In the rolling hills of Molise, Italy, I stumbled onto one of the most fascinating ancient traditions still alive today: transhumance. This seasonal migration of livestock along grassy paths called “tratturi” stretches back to Roman times, shaping the cultural landscape of this lesser-known Italian region.
Shepherds move their herds between lowland and mountain pastures as the seasons change, following natural paths that people have used for centuries.
When I walked these ancient shepherd tracks, I followed in the footsteps of Valerio Berardo, a young shepherd who carries on this tradition with his goats during a three-day trek across the Molisean countryside.
The experience connected me to a way of life that feels both timeless and, honestly, a bit endangered in our modern world. These green paths crisscross the region, offering not only historical weight but also some truly breathtaking scenery.
Molise’s transhumance culture stands out, especially since UNESCO recognized it as world heritage. This highlights how important it is to preserve such agricultural practices.
Besides their cultural value, these tratturi make perfect hiking routes for travelers looking for something genuine, far from Italy’s usual tourist crowds.
The archaeological area of Sepino shows how deeply this tradition runs through the region’s identity.
The Essence of Transhumance in Molise
Transhumance in Molise stands as one of Italy’s most authentic cultural traditions. Shepherds and animals journey between seasonal pastures along ancient paths connecting mountains and valleys.
Origins of the Pastoral Tradition
Transhumance in Molise started before Roman times. I’ve learned that these seasonal migrations became more organized in the Medieval period, especially when the Kingdom of Naples set up the “Dogana della Mena delle Pecore” (Customs of Sheep Movement) back in 1447.
The economic value of wool and cheese production turned these migrations into a way of life.
When I walk these old paths today, I can almost feel the centuries of pastoral culture under my feet.
Families passed down herding knowledge, generation after generation, creating a real bond between people and the land. This connection was more than just practical—there was something spiritual about it, with rituals and celebrations marking the big migration dates.
Shepherds and Herders: Keepers of Ancient Routes
Shepherds like Valerio Berardo keep this tradition alive in Molise. His three-day journey with goats shows the grit it takes to hold onto these ways in modern times.
The “tratturi,” or ancient paths, they follow are pretty impressive feats of local engineering. These grassy highways can be anywhere from 55 to 111 meters wide and stretch for hundreds of kilometers.
I’ve seen shepherds read the land like it’s second nature—finding water, predicting weather, and picking the best grazing spots. Their know-how isn’t written down; it lives in their actions and stories.
Groups like “Le Vie dei Tratturi” now support shepherds, recognizing them as cultural guardians rather than just workers.
Seasonal Migration Patterns
Transhumance follows the rhythm of nature. I’ve noticed that spring migrations usually start in late May, with herds leaving the coastal lowlands for the mountain pastures, where fresh grass and herbs grow.
The return journey in autumn typically begins in October, before snow makes the mountain passes impassable.
Shepherds time these moves to make the most of natural resources and give pastures a chance to recover.
Weather, plant cycles, and breeding seasons all play a part in when migrations happen. Shepherds tweak their routes every year, showing a pretty impressive understanding of the environment.
UNESCO recognized transhumance as Intangible Cultural Heritage in 2019. These routes aren’t just paths—they’re living links between communities, cultures, and ecosystems that have kept Molise going for centuries.
The Tratturi: Pathways Across Italy
The tratturi of Italy make up one of Europe’s oldest road networks, weaving a web of grassy pathways across the countryside. These ancient trails have shaped the culture and economy of places like Molise for ages.
Mapping the Ancient Trails
The tratturi form a vast network of grass paths that shepherds and their flocks once used as highways. In Molise alone, these trails run for over 80 kilometers, linking mountain villages to lowland pastures.
I’ve walked parts of these paths, which are usually 111 meters wide—wide enough for thousands of animals to pass together.
These routes started before Roman times and became official under the Kingdom of Naples. The main network includes five royal tratturi that cross Molise, with the Celano-Foggia tratturo as the longest and most important.
On my hikes, I’ve come across stone markers that still show the way, though sadly, modern development has shrunk many sections.
Tratturo Culture and Significance
Walking these old highways, I’ve come to realize just how deeply the tratturi are tied to local identity. These weren’t just migration routes—they were channels for culture, where songs, recipes, and traditions traveled with the shepherds.
