Walking the ancient paths of St. Francis through Umbria wasn’t just a hiking trip—it became an unexpected journey into both history and my own heart. The rugged trails connecting Assisi to Rome follow the actual footsteps of this remarkable saint. They wind through olive groves, medieval villages, and peaceful valleys that inspired his deep love for nature. Following the Way of St. Francis offers a rare chance to experience an authentic spiritual journey that speaks to our modern desire to find deeper meaning and connection.
Last spring, I found myself drawn to this pilgrimage route after a particularly stressful year. The St. Francis’ Way offers different options—you can walk, cycle, or even travel on horseback between the important sites of Francis’s life and teachings. What struck me most was how the stunning Umbrian landscape itself became a kind of spiritual teacher, helping me slow down and notice the small wonders that Francis himself might have paused to appreciate.
The path connects numerous spiritual places that mark Francis’s life and work, creating a journey that nurtures both body and spirit. As I walked the trail to Assisi, the golden light on ancient stone walls and the simplicity of these sacred spaces helped me understand why pilgrims have been drawn to this route for centuries. The locals I met along the way showed the same warmth and hospitality that Francis must have encountered during his own journeys through this timeless region.
The Call of St. Francis: Embracing a Pilgrim’s Heart
The spiritual magnetism of St. Francis pulled me toward Umbria with an irresistible force. His connection to nature and commitment to simplicity sparked something deep in my soul that I couldn’t ignore.
Awakening My Inner Pilgrim
My journey along the Via di Francesco began not when I first stepped onto Italian soil, but months earlier when I stumbled upon a book about Francis’s life. Something in his radical rejection of wealth and ego spoke to me. I felt a stirring I hadn’t experienced before.
In our busy modern world, the call to pilgrimage often comes as a whisper rather than a shout. For me, it arrived during a difficult time when I needed direction.
The Way of St. Francis isn’t just a hiking trail—it’s a path toward something deeper. Walking where Francis walked offers a chance to step away from daily distractions and find clarity.
Prayer became my companion even before departure. I found myself drawn to quiet moments of reflection, preparing my heart for what lay ahead.
Tales of St. Francis and His Message
Francis’s story is filled with dramatic moments that still resonate today. His public rejection of his father’s wealth—allegedly while stripped of clothing—represents the ultimate surrender of ego.
His miracles and connection to nature weren’t just spiritual oddities but demonstrations of a revolutionary worldview. Francis saw the divine in everything—birds, wolves, even the sun and moon were “brother” and “sister.”
The beloved patron saint of Italy established a legacy that permeates the spiritual places along the pilgrimage route. From La Verna in the north to Assisi and Rome in the south, his presence remains palpable.
What draws so many to Francis is his radical authenticity. He didn’t just talk about faith—he lived it completely, embracing poverty and serving others with genuine love.
Mapping the Journey: Umbria’s Sacred Pathways
Umbria’s sacred paths create a network of spiritual routes that connect the most significant places in St. Francis’s life. These ancient trails wind through olive groves, medieval villages, and peaceful forests where the saint once walked.
Assisi: The Spiritual Epicenter
The heart of my pilgrimage journey began in Assisi, the birthplace of St. Francis. This hillside town radiates spiritual energy from every cobblestone and ancient wall. I found myself drawn to the Basilica of St. Francis with its remarkable frescoes depicting the saint’s life.
Walking through Assisi’s narrow streets, I discovered hidden corners where Francis prayed and preached. The Porziuncola chapel inside Santa Maria degli Angeli basilica left me speechless – this tiny church was where Francis founded his order.
The town offers several circular routes that connect important Franciscan sites. I particularly enjoyed the path to Eremo delle Carceri, a secluded hermitage where Francis retreated for prayer.
The Way of St. Francis: Charting the Route
The Way of St. Francis spans approximately 200 kilometers through Umbria, connecting places that bear witness to the saint’s life and teachings. This pilgrimage route can be traveled on foot, by bicycle, or even horseback.
I followed the path from Assisi toward Rome, passing through charming villages like Spello, Foligno, and Spoleto. Each location holds its own Franciscan significance and natural beauty.
The route is well-marked with distinctive yellow and blue signage. Maps from the Umbria Tourism office proved invaluable during my journey.
What struck me most was how the path embodies Francis’s message of love for nature. Walking through valleys, forests, and alongside rivers, I felt connected to his reverence for all living things.
Holy Guidance: GPS Tracks and Pilgrimage Tips
Modern technology has made this ancient pilgrimage more accessible. I downloaded GPS tracks of the official route before starting my journey, which proved extremely helpful in remote areas.
Several apps and websites offer detailed stage information, including difficulty levels, elevation profiles, and estimated walking times. The official Via di Francesco website provides downloadable maps and accommodation options.
For the best experience:
- Travel in spring or fall to avoid summer heat
- Break the journey into manageable stages of 15-25 km per day
- Carry a pilgrim credential to collect stamps along the way
- Pack light but include good hiking shoes and rain protection
Local tourist offices in Umbrian towns offer pilgrim information and sometimes special pilgrim rates at hostels. I found locals incredibly welcoming to those walking in Francis’s footsteps.
