La Palma sits quietly in the far northwest of the Canary Islands. People call it “La Isla Bonita” (the beautiful island) and sometimes just “the green island.”
While most tourists crowd into Tenerife and Gran Canaria, La Palma stays mostly under the radar. This volcanic paradise offers some of Europe’s best hiking, with more than 1,000 kilometers of trails crossing wild volcanic landscapes, ancient forests, and crazy-steep coastal paths.
But there’s more to La Palma than just hiking. Its location and wild terrain create perfect conditions for stargazing. Black sand beaches stretch along the coast, and little villages keep Canarian traditions alive.
I’ve explored a lot of hiking destinations, and honestly, La Palma stands out for its raw beauty and peaceful vibe. The island combines tough mountain trails with gentle coastal walks.
From ancient laurel forests to volcanic craters, every hike reveals something new about this lush Atlantic gem.
La Palma: The Green Gem of the Canary Islands
La Palma might be the most northwestern island in the Canary archipelago, and it totally earns its nickname, “La Isla Bonita.” Its volcanic landscapes and year-round subtropical climate make hiking here a dream.
Location and Geography
La Palma sits off the coast of northern Africa in the Atlantic, far from the Spanish mainland but still part of Spain.
It’s the fifth largest Canary Island, covering about 280 square miles. The island stretches roughly 28 miles long and 14 miles wide at its widest point.
Key Geographic Features:
- Volcanic in origin, with ongoing geological activity
- Steep terrain and wild elevation shifts
- Caldera de Taburiente dominating the north
- Black sand beaches wrapping the coastline
- Dense laurel forests blanketing much of the interior
La Palma feels isolated, especially when you look west and realize there’s nothing but open Atlantic for thousands of miles.
La Isla Bonita: Island Nickname and Identity
People—locals and visitors alike—call La Palma “La Isla Bonita,” which means “The Beautiful Island.” The nickname fits.
La Palma looks nothing like its drier neighbors, Lanzarote or Fuerteventura. Lush forests cover the mountains, and black volcanic rock forms a wild contrast.
What Makes It “Bonita”:
- The greenest of the Canary Islands
- Dramatic volcanic peaks and craters
- Pristine laurel cloud forests
- Unspoiled natural beauty
- Fewer crowds than the big tourist islands
Because fewer tourists come here than to Gran Canaria or Tenerife, La Palma keeps its authentic character. The island’s natural beauty remains intact, and the vibe feels more genuine.
Climate and Weather Patterns
La Palma enjoys a subtropical climate with mild temperatures all year. It’s perfect for outdoor adventures.
Temperature Ranges:
- Winter: 60-70°F (15-21°C)
- Summer: 70-80°F (21-27°C)
- In the mountains: 10-15°F cooler
The trade winds bring moisture and keep the island green. These winds hit the north slopes, forming clouds that water the laurel forests.
Rainfall varies a lot depending on where you are. The north and central mountains get much more rain than the southern coast, so you’ll notice totally different microclimates as you explore.
Dramatic Volcanic Landscapes and Beaches
La Palma’s volcanic nature shapes some of the most stunning landscapes I’ve ever seen. The island’s active volcanic past carved out deep calderas and sharp ridges, and it gave us those unique black sand beaches you won’t find everywhere.
Volcanoes of La Palma
La Palma sits right on one of the Canary Islands’ most active volcanic systems. Millions of years of volcanic activity shaped the steep terrain that I love to hike.
Caldera de Taburiente dominates the north. This enormous volcanic crater stretches about 6 miles across and plunges over 4,900 feet deep. Hiking the rim, I always find the views into that green-filled caldera absolutely breathtaking.
The Cumbre Vieja volcanic ridge runs down the island’s southern spine. This active zone is full of cinder cones and craters, and I spot evidence of eruptions everywhere along the trails.
Roque de los Muchachos rises to 7,503 feet, the island’s highest point. Up here, volcanic peaks create perfect conditions for the famous observatory.
