Lakes of Covadonga

Lakes of Covadonga: My Encounter with Glacial Beauty and Sacred Legends High in the Picos de Europa

Tucked high in the heart of Spain’s Picos de Europa National Park, the Lakes of Covadonga honestly aren’t like anywhere else I’ve been. These glacial lakes mix jaw-dropping scenery with old Asturian legends, making them one of Spain’s must-see spots. They’re just over 20 kilometers from Cangas de Onís, and the mountain air feels sharp and fresh, almost as if it carries whispers of ancient battles and miracles that shaped this corner of Asturias.

Lakes of Covadonga
Lakes of Covadonga

Every time I wandered along those winding paths, I got these wide-open views of blue lakes hugged by rugged peaks. It’s not just a dream for hikers or photographers—Covadonga somehow feels peaceful and powerful at the same time. I picked up a few tips along the way, like which months are best and how to spot local wildlife.

If you’re curious about hidden gems in Spain or just want to see where nature and legend meet in Asturias, the Lakes of Covadonga should be on your radar.

The Awe-Inspiring Setting: Lakes of Covadonga and the Picos de Europa

High in Spain’s northern mountains, the Lakes of Covadonga sit in a landscape shaped by ancient glaciers. The scenery—wild, green, and dramatic—draws you in with breathtaking beauty and endless chances for adventure.

Geological Origins and Formation

Thousands of years ago, massive glaciers crawled through the Picos de Europa and carved out deep valleys. They left behind natural basins that slowly filled with water.

Now, the lakes—Enol and Ercina—are classic examples of glacial lakes. Their waters come from melted snow and rain. On calm days, I noticed the surface reflected the peaks almost perfectly.

Geologists point out that the limestone mountains around the lakes create those sharp cliffs and sudden drops. The ground is scattered with odd rock shapes and pockets, so every hike turns into a mini geology lesson.

Picos de Europa
Picos de Europa

Breathtaking Landscapes and Scenic Vistas

Every path around the lakes surprised me with new sights: tall, jagged summits, wide green meadows, and white clouds drifting between the mountaintops. The air felt incredibly clear, and I could hear cowbells ringing in the distance.

Several viewpoints are easy to reach on foot or by bike. I really liked the high ground near Ercina Lake, where both lakes shimmered below and old shepherds’ huts dotted the hills.

Trails range from gentle strolls to steeper climbs. I met other travelers—some with big backpacks, some just snapping photos. It’s easy to lose track of time just watching clouds move over the slopes.

Iconic Peaks and Glacial Waters

The Picos de Europa peaks tower over everything. Peña Santa and Torre de Cerredo steal the skyline, creating a dramatic backdrop for the lakes. Early morning sunlight hits the snowy tops, and suddenly everything glows gold.

Enol and Ercina might be small, but they’re striking. The water is so clear—and cold, even in late spring. Wildflowers line the edges, and sometimes herds of cattle wander in for a drink. It’s pure Asturias.

If you like walking or biking, the trails around the lakes offer plenty of adventure. I found both peace and excitement exploring this wild part of Spain.

Peña Santa
Peña Santa

Legends that Shape the Spirit: Covadonga’s Sacred Mystique

Covadonga blends glacial beauty with deep Spanish history. Tales of battles, faith, and living traditions have turned this mountain sanctuary into a crossroads of myth and devotion.

Historical Significance in Spanish Lore

Standing by the lakes, I felt Covadonga’s weight in Spanish history. This is where the Christian Reconquest, or Reconquista, began against Moorish rule in the Middle Ages. In the 8th century, Don Pelayo—an Asturian noble—led a small Christian force to victory at the Battle of Covadonga.

That victory became a symbol of hope for Christian Spain. Historians trace the spark of national identity right back to these mountains. Monuments and plaques around Covadonga still honor Don Pelayo’s legacy, reminding everyone of resilience in the face of impossible odds.

Covadonga pops up in history lessons all over Spain and beyond. The battle and the myths that grew around it still shape the local culture.

Don Pelayo's monument
Don Pelayo’s monument

Sacred Legends and Religious Pilgrimage

Covadonga’s spiritual pull grew with legends of miracles and devotion to Mary. Local stories say Don Pelayo and his followers hid in a cave and prayed for help before their surprise victory. People believe the Virgin Mary answered, protecting them and changing the course of history.

This legend made Covadonga a sacred spot for Catholic pilgrims. The Holy Cave, now holding a statue of Our Lady of Covadonga, sits above a waterfall and draws worshippers and travelers. I stood there for a while, listening to the mix of rushing water and quiet prayers.

Every year, Marian feast days fill the area with devotion. Pilgrims climb to the cave, light candles, and offer thanks or hopes. The religious mystique of Covadonga runs deep in daily life across Asturias.