Sanctuaries and Solitude: Where Nature Meets Divine
The Umbrian countryside offers sacred spaces where spiritual seekers can connect with both nature and the divine, just as St. Francis did centuries ago. These peaceful retreats nestled among hills and forests create perfect environments for contemplation.
Hermitages of Peace: Seeking Solitary Reflection
Walking through Umbria, I discovered hidden hermitages where time seems to stand still. These simple stone structures, often tucked into hillsides or forest clearings, offer a rare chance to experience solitude like St. Francis.
I spent a morning at a small hermitage near Assisi where only the sounds of birds and rustling leaves broke the silence. The simplicity struck me immediately – bare walls, wooden benches, and small windows framing the verdant landscape.
What surprised me most was how these places don’t demand religious devotion to appreciate. They offer everyone a chance to disconnect and reflect. Many hermitages welcome visitors for brief stays, though some require advance arrangements.
La Verna and Eremo delle Carceri: Contemplation Amidst Beauty
La Verna sanctuary perches dramatically on a mountainside where St. Francis received the stigmata. Walking its forest paths, I felt transported to another time. The massive stone complex blends harmoniously with the rugged landscape, creating a profound sense of peace.
Eremo delle Carceri, just outside Assisi, became my favorite retreat. This hermitage clings to Mount Subasio’s slopes where St. Francis often withdrew to pray. Tiny prayer cells carved into rock face outward to the sweeping valley below.
The ancient oak grove there holds special magic. Local tradition says St. Francis preached to birds in this very spot. I found a quiet bench beneath these trees and spent an hour watching light filter through leaves, understanding why he felt such connection here.
Living the Pilgrim Way: Hospitality and Humility
Walking the St. Francis Way taught me that true pilgrimage isn’t just about physical journeys but spiritual transformations through encounters with others. The people I met along this 500-kilometer route demonstrated the same generous spirit that Francis himself embodied centuries ago.
Homestays and Hearts Opened
The network of family-run accommodations along the Via di Francesco offered more than just a place to sleep. In a small stone house outside Gubbio, Maria welcomed me with homemade pasta and stories of pilgrims who had passed through her door for twenty years.
“We open our homes because Francis taught us that every stranger is Christ in disguise,” she told me while pouring local wine.
These homestays became sacred spaces where tired bodies recovered and meaningful connections formed. Fellow pilgrims shared their journeys over communal dinners, breaking bread together just as Francis would have done.
Many hosts refused payment beyond the minimum, insisting that hospitality wasn’t a business but a calling. Their generosity challenged my urban mindset of transactional relationships.
Lessons in Humility: Service and Simplicity
The path of St. Francis strips away pretenses. With only what I could carry on my back, I quickly learned the difference between wants and needs. My expensive hiking gear meant nothing compared to the kindness of strangers who helped me treat blisters.
Daily physical challenges broke down my ego. Struggling up steep Umbrian hills in pouring rain, I understood Francis’s teachings about suffering as a pathway to spiritual growth.
In Assisi, I volunteered at a pilgrim hostel, washing dishes and preparing beds. The simple joy of serving others without recognition became its own reward.
“The pilgrim way teaches us that we are all equal in our humanity,” explained Brother Paolo at La Verna sanctuary. “Francis found God by embracing lepers—those society rejected.”
This lesson continues to transform my daily life back home, where I now seek opportunities to serve rather than be served.
Enduring Spirits: The Influence of Assisi Through Time
Assisi’s spiritual energy continues to resonate through centuries, touching hearts far beyond its medieval walls. The legacy of St. Francis lives on in both organized religious communities and the countless individual seekers who walk these ancient paths.
The Franciscan Order’s Cultural Footprint
The Franciscan Order, founded by St. Francis in 1209, remains one of the most influential religious movements in history. I was amazed to learn how their humble beginnings in Assisi evolved into a global presence with thousands of friars across continents.
During my visit to the Basilica of St. Francis, I witnessed firsthand how Franciscan spirituality emphasizes simplicity, poverty, and care for creation. These values feel surprisingly modern despite their 800-year history.
St. Clare and the Poor Clares, the female branch of the Franciscan family, contributed significantly to this enduring legacy. Their original monastery still stands in Assisi, a testament to Clare’s devotion and spiritual leadership.
The Franciscans’ artistic patronage transformed European culture through centuries of commissioned artworks, architecture, and literature that continue to inspire travelers like me.
Modern Pilgrims: Continuity of Faith and Tradition
Walking the same paths that Francis trod eight centuries ago creates a powerful connection across time. I noticed diverse pilgrims—religious and secular alike—drawn to Assisi’s special atmosphere.
Many modern visitors seek ecological wisdom in Franciscan teachings. Our environmentally-conscious age resonates strongly with Francis’s love for nature and regard for all living things.
The Way of St. Francis (Via di Francesco) attracts thousands annually who journey from La Verna to Rome. I met fellow travelers from Japan, Brazil, and Australia, all seeking different forms of renewal.
Local traditions continue to honor Francis through festivals, processions, and daily rituals. The townspeople preserve these customs with genuine devotion rather than mere tourist attractions.
What struck me most was how Assisi transcends religious boundaries. People of various faiths—or no faith at all—find meaning in Francis’s message of peace, simplicity, and universal brotherhood.
