Wandering through Northern Spain in spring or autumn, I kept coming back to Cangas de Onís, a lively town tucked into the hills of Asturias.
This place is the perfect base for exploring the wild beauty of the Picos de Europa mountains and the famous Covadonga Sanctuary. You get the convenience of a bigger town but still have direct access to incredible nature.
The air’s crisp, cafés are inviting, and there’s something about watching the oaks and beeches change color that just feels right.
On my last visit, mornings in Cangas de Onís started with the scent of fresh bread drifting out of the bakeries.
I loved knowing that I could hit the scenic trails, stock up on supplies, and be just minutes away from places like the Covadonga Lakes.
The cool, comfortable weather in both spring and autumn made every walk and view extra enjoyable.
Having a spot like Cangas de Onís lets me unwind after a full day outdoors.
I can grab a good meal, do laundry if needed, and plan my next mountain adventure.
For anyone wanting to explore Asturias and the Picos de Europa, honestly, I can’t picture a better home base.
Why Cangas de Onís Makes the Perfect Spring and Autumn Base
I love the vibe in Cangas de Onís during spring and autumn.
This small town in Asturias, Northern Spain, puts me right at the doorstep of the Picos de Europa mountains and the legendary Covadonga.
The atmosphere feels lively and authentic, but I never feel hurried.
Climate and Seasonal Appeal
Spring in Cangas de Onís brings green hills, wildflowers, and mild temperatures.
Cool mornings are perfect for hiking, and evenings invite you to stroll by the river or sit outside with a glass of cider.
It’s quieter than summer, so the trails and town stay relaxed.
Autumn is just as magical.
The forests turn gold and red, and every valley glows.
If you like crisp air without winter’s bite, this season is for you.
Rain falls less than in deep winter, trails stay open, and there are fewer tourists.
These seasons bring comfort, beauty, and a personal touch to my Asturias adventures.
| Season | Typical Temperatures | Key Appeal |
|---|---|---|
| Spring | 10–18°C (50–64°F) | Wildflowers, fresh greenery |
| Autumn | 10–19°C (50–66°F) | Fall colors, crisp hiking weather |
Authentic Asturian Culture
Staying in Cangas de Onís, I feel close to local life.
People gather in cafes, cider houses (sidrerías), and open-air markets.
It’s easy to try fabada asturiana, a hearty local bean stew, or sample blue cheeses from the Picos region.
You’ll find shops selling Asturian crafts and hiking gear side by side.
I see festivals and hear the Asturian language in the streets.
What really stands out is the warmth; even as a visitor, I get invited to traditional music events or end up sipping cider with locals along the Sella River.
This everyday culture gives the town a lived-in, genuine charm that bigger tourist centers just can’t match.
Proximity to Iconic Destinations
One of the best things about Cangas de Onís is how close it sits to legendary places.
The famous Sanctuary of Covadonga is just a short drive or bus trip away, with its cliffside church and holy cave.
The glacial Lakes of Covadonga are within easy reach, rewarding me with breathtaking views and herds of cows grazing by the water.
Exploring Picos de Europa National Park is simple from here.
Trailheads, visitor centers, and shuttle buses all connect right from town.
I don’t waste time in traffic or deal with long transfers.
Instead, each day is easy: breakfast in Cangas de Onís, then straight into the mountains for adventure.
The town also keeps me close to grocery stores, ATMs, and gear shops, making logistics a breeze.
Being based here lets me cover more ground, from rugged peaks to rural valleys, all in one trip.
Exploring Covadonga: History, Culture, and Natural Splendor
Covadonga in Asturias pulled me in with its dramatic landscapes, spiritual sites, and a calm that’s hard to describe.
From the sacred sanctuary set in a mountainside to the mirror-like lakes and cozy village squares, each part offers something special.
The Sanctuary and Its Legends
Walking up to the Sanctuary of Covadonga, I felt the mix of history and nature immediately.
The basilica’s pink limestone glows against green cliffs, and the air turns hushed even with visitors around.
This site is loaded with legends.
The most famous tells how Don Pelayo led a small group of Asturians to victory against the Moors in 722 AD, starting the Christian reconquest of Spain.
The Holy Cave, or Santa Cueva, holds a statue of the Virgen de Covadonga, who is deeply respected in Asturias.
Locals often talk about miracles linked to her.
Below the cave, I found a small waterfall and an ancient chapel tucked inside the rocks.
I made sure to visit both.
Early mornings or evenings feel the most peaceful, with fewer crowds and golden light across the valley.
Visiting Covadonga Lakes
I’d heard about Lagos de Covadonga before arriving, but seeing them in person blew me away.
These glacial lakes—Enol and Ercina—sit inside the Picos de Europa National Park, about 20 km from Cangas de Onís.
Getting there means a scenic drive or shuttle bus up winding mountain roads.
I recommend arriving early in spring or autumn to beat the midday rush and catch the clearest views.
The trails around the lakes are well-marked, and some lead to quiet spots perfect for a picnic.
