees, environmental causes, and poverty relief—Francis’s care for creation and the marginalized reimagined for today.
I joined a small group for evening prayers in a chapel near the Basilica of St. Clare. Their genuine community spirit was immediately apparent.
Spiritual Dialogues with the Friars
My conversations with the friars provided unexpected depth to my journey. Father Giovanni, who had served the order for thirty years, invited me to join him for coffee in a small courtyard.
“Francis believed in direct experience of faith, not just theology,” he shared as we watched pilgrims pass by. “He wanted people to encounter God in nature, in poverty, in service.”
We discussed how St. Clare, Francis’s female counterpart, created spaces for women’s spiritual expression that were revolutionary for their time.
The friars organized daily talks for visitors where they answered questions about Franciscan spirituality. These weren’t abstract lessons but practical discussions about applying Francis’s values to everyday life challenges.
What I valued most was their authenticity. They spoke openly about their struggles to live simply in a consumer world, making Francis’s 800-year-old wisdom feel surprisingly relevant.
Nature and Spirituality: Following the Tau Cross
Walking through the Umbrian countryside, I often find myself tracing the path of the Tau Cross symbols that mark the Way of St. Francis. This T-shaped sign has deep meaning for Franciscan followers worldwide.
The Tau is the last letter of the Hebrew alphabet. St. Francis embraced it as his personal seal. He used it to bless people and signed his letters with this powerful symbol of salvation and peace.
In Assisi, these crosses appear everywhere. They are carved into stone walls, hanging in doorways, and marking the pilgrim path through rolling hills and olive groves. They serve as silent guides through the landscape Francis called home.
What strikes me most is how Francis saw divinity in nature. His famous “Canticle of the Creatures” praises Sister Mother Earth, who “sustains and governs us.” This connection between spirituality and the natural world feels especially potent here.
Following these Tau markers through meadows bright with wildflowers, I understand why Francis developed such reverence for creation. The Italian countryside unfolds like a living prayer.
Many pilgrims wear the Tau cross as they walk this route, a physical reminder of their spiritual journey. I’ve noticed locals touching them with reverence when passing through town squares.
The path isn’t just about reaching destinations. It’s about moving through nature with awareness, noticing small wonders along the way.