The seasonal movement is called “transhumance.” UNESCO recognizes it as intangible cultural heritage.
Every autumn, shepherds left mountain towns near Campobasso for warmer grazing lands, returning in spring when the snow melted.
Villages like Gambatesa still hold festivals to celebrate this pastoral heritage. Local museums show off tools, clothing, and photos that tell the story of shepherd life.
The tratturi economy shaped everything—from food preservation to wedding customs that followed the shepherds’ calendar.
Famous Routes: Molise to Puglia and Beyond
The Celano-Foggia route stands out as the most famous tratturo. I followed it from the mountains of Abruzzo through Molise and into Puglia’s plains.
This epic path crosses 16 villages, each with its own culture and story.
Another key route is the Pescasseroli-Candela tratturo, winding through some of Molise’s most stunning landscapes. Along the way, I found old taverns where shepherds once rested.
The L’Aquila-Foggia tratturo passes near Campobasso, Molise’s capital, before heading toward Puglia’s lowlands. These routes weren’t just for sheep—they moved cheese, wool, and ideas.
Today, people are restoring many sections as hiking trails. If you visit in spring or fall, you’ll get mild weather and a real sense of the old migrations that once filled these green corridors.
Sheep, Livestock, and the Shepherd’s Companions
In Molise’s transhumance traditions, animals and their caretakers built bonds that were vital for survival along these ancient routes. The relationship between shepherds, livestock, and their loyal dogs forms a complex social world.
The Role of Sheep and Cattle
As I walked the transhumance paths of Molise, I watched flocks of sheep—mostly the white Gentile di Puglia breed—dot the fields. These sheep are prized for their fine wool and can cover up to 20 kilometers a day during migrations.
Cattle also joined the journey, though in smaller numbers. The Podolica breed, with its grayish coat and big horns, handles the Matese Mountains terrain like pros.
Most shepherds managed between 100 and 300 sheep. These animals weren’t just livestock—they represented a family’s entire fortune and future.
During my farm visits, I saw shepherds recognize individual animals by their walk, a spot on their wool, or just a certain look.
Faithful Dogs on the Trails
No shepherd hit the road without their Maremmano-Abruzzese sheepdogs. These big, white guardians—sometimes weighing up to 45 kilograms—protected flocks from wolves and bears that once roamed Molise’s mountains.
These dogs weren’t pets in the usual sense. They lived with the sheep, developing fierce loyalty and protective instincts.
Each journey typically included two to four dogs per flock. The older dogs taught the younger ones how to guide and guard the sheep across tough terrain.
An elderly shepherd once told me his dogs were “more reliable than any human.” They worked through all weather, slept with the flock, and could sense danger before anyone else.
Mountain Shepherds’ Daily Life
Shepherds in the Matese Mountains started their days before dawn. They milked sheep and made simple cheese using wooden tools they carried in their saddlebags.
Their gear was basic but vital: a wooden staff (mazza), a water flask, a small knife, and a bag with bread, cheese, and dried meat. Some carried small musical instruments to pass the time.
Their clothes were practical—wool vests, sturdy pants, and leather shoes tough enough for rough trails. Many wore pointed hats that kept off both sun and rain.
Shepherds knew the landscape inside out—where to find hidden water, caves for shelter, and the best grazing spots for each season. This knowledge, passed down through families, created mental maps more detailed than any guidebook.
Their days followed the animals and the sun, often covering 15 to 25 kilometers before setting up camp for the night.
Local Heritage, Families, and Folklore
In Molise, transhumance runs deep in family histories and local culture. These shepherding practices have created unique folklore and customs that still shape the region’s identity.
Valente and Direnzo Family History
The Valente and Direnzo families are two of Molise’s most respected shepherding dynasties. I visited their homestead last summer and was blown away by their family records, some going back to the 1700s.
“Our ancestors walked these same paths for generations,” Antonio Valente told me, showing off photos of his great-grandfather leading sheep along ancient tratturi.
Both families kept detailed journals about seasonal migrations, weather, and folk remedies for animals. These records have become important cultural treasures.
What struck me was how the families intermarried over centuries, pooling their knowledge and land. Today, the younger Valente and Direnzo generations work to keep these traditions alive while adapting to modern farming.