The lakes are stunning, especially with cows grazing and wildflowers everywhere.
Weather can flip quickly here, so I always pack a jacket, water, and snacks.
Photographers will love the changing light, and bird watchers might spot eagles or vultures circling overhead.
Covadonga Village Highlights
Covadonga village surprised me with its local character and laid-back pace.
I wandered past cozy cafés and souvenir shops selling Asturian cider and cheeses.
Most visitors stop to admire the small church, fountain, and leafy plazas dotted with benches.
I paused at a few bakeries where locals nudged me to try carbayón—a traditional Asturian pastry.
The village is also a good spot to learn about the region’s Celtic roots through museums and stone markers.
Friendly residents shared stories of old customs and pilgrimage routes winding through the area.
Essentials in the village:
- Restaurants serving hearty local fare (fabada, grilled meats)
- Small markets for snacks and picnic supplies
- Walking paths connecting key historic and scenic spots
Covadonga’s village feels safe, relaxed, and welcoming—a great place to rest after a day in the mountains.
Image Source: Tripadvisor
Gateway to the Picos de Europa: Unforgettable Mountain Adventures
From Cangas de Onís, the mountains rise quickly and promise days packed with hikes, wild landscapes, and photo ops you’ll want to show everyone back home.
I found some new favorites among the region’s epic trails, high viewpoints, and glacial lakes that stick with me long after leaving Asturias.
Must-Do Hiking Trails
Leaving from Cangas de Onís, I found access to world-class hiking routes refreshingly easy.
The Covadonga Lakes Trail quickly became a personal highlight.
It starts at the iconic shrine and winds up lush slopes toward Lago Enol and Lago Ercina, both sparkling glacial lakes.
Ruta del Cares is another must.
This route, known as the “Divine Gorge,” carves deep between limestone cliffs.
The 12-kilometer trek from Poncebos to Caín is thrilling, with sheer drops and bridge crossings that really pull you into the heart of the Picos de Europa National Park.
For a shorter adventure, the Ruta de los Lagos (Lakes Trail) gave me panoramic views with less effort.
The path loops around the Covadonga Lakes and works for families or anyone who wants a gentler walk.
Each step brings new surprises, from alpine meadows to sudden mountain vistas.
Breathtaking Viewpoints and Photo Ops
Honestly, the viewpoints here make my camera work overtime.
The Mirador de Ordiales gives a sweeping lookout over the Western Massif’s peaks and valleys.
Getting there took a bit of a climb, but at the top, clouds drifted below my feet and the valleys glowed in the evening light.
Mirador de Entrelagos is another gem.
It’s nestled between Lago Enol and Lago Ercina, and gives a 360-degree view of two lakes, rolling pastures, and sheer rock faces.
Early mornings bring mist on the surface, making photos moody and beautiful.
Spotting the Basilica de Covadonga tucked in the mountains is a scene I’ll never forget.
Rosy stone against green hills in spring, or golden with autumn leaves—it’s a must-capture moment.
I’d bring extra memory cards, just in case.
Wildlife and Natural Wonders
I didn’t expect to see so much wildlife in the Picos.
Chamois and wild goats grazed on rocky slopes, and if I stayed quiet, I could spot them from the trails.
Birdwatchers will have a field day, especially with griffon vultures soaring high above the valleys.
The park also supports elusive brown bears and wolves, though I never got lucky there.
What sticks with me most is the chorus of cowbells from roaming herds—and seeing those famous Asturian cows up close.
Their horns and patterned coats almost feel like a symbol of this wild region.
Picos de Europa National Park is home to over 1,000 plant species.
I walked through meadows of orchids, wild alpine flowers, and mossy oak woods.
In spring and autumn, the changing colors make every hike feel brand new.
Glacial Lakes and Deep Gorges
The glacial lakes near Covadonga became a highlight of my trips from Cangas de Onís.
Lago Enol and Lago Ercina both sparkle with pure blue water.
Morning mist often lingers on the surface, adding a touch of magic as the sun rises over the peaks.
Below the high lakes, deep gorges like the legendary Garganta del Cares (Cares Gorge) cut through the mountain.
Walking the narrow path above the river, I’d peer down steep walls and listen to the rush of water far below.
The sheer scale of these gorges makes them unforgettable.
In autumn, the beech woods above the gorges turn gold and red, and spring brings wildflowers.
The mix of dramatic rock faces, ancient forests, and clear mountain water is just something I can’t stop admiring.
If you love dramatic scenery, you’ll never get bored here.
Image Source: Flickr
Quick Reference: Iconic Natural Spots
| Attraction | Type | Best Time | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| Covadonga Lakes | Glacial Lakes | Spring/Fall | Quiet mornings, crystal-clear water |
| Cares Gorge (Ruta del Cares) | Deep Gorge | Spring/Fall | Epic hiking, views, wildlife |
| Mirador de Ordiales | Viewpoint | Any | Mountain panorama, sunset is special |
| Lago Ercina | Lake/View | Spring | Misty mornings and wildflowers |
Essential Routes and Day Trips from Cangas de Onís
From Cangas de Onís, I found myself surrounded by some of Northern Spain’s best hikes, mountain drives, and charming villages.