Commemoration and Local Celebrations

Covadonga bursts into life during festivals and commemorations. The biggest is the Feast of Our Lady of Covadonga on September 8th. Locals call it “La Santina,” and the day is full of traditions, from processions to folk music and food stalls.

During these celebrations, I watched the whole region come together to honor both sacred history and living heritage. People wore traditional Asturian dress, played bagpipes, and shared local dishes. Families brought flowers and joined prayers at the cave or the basilica.

These events aren’t just religious—they’re about community. Visitors are welcome, and it’s a great chance to see how Covadonga’s glacial landscape and legends tie into the identity of everyone who lives here.

Our Lady of Covadonga
Image Source: Wikimedia Commons

Experiencing Covadonga: Personal Journey Through Glacial Beauty

Walking along the shores of the Covadonga lakes gave me quiet moments for reflection and a real sense of awe. From peaceful walking trails to glimpses of wildlife, each step felt like its own adventure shaped by glaciers and mountains.

Memorable Hiking Trails and Walking Paths

I started early, leaving from the main entrance and following the marked path toward Lake Enol. The route is about 2 kilometers, with steady climbs and big views of the mountains. If you have a map, you’ll see paths branching off to Lake Ercina, which is just as beautiful.

Walking here wakes up your senses. The mountain air feels crisp, and wildflowers scent the breeze. I stopped now and then at lookouts, just to take it all in.

Tips for hikers:

  • Wear sturdy shoes; rocks can be slippery.
  • Bring a light jacket, since weather changes fast.
  • Pack water and snacks—shops are rare once you’re in the park.

The trails are well marked, so you don’t need to worry about getting lost. Whether you want a short walk or a longer trek, there’s something for everyone.

Lake Enol
Lake Enol

Encounters with Local Wildlife

One of my favorite moments was spotting cows grazing near the lake, their bells echoing across the water. Sheep wandered by the paths and sometimes stopped to watch me pass. Birdwatchers can spot vultures circling overhead or hear mountain songbirds calling.

I kept my distance and just snapped a few photos. These moments brought a sense of calm and helped me feel connected to the wildness of the Picos de Europa.

Common wildlife around Covadonga:

AnimalWhere to Spot ThemBest Time
Cows & sheepNear lakes and parkingAll day
VulturesSky over mountain ridgesMorning/Afternoon
Small birdsForest edges, pathsEarly morning

It’s best to move quietly and never feed wild animals.

Unforgettable Moments Beside the Lakes

I sat by Lake Enol in the early evening, watching sunlight dance on the water. The only sounds were distant cowbells and the wind in the grass. It’s easy to picture glaciers shaping these lakes thousands of years ago.

I wandered over to Lake Ercina and found a flat stone to rest on. Other visitors were nearby, some snapping photos, others just soaking up the view with friends or family. The water and mountains made every moment feel special.

Whether you’re alone or with others, the lakes offer a peaceful space for sightseeing and quiet thought—a highlight of any Covadonga trip.

Lake Ercina
Lake Ercina

Essential Travel Tips: Planning Your Adventure

Visiting the Lakes of Covadonga takes a bit of planning. Weather changes fast, mountain roads are narrow, and local food is worth seeking out.

Best Times to Visit and Weather Insights

After a few trips to the Picos de Europa, I found late spring (May-June) and early autumn (September-October) bring the best mix of mild weather and fewer crowds. The lakes sit over 1,000 meters up. In summer, days are warm but not hot, and mornings often start with mist over Enol and Ercina.

Winter brings snow, which can close trails or make them slippery. Rain is pretty common all year, so I always packed a waterproof jacket and sturdy boots. Early mornings mean fewer people, softer light, and more peace. Checking local forecasts before heading out saved me from a few wet surprises.

How to Get There: Transportation and Routes

Trips to the Lakes of Covadonga usually start in Cangas de Onís. I rented a car and drove the winding mountain road up to the lakes. During peak season, private cars can’t go up past a certain hour, so shuttle buses run from Cangas de Onís or the Covadonga Sanctuary parking lots. The buses are reliable and stop at key trailheads.

Cangas de Onís
Cangas de Onís

Signs on the mountain road can be tough to spot, especially in fog. GPS helps, but locals always pointed me the right way. If you’re coming from Oviedo or Santander, expect a scenic drive of about 90 minutes. Public transport is rare, so plan ahead for car rentals or shuttle times.

Where to Stay: Accommodation Choices

I found everything from cozy casas rurales (rural guesthouses) to family-run pensions in Cangas de Onís. Staying in Covadonga village gave me a head start for morning hikes. For something special, a few historic hotels around the Sanctuary offer comfort and mountain views, but they fill up fast in peak season.