Zampognaro: The Christmas Bagpiper
When I visited Molise in December, I got to experience the magical tradition of the zampognaro—bagpipers who travel from town to town during Christmas.
These musicians play the zampogna, a unique Italian bagpipe made from sheep or goat skin.
Traditionally, the zampognari were shepherds who came down from the mountains in winter, bringing music and celebration to the villages. They wear sheepskin vests, woolen cloaks, and hats decorated with ribbons.
In 2023, UNESCO recognized this practice as Intangible Cultural Heritage, which is great for keeping the tradition alive. I watched children’s faces light up as zampognari played haunting tunes in the town squares.
Traditions Preserved through Generations
Most transhumance traditions survive through family teaching. I met Maria, who learned to make cheese from her grandmother using milk from their herds.
“Each family has their twist,” she told me, showing me how to make caciocavallo cheese. “Those small differences tell our family stories.”
Annual festivals, especially the Festa della Transumanza, bring families together to share traditional foods, crafts, and music tied to shepherding.
Local schools now teach transhumance history. I’ve seen students learning old songs, stories, and even practical skills like wool processing and natural dyeing.
People are also creating digital archives to capture oral histories from elder shepherds before these firsthand stories disappear.
Transhumance in the Modern Era and Travel Insights
Though ancient, transhumance in Molise has adapted to modern challenges. This traditional movement now offers travelers unique experiences and holds a special place in Italy’s cultural heritage.
Tourism and Responsible Exploration
Molise’s transhumance routes offer amazing experiences for travelers who want something real. These old shepherd paths, known as “tratturi,” now make for fantastic hikes through beautiful scenery.
On my last visit, local guides showed me how to explore these routes respectfully. Many farms along the way invite visitors to see cheese-making and wool processing firsthand.
If you want to see active transhumance, aim for May or September. Some shepherds still move their flocks then, and several tour operators in Campobasso and Isernia now offer “shepherd experience” packages.
For the sake of the land and the people, I suggest joining guided walks instead of going solo. It helps protect the delicate ecosystem and supports local families.
UNESCO Recognition and Cultural Revival
In 2019, UNESCO added transhumance to its list of Intangible Cultural Heritage. This sparked new interest in keeping these traditions alive across southern Italy.
I attended a festival in Frosolone celebrating the UNESCO status, and the pride in the air was contagious. Locals showcased music, food, and crafts tied to pastoral life.
The regional government has put money into restoring major tratturi. Now you’ll find new signs, rest stops, and information panels that make the paths more visitor-friendly.
Local schools teach transhumance history, and I visited a classroom where kids learned traditional songs and crafts.
Museums in Campobasso and Agnone now feature interactive exhibits about transhumance, making sure these stories live on.
Beyond Molise: Connections Across Italy
Molise’s transhumance traditions link up with similar practices throughout Italy. I’ve traced these routes into Abruzzo, Lazio, and Campania, creating a network that once covered much of the country.
In Abruzzo’s Gran Sasso National Park, I saw similar seasonal migrations still happening. The connection between these regions stays strong, with shared festivals and cultural exchanges.
Northern Italy has its twist. In Lombardy, South Tyrol, and Trentino, Alpine transhumance means moving vertically between mountain pastures, not the long treks common in the south.
These regional differences create a fascinating patchwork. If you’re traveling through Italy, I’d encourage you to check out a few regions to see the variety.
Several groups are now working to document and preserve these traditions across regional borders, building a collaborative effort to keep them alive.
Mediterranean and Southern Italian Context
Transhumance isn’t just an Italian thing—it’s all over the Mediterranean. My travels in southern Europe showed me similar traditions in Spain, Greece, and the Balkans.
In southern Italy, especially, transhumance shaped regional identities. It created economic systems, architecture, and food traditions that still define these places.
Climate plays a big role. Mild coastal winters and harsh mountain conditions made these seasonal moves necessary.
Transhumance still matters for sustainable agriculture. Many artisanal foods from southern Italy—especially cheeses like caciocavallo and pecorino—depend on traditional grazing.
If you decide to explore Molise’s transhumance routes, keep the broader Mediterranean context in mind. It adds another layer of meaning to the journey.