The volcanic landscape changes constantly as I walk. One minute I’m in pine forests on old lava slopes, and a few miles later, I’m crossing barren lava fields.
Volcanic Black Sand Beaches
La Palma’s volcanic origins mean black sand beaches, which I honestly find way more interesting than your standard white sand.
Puerto Naos Beach is probably the best example. The black sand gets toasty under the sun, and palm trees line the shore, creating a tropical vibe against the dark backdrop.
At Charco Verde, the black sand meets natural rock pools. I love swimming here—the volcanic rocks shield the water from rough ocean waves.
Playa de Los Cancajos sits near the airport and is easy to reach. The sand mixes with volcanic pebbles, so walking barefoot is a bit of a sensory adventure.
These beaches stay warmer than white sand ones because the dark sand soaks up more sun. It’s a small detail, but I always notice it.
Impact of the 2021 Eruption
The Cumbre Vieja eruption in late 2021 really changed parts of La Palma. I watched as volcanic activity reshaped the island in real time.
Lava poured into the ocean, adding about 120 new acres to the west coast. The eruption destroyed more than 1,600 buildings and buried banana plantations under thick rock.
La Bombita and the surrounding area now lie under hardened lava. Trails here are still closed, and new ones are being planned around the fresh landscape.
The eruption also hit Puerto Naos and nearby coastal spots. Residents had to evacuate, and some beaches are still off-limits because of lava and lingering gases.
Locals continue to adapt as the landscape evolves. I’m excited to see what new hiking routes will open up as the lava fields settle and become safe.
Hiking Paradise: The Island’s Best Trails
La Palma offers over 1,000 kilometers of marked hiking trails. These trails wind through volcanic craters, thick laurel forests, and terraced banana plantations.
The terrain is wildly diverse. You’ll find everything from mellow coastal walks to tough ridge hikes climbing above 2,400 meters.
Top Hiking Routes and Viewpoints
The Caldera de Taburiente is the crown jewel for hikers. This giant volcanic crater stretches 13 kilometers and hides natural pools, waterfalls, and wild ravines.
I always suggest starting at Mirador de los Brecitos. The trail descends through ancient forests to campgrounds where fresh stream water runs all year.
The Marcos y Cordero trail feels like a real adventure. You’ll walk through tunnels and rainforests on a 7-kilometer loop that takes about 3 hours—great for families, too.
Bring a flashlight for the tunnels. The path leads to natural springs, and if you’re up for more, you can keep going to Los Tilos waterfall for a longer hike.
Roque de los Muchachos offers the highest viewpoint at 2,426 meters. The ridge walk lets you see across different climate zones and, on a clear day, even spot neighboring islands.
Diverse Terrain: Forests, Ridges, and Ravines
La Palma’s volcanic landscape creates totally different hiking zones. In Cubo de la Galga, giant ferns and laurel trees make it feel like a fairytale forest.
There are two circular trails here, 4 and 9 kilometers long. Inside the forest, temperatures drop, so I usually bring a light jacket.
The Fuencaliente volcanic route takes you through black lava fields and past volcanic cones. This 6-kilometer downhill trail connects San Antonio volcano to the salt flats by the sea.
Buracas in the northwest shows off the highest concentration of dragon trees in the Canaries. A 4.2-kilometer trail reveals cave houses that people still live in, plus ancient petroglyphs from the island’s first inhabitants.
Ridge walks along the Cumbre Vieja volcanic spine offer wild elevation changes and sweeping Atlantic views.
Walking Past Banana Plantations
Banana plantations cover the lower slopes in neat terraces. Many trails lead right through these green rows, giving you a close-up look at how bananas grow here.
Coastal paths between Tazacorte and Puerto Naos pass through big banana farms. These flat, easy walks show off the plastic sheeting and irrigation systems farmers use to protect crops from the wind.
I often spot workers tending the plants early in the morning. The plantations create their own little microclimates, attracting birds and native plants along the edges.