Here’s a quick table of stay options I checked out:

TypeBest ForNotes
Rural GuesthouseQuiet and local charmGreat breakfasts
HotelComfort, servicesBook early in summer
HostelBudget travelersSocial atmosphere

Booking ahead is smartest from June to September, since rooms go fast. Small shops in town sell snacks, cheese, and Asturian cider—perfect for a picnic.

Local Gastronomy: Food, Wine, and Tapas

Meals in Asturias really stand out. I can’t get enough of the local fabada—that rich, comforting bean stew.

Hearty cheeses like Cabrales and crusty bread from tiny village bakeries make every meal feel special. Tapas bars tempt you with tortilla española, spicy chorizo, and anchovies.

Wine lists usually feature crisp whites, but cider steals the show here. Locals love pouring sidra from way up high, splashing a little into everyone’s glass.

One day for lunch, I ducked into a rustic tavern near the lakes and they served up a paella loaded with seafood. It’s still stuck in my memory.

In summer, nothing beats a bowl of chilled gazpacho. Evenings bring out glasses of local red wine, a plate of tapas, and laughter with new friends.

Before heading home, I always shop for hand-carved wood souvenirs and a chunk of cheese. It’s impossible not to.

gazpacho
Gazpacho

Beyond Covadonga: Exploring Northern Spain’s Vibrant Culture

Northern Spain brims with culture, food, and a certain excitement you can’t fake. Every city and region has its own personality—wild festivals, bold art, and nightlife that doesn’t quit.

Nearby Cities: Oviedo, Bilbao, and Their Attractions

After hiking around those peaceful lakes, I wandered into Oviedo. The old town charmed me right away, and the Catedral de San Salvador really impresses in person.

Plazas and cafes buzz with energy. Just walking around, you feel it. I tried the local cider—yep, poured from high above—and dove into stews packed with Asturian beans.

Next up: Bilbao. The Guggenheim Museum is the big draw, all shiny curves and wild shapes. It’s hard not to stare.

Bilbao feels modern but still welcoming. The Nervión River twists through the city, and bridges crisscross the banks. I grabbed pintxos—tiny snacks—in lively bars, then wandered the old quarter, soaking in that Basque vibe.

Some travelers use these cities to launch trips to Madrid or Barcelona. Honestly, I think northern Spain holds its own. Every stop surprised me with a new take on Spanish life.

Guggenheim Museum
Guggenheim Museum

Art, Architecture, and Heritage Sites

Art and architecture keep catching your eye up north. In Oviedo, I found myself wandering among stone pre-Romanesque churches on green hills.

These ancient buildings tell Asturias’s story through their carvings and arched windows. It’s easy to get lost in the details.

Bilbao draws crowds with the bold, gleaming Guggenheim Museum. Frank Gehry’s futuristic design is almost as famous as the art inside.

All over the city, street art, sculptures, and classic buildings compete for your attention. It’s a lot to take in.

If you love cultural heritage, you’ll stumble across medieval cathedrals, ancient city walls, and museums around every corner. There’s always something new.

I could’ve spent days just poking around the sites and still missed plenty.

Regional Festivals and Nightlife

Festivals up here really deliver on local color. I joined a summer fiesta in Oviedo—music, parades, fireworks lighting up the sky.

During events like Semana Grande in Bilbao, the whole town erupts. There’s a week of concerts, games, and street food everywhere.

At night, the cities wake up even more. In Bilbao, I slipped into taverns bursting with laughter and music.

Young people hang out late, especially on weekends. Whether you’re sipping cider in Asturias or dancing in a Basque club, nightlife feels both friendly and a little wild.

Sure, Barcelona or Valencia might be famous for their clubs. But honestly, the more intimate, community vibe in northern Spain feels like its own kind of magic.

Bilbao
Bilbao

Travel Itineraries to Enhance Your Journey

Planning a trip here? Honestly, it’s a breeze with all the choices.

I kicked things off with two days in Oviedo. After that, I drove out to Covadonga and wandered around the Picos de Europa, soaking in the lakes and hiking trails.

Then, I spent a night in Bilbao. The city’s art scene and food—well, it’s hard not to be impressed.

I hopped on a quick train to San Sebastián. That coastal energy? You can really feel it.

Here’s a simple sample itinerary:

DayLocationHighlight
1OviedoOld town, cathedral, cider
2CovadongaLakes, hiking, sanctuary
3BilbaoGuggenheim, pintxos, nightlife
4San SebastiánBeaches, markets, tapas

Got extra days? Head south to Madrid, Granada, or Toledo. Or maybe go east to Valencia and the Balearic Islands—Ibiza or Mallorca, anyone?

Every spot brings something unique from Spain’s cultural mix. Even a short northern trip blends wild scenery with cities you won’t forget.

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About the author
Bella S.

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