This area is ideal for outdoor lovers and culture seekers, with direct access to the famous Ruta del Cares, scenic mountain towns, and neighboring regions with their own traditions and flavors.
Ruta del Cares: The Legendary Trek
Walking the Ruta del Cares was a highlight for me.
This 12-kilometer trail runs between Poncebos in Asturias and Caín in León.
The path hugs the Cares River through steep limestone gorges, with dramatic cliffs rising on both sides.
I suggest starting early for cooler temperatures and fewer crowds.
The route stays mostly flat but does have some narrow sections, so sturdy shoes are a must.
Along the way, I took in views of turquoise waters, stone bridges, and sometimes even mountain goats.
If you don’t want to hike both ways, you can arrange a shuttle or taxi at either end.
The trek works well for older kids and adults comfortable with a few hours of walking.
| Start Point | End Point | Distance | Difficulty |
|---|---|---|---|
| Poncebos | Caín | 12 km | Moderate |
Trips to Poncebos and Caín
A day trip to Poncebos? It’s way more than just a jumping-off point for the Cares Trail. The village sits tucked deep in a gorge, with forested peaks looming all around.
I usually grab a snack or a quick coffee here before heading out on the hike. The place just has that perfect pre-adventure vibe.
If you keep walking the trail all the way to Caín in León, you’ll notice the landscape shifts a bit. Suddenly, there are greener valleys and calm river views.
Caín feels even smaller, but honestly, that’s part of the charm. I like to stop for a picnic or a simple local lunch before heading back.
Getting from Cangas de Onís to these trailheads is pretty simple. If you drive, it takes about 40 minutes to reach Poncebos.
Not a fan of driving? Local taxis run the route too.
Highlights:
- Poncebos: Trailhead, small cafes, mountain views
- Caín: End of the trail, quiet village, great for resting
Discovering Nearby Regions
Basing myself in Cangas de Onís made it super easy to explore Asturias and beyond. Head west and you’ll hit Galicia, where seaside villages serve up fresh seafood and the beaches feel wild and windswept.
A few hours east, I found myself wandering through Cantabria—those medieval towns like Santillana del Mar are like stepping into a storybook.
Drive south and you reach León, a city that mixes history with lively plazas and some seriously good local food. Perfect for a lazy afternoon.
On longer trips, I’d sometimes push on to the Basque Country. The coastline there is striking, and pintxos bars? Absolutely worth it.
Every region brings its own food, customs, and scenery. With Cangas de Onís as my home base, these day trips never felt rushed or stressful.
Practical Guide: Getting There, Staying, and Packing Tips
I always plan my trips with the little details in mind. Getting to Cangas de Onís is simple with several travel options.
You’ll find plenty of places to stay, from cozy hotels to local guesthouses. Packing smart just makes things smoother, trust me.
How to Reach Cangas de Onís
When I land in northern Spain, I usually pick between Asturias Airport (about 110 km away) or Santander Airport (about 120 km). Both get direct flights from several European cities.
After landing, I grab a rental car. Honestly, it’s the best way to explore up here.
The drive from Santander to Cangas de Onís takes around an hour and a half. Oviedo, the capital of Asturias, sits only about an hour away by car.
You can use public transport, but it’s not always straightforward. Buses leave from both Oviedo and Santander, but they often require a transfer or two.
With my own car, I can stop at lakes, mountain viewpoints, or even local markets whenever I feel like it.
Where to Stay and Local Services
Cangas de Onís has plenty of choices for any budget. I’m a fan of the small pensions, hotels, and rural guesthouses (casas rurales).
Most places sit within walking distance of the famous Roman Bridge and the lively Sunday market.
The town is convenient, honestly. Supermarkets for snacks, outdoor shops for hiking boots or last-minute gear, and ATMs if you need cash.
Laundry services are a lifesaver after muddy hikes. Local restaurants serve Asturian classics, like fabada stew or cheese from nearby Covadonga.
If you’re camping, a few campsites just outside town offer great views of the Picos Mountains and easy access to the trails.
Packing Checklist for Spring/Autumn Adventures
Spring and autumn usually bring mild days and cool nights. I always recommend layering—trust me, it makes a big difference.
| Essentials | Recommended |
|---|---|
| Waterproof jacket | Map of hiking routes |
| Sturdy hiking boots | Sunglasses & sun protection |
| Backpack (20-30L) | Light gloves/beanie |
| Refillable water bottle | Camera or binoculars |
| Comfortable clothes | Basic first aid kit |
Mountain weather can flip in an instant. I like to keep a sun hat, sunscreen, and extra socks tucked in my bag, just in case.
If you’re hiking up to the Covadonga Lakes or tackling the peaks, consider bringing a compact tent and sleeping bag. That way, you can stay the night if you feel like it.
Sturdy shoes really matter here. Rocky paths and slippery trails pop up all the time, especially after a spring rain.