Some trails climb from the plantations up into volcanic zones above. The elevation changes are dramatic, and you really feel it in your legs.
Tips for Hikers and Outdoor Enthusiasts
Bring sturdy hiking boots for the volcanic terrain and a flashlight for any tunnel routes. Weather changes fast with elevation, so I always wear layers.
Start early to beat the afternoon heat and make sure taxis are available for remote trailheads. Some routes, like Marcos y Cordero, require a 4×4 or pre-arranged transport.
Water and snacks are essential, especially on longer trails. Cell service can be spotty, so I carry extra supplies and a basic first-aid kit.
If you’re camping overnight in Caldera de Taburiente, you’ll need a permit. Book ahead, especially in the busy season.
Trail conditions shift with the seasons. Winter brings more water to the waterfalls but can also mean muddy paths in the forests.
Starry Skies and Natural Wonders
La Palma is one of the world’s best places for stargazing, thanks to its protected dark skies. Its UNESCO Biosphere Reserve status safeguards unique ecosystems found nowhere else.
The island’s steep volcanic terrain creates distinct climate zones that support rare species.
World-Renowned Stargazing
La Palma has some of the clearest night skies I’ve ever seen. Its Atlantic location, far from city lights, makes it a dream for astronomy lovers.
Key stargazing features:
- Roque de los Muchachos Observatory at 2,396 meters
- Strict lighting laws protect dark sky zones
- The Milky Way is visible all year
- Guided stargazing tours available
I’ve spent many nights on the windy mountainsides just watching the stars. The observatory up top houses some of the world’s best telescopes. Local tour companies, like Ad Astra La Palma, offer guided experiences with pro-level gear.
The best spots are above 1,500 meters. The way the stars pop against the dark Atlantic below is just unforgettable.
Notable Biosphere Reserves
La Palma became a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve in 2002, protecting 708 square kilometers of rare ecosystems. Nearly the whole island falls under this designation.
The reserve includes:
- Core areas: Caldera de Taburiente National Park and protected forests
- Buffer zones: Traditional farming areas and pine woods
- Transition areas: Populated coastal regions
The laurel forests (laurisilva) are some of Europe’s last surviving subtropical cloud forests. These ancient woods date back millions of years. I’ve hiked through these misty forests, where huge trees form a green cathedral overhead.
The volcanic landscape shifts fast with elevation. From banana plantations by the coast to pine forests up high, the variety always surprises me when I hit a new trail.
Unique Flora and Fauna
La Palma sits out in the Atlantic, far from the mainland. That isolation? It’s given nature plenty of room to experiment. I’ve always marveled at how the island ended up with so many plants and animals you just won’t find anywhere else.
Notable endemic species:
- La Palma giant lizard (Gallotia auaritae)
- Canarian pine (Pinus canariensis)
- La Palma violet (Viola palmensis)
- A surprising array of local insects and spiders
The Canarian pines, honestly, have my heart. These trees have a wild resilience—you can watch them bounce back after volcanic eruptions or fires, sending new shoots straight out of blackened trunks. I’ve walked through charred forests, only to return a few years later and find green everywhere.
La Palma’s steep slopes carve the island into a patchwork of microclimates. Down by the coast, you’ll spot chunky succulents clinging to dry ground. Up north, the air turns damp and cool, and ferns crowd together under the trees.
If you love birds, bring your binoculars. The ancient laurel forests shelter rare species like Bolle’s pigeon and the laurel pigeon. I’ve spent hours just listening to their calls echo through the mist.
Culture, Traditions, and Local Life
La Palma’s cultural heritage feels like a living mosaic. You see traces of the indigenous Benahorita traditions, Spanish colonial flair, and craftspeople who still work the way their great-grandparents did. The island throws some of the Canary Islands’ wildest festivals and keeps old skills—like silk-making and cigar rolling—alive.
Traditional Festivals and Celebrations
Let’s talk about Los Indianos. It’s hands-down the quirkiest party I’ve ever joined. Every Carnival Monday, Santa Cruz de La Palma turns into a sea of white outfits and clouds of talcum powder. Cuban music spills from every corner, and people just let loose.
This festival honors the islanders who once left for Cuba and Latin America, searching for new lives and fortunes. Their stories come alive in the streets, even if you can’t help but laugh at the powdery chaos.
Every five years in July, the Descent of the Virgin de las Nieves takes over the island. I got swept up in the buzz of Semana Chica and Semana Grande. The Dance of the Dwarfs? It’s surreal—tiny costumed figures weaving through Santa Cruz all night long.
The next big one lands in 2025. The religious processions and celebrations keep rolling through August, finally wrapping up with the Virgin’s Ascent on August 5th.
La Palma’s got a knack for unique celebrations. The Caballos Fufos horse parade and Cruces de Mayo both fill the streets with music, costumes, and food that everyone seems to share.
La Palma Craftsmanship and Markets
Here’s something I didn’t expect: La Palma’s artisans really know their stuff. You’ll find silk, pottery, baskets, and embroidery in the markets, all made using age-old techniques.
The Workshop of Las Hilanderas de El Paso lets you peek into the world of traditional silk-making. Even big-name designers rave about the quality. Watching the spinners at work, I realized just how much patience and skill goes into every strand.
And then there are the cigars. La Palma cigars have earned a name for themselves, even outside Spain. I toured the La Palma Cigar Museum and poked around a few tobacco shops—honestly, the craftsmanship is impressive.
Markets brim with handmade treasures:
- Silk and cotton from local sources
- Wood and volcanic stone carved into art
- Ceramics shaped by hand
- Brass and leather goods with that unmistakable handmade touch
If you’re hunting for souvenirs, these pieces feel truly special. You can tell the difference—local materials, traditional methods, and a bit of island soul in every item.
Colonial Architecture and Heritage Sites
Walk through La Palma’s old towns, and you’ll spot Spanish colonial architecture at every turn. Santa Cruz de La Palma shines brightest, with its wooden balconies, cool courtyards, and those intricate artesonados (fancy wooden ceilings).
Notable architectural sites include:
- Casa Salazar, a grand mansion that screams old-school Canarian style
- Royal Sanctuary of Nuestra Señora de las Nieves
- Church of El Salvador
- Castle of Santa Catalina
Religious buildings pop up across the island. The Church of Nuestra Señora de Candelaria in Tijarafe stands out for its classic colonial look. Other churches in Barlovento and Garafía echo the same Spanish roots.
One more thing—Flemish art gives La Palma’s churches an unexpected twist. When the island joined the Crown of Castile, settlers brought these masterpieces along. I stumbled on some gorgeous works in the Churches of San Francisco and Santo Domingo in the capital. It’s like finding a bit of Belgium tucked away in the Canaries.
Influences from Tenerife and Neighboring Islands
La Palma blends its own identity with the wider culture of the Canary Islands. I notice Tenerife’s mark in the way we celebrate carnival and throw religious festivals—there’s a certain shared energy, but La Palma always adds its own twist.
The Benahorita people first called La Palma home. Their traditions still echo here, and you can spot those connections with other indigenous groups across the islands. If you’re curious, the Benahorita Archaeological Museum lets you get up close to artifacts and stories from their world.
When I hop between La Palma and Tenerife, I can’t help but spot the architectural similarities. Both islands show off these gorgeous wooden balconies and use colonial building tricks that have stood the test of time.
Traditional music and dance pop up everywhere in the Canaries, but La Palma’s got its own flavor. Over time, local musicians and dancers have put their own spin on things, shaping styles that feel both familiar and totally unique to this island.
These days, the cultural exchange feels alive and well. Artists and craftspeople travel back and forth, swapping ideas and techniques, but they never lose that sense of what makes each island special.